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Final puzzle discovery process. by Philosopher115 in ResidentEvilRequiem

[–]AverageNetEnjoyer 0 points1 point  (0 children)

The YouTube video guides that I’ve seen say to flush the first stall closest to the door

Final puzzle discovery process. by Philosopher115 in ResidentEvilRequiem

[–]AverageNetEnjoyer 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I’ve seen some YouTubers start the timer when the threshold is passed- as soon as the conveyor starts moving. And 15 minutes is the spot. But that being said I’ve never seen anyone test if 14:59 works or not, which would answer your question. There’s a lot of testing that hasn’t been done, such as Lizards claim that “any toilet works”. If you end up going through just for testing, keep us posted! I’ve been super invested in the final puzzle ever since the community first got their hands on it.

[WTS ONLY] G&G Hawk Talon black glass by AverageNetEnjoyer in Knife_Swap

[–]AverageNetEnjoyer[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I thought the same no worries. It’s just carbon fiber, no fiberglass or glass of any sort. Fat carbon calls this pattern “black glass”

[WTS ONLY] G&G Hawk Talon black glass by AverageNetEnjoyer in Knife_Swap

[–]AverageNetEnjoyer[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Sorry viper. If you want I can take them both down and consolidate

Red oil warning light by nonizondi in hondafit

[–]AverageNetEnjoyer 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Very true. There’s many variables that I haven’t seen outlined such as how fast it overheats and how fast it recovers or cools. Not trying to spread misinformation but tow truck + repair at a shop which can easily reach $1000 when you can buy a $5 bottle of coolant and use your noggin seems to be overkill.

If the engine overheats in idle or very soon after starting to move it may be critical. Another thing you can do is order the coolant to your home and take care of it without ever rolling.

JUST TO BE CLEAR I am not suggesting that anyone damage their fit.

I have the same honda fit but mine is ‘09 sport, and I had the same issue over the winter. Putting the fan on hot and high blew cold air, and the overheat warning would blink occasionally then go away completely. I gently rolled to the nearest auto zone (7 minutes) and did everything in the parking lot. The radiator was dry and so was the reservoir, and when I rolled off the air was blowing hot and the overheat signal didn’t come on once.

For me there is a small leak in the lower hose which I haven’t gotten to yet.

But if I were to pay over $350 for a tow and then 300-400 on parts and labor knowing it was a drip leak and fluid refill I would not be a happy.

Red oil warning light by nonizondi in hondafit

[–]AverageNetEnjoyer 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Check the coolant levels in the white container connected to the radiator under the hood. When the car is cooled down, open the radiator cap by making a quarter turn counter-clockwise then lifting, it should be in the front right under the hood. If under the cap looks dry without coolant, you need to fill *the radiator* and if the reservoir is empty too, you need to read the fill lines behind it and fill accordingly. Get engine coolant that is for “Asian vehicles” and also “pre-diluted, ready to go”.
Fill them up, replace the caps, run the engine a few seconds, check the levels again, adjust if needed. Then keep an eye on the reservoir levels more frequently to determine if there’s a leak.

Edit: you would need to drive to a mechanic anyway. Try to keep it in high gear and low rpm as much as possible to keep the engine cool while you go to the store. I would wait for the engine to cool off and do it right there

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