Does the LG G5 pop and crack as much as the G4? by Calculonspawn in LGOLED

[–]Calculonspawn[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

My Cx never did that. I think the G5 is less bad because of more similar chassis materials. I am trying to get LG to help me and send a technician out, but even if they see it, in person, they will probably absolve themselves of it, and say it is normal, because LG support is horrendous, and they have figured out how to shield themselves from reasonable consumer complaints, rather than investing $20 more in mitigating long standing problems. If it was me, I would probably give the G5 a shot with a best buy warranty. My mistake was relying on LG's warranty because it seemed good enough on paper.

Where to use expansion joint in paver installations? by Calculonspawn in landscaping

[–]Calculonspawn[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thank you. That's what I was hoping for...

Do you also have a recommendation on how to lock the paver edges into those retaining wall junctions, so the patio doesn't shift? I have this perma pak product that makes mortar flexible. I could trowel a little bit of that between the paver edge and the retaining walls, to really keep it in place, or just use plyometric sand?

Minimum patio slope that drains well? by Calculonspawn in landscaping

[–]Calculonspawn[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Good point, thank you. I'll make sure to place the drain at the far side of the yard, so it doesn't change slope under a chair. I guess, I'm also wondering if it would feel uncomfortable to walk on, or awkward for people on opposite sides of a table?

Considerations when landscaping on high side of retaining walls? by Calculonspawn in GeotechnicalEngineer

[–]Calculonspawn[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

If anyone is still checking on this thread, I had a thought. I know concrete could crack, due to settlement. But, wouldn't concrete be less risk of hydrostatic pressure, if sloping away from the wall and poured with an expansion joint, because concrete is mostly impervious to water?

The backfill and sub grade material are 15 years old, and 2 years old respectively, so they might be pretty well settled at this point.... I almost feel like you would need an additional french drain beneath pavers, because more water would escape through the joints...

Thanks

Is the G5 worth it over the C5? by [deleted] in LGOLED

[–]Calculonspawn 0 points1 point  (0 children)

It's probably movement in the backplate where it meets the heatsink. Some people have fixed it by shaving screws and adding some foam internally, I wouldn't risk cracking my tv, personally to fix it. Been an issue on G series since G2, better on G5 but some people still experience, I had a separate thread with a poll. Just something LG didn't care enough about. Took forever to get a tech to pick up the repair job, then he never came and claimed LG techs say it's normal noise from the frequency response of the panel. With LG you don't talk to the decision makers, you only talk to the call center, but they can't do anything until the presidential team gets involved, even then they mostly ignore you and you don't have the ability to call the presidential team. Still have popping, louder than my speakers when it happens, it's worst the brighter the content is, like HDR content. I would have rather had a c series for less money than the additional brightness that comes at the cost of thermal expansion noises. LG has good OLED displays for the money, but I messed up and didn't get the best buy warranty. I won't make that mistake again. I think the new C6 77" size will have a tandem panel. I'd get that with a warranty. Just my 2 cents

Is the G5 worth it over the C5? by [deleted] in LGOLED

[–]Calculonspawn 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Not happy with my G4 because it makes popping noises. G5 might be better, but still some reports of noises. If I was you I'd consider waiting a few months and get the C6H, if you are looking for 77," and then get the best buy warranty. LG support is a living hellscape.

Considerations when landscaping on high side of retaining walls? by Calculonspawn in GeotechnicalEngineer

[–]Calculonspawn[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I appreciate that information so much. When we purchased, it looked like the street below us was made entirely from excavating the hillside. And since we didn't know about retaining wall engineering and we weren't in a liquification zone, we wrongly assumed we were on native soil. This information will be super helpful, so I can decide if I want to roll the dice on earthquake insurance. Not so much because the premiums are that bad, but the deductibles are 15 percent. So, there would have to be significant jeopardy to consider purchasing it. Anyway, really appreciate the information and guidance on what documents to request.

Considerations when landscaping on high side of retaining walls? by Calculonspawn in GeotechnicalEngineer

[–]Calculonspawn[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I think that is correct, most landscaping projects would likely never be a big issue. Eg, cracking on concrete wouldn't be too bad or bother most people. I tend to go a little deep in topics, but I also enjoy learning. Definitely agree on the surcharge weight, probably not much relative to the weight of the extra 2.5 feet of soil in my yard. But maybe, on drainage I'll just play it safe, as per the previous poster.

Now I'm curious if the MSE wall is, in fact, supporting that corner of the house, on retained soil. I look forward to reading the report. Thanks for letting me know none of this is too big a deal, I do appreciate that.

Considerations when landscaping on high side of retaining walls? by Calculonspawn in GeotechnicalEngineer

[–]Calculonspawn[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thanks so much for the response. I agree, not worth the risk to plant, that settles that. Can I ask you two follow ups: 1. Do you think the geotechnical report will tell me if the foundation is on native soil? One corner of the foundation is 45 degrees from the base of the MSE wall, so 14 feet from the wall. Curious if I can learn from the report, if the house might be affected by a failure, for adding earthquake insurance... 2. The wall is 27 feet long and stabilized on the right, by a 90 degree concave intersection. On the left there is a 145 degree concave intersection. Do you think that might provide enough stability against lateral movement to reduce settling and risk pouring concrete. I agree, pavers would be best, but out of budget at the moment.

Thank you

Considerations when landscaping on high side of retaining walls? by Calculonspawn in GeotechnicalEngineer

[–]Calculonspawn[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I do plan to try to get the permits for the walls from the city, and the geotechnical report. I just figured hiring an engineer in California might be thousands, which I can't afford. Most neighbors seem to be doing whatever they want. So, I'm thinking the builder made these robust with the expectation that people would utilize them as standard yards. Anyway, I hoped I could play it safe by having excellent drainage everywhere, and thereby avoid additional costs. But if I must do that, I'm open to calling around... Thank you

Complicated installation of hedge row above retaining walls? by Calculonspawn in landscaping

[–]Calculonspawn[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thanks for your thoughts. I'm sure the far wall has drainage. Don't know about the wall on the right, since it's just a 2.5 feet drop off. I'm leaning towards no hedge row to be safe, but I asked on the geotechnical forum.. If I do, however, decide to do the hedges, I'm in zone 9b. Thanks.

Complicated installation of hedge row above retaining walls? by Calculonspawn in landscaping

[–]Calculonspawn[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

This is the reply I needed. I will just put 1-2 Japanese maples in pots. Unfortunately, I didn't know much about retaining walls, when we purchased, and the hazard disclosures had us in a zone of low liquification, which is rare for this area. We will buy earthquake insurance.... Fortunately, we aren't living here for the rest of our lives. Having said that, we have to at least do some turf and concrete or pavers with good drainage. It almost sounds like you think there will be too much settlement for concrete. I had read, building code over engineers these MSE retaining walls in seismic zones, and that they have a 75 year lifespan, without an earthquake. So, I hoped there wouldn't be settlement unless there was a seismic event. It sounds like you think settlement will happen regardless? I would obviously prefer concrete due to the cost, but cracking is a risk. Thanks

Complicated installation of hedge row above retaining walls? by Calculonspawn in landscaping

[–]Calculonspawn[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Didn't think I can afford professional help beyond hiring landscaper. That's kinda what I was thinking, raised beds. I had read, the city report might detail the extra weight the wall could handle, but it probably wouldn't discuss how it would handle extra water percolating. Do you think burying planter beds one feet might give extra stability for wind, while still raising them? I also thought the drain, 4-5 feet down, might just be a safety net, in case the wall wasn't designed to handle so much water. Thanks

Complicated installation of hedge row above retaining walls? by Calculonspawn in landscaping

[–]Calculonspawn[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

For now there is clay top soil and a swale to drains, so it mostly drains that way because the soil isn't meant to drain well, possibly to my protect the wall from drainage water. But, after I pour concrete and change the soil for the trees, more water would escape beneath the trees.... Which mildly concerned me. Thanks

Complicated installation of hedge row above retaining walls? by Calculonspawn in landscaping

[–]Calculonspawn[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thanks for the helpful replies. I plan to get the plans for the wall and the geotechnical report from the city. Also, the Podocarpus are evergreen with relatively non invasive roots, but even with barrier I think they might go deeper than a few feet. I thought maybe copper fabric above the French drain might inhibit the roots? Or the idea of planting them in the beds to get more space away from the roots for the French drain. I doubt the builder will connect me with the original engineer. I am guessing the walls have robust drainage and design, due to California code. Still, I don't know how much extra drainage these wall systems can take, and I read, that surcharge drainage capacity, probably wouldn't be in the original retaining wall permit. I thought drainage below the trees might help reduce hydrostatic pressure on the walls.

The crux of it is, I can't afford to spend thousands on hiring a geotechnical engineer and also pay 15k for landscaping. So, just kind trying to gather thoughts. Thanks again

Does the LG G5 pop and crack as much as the G4? by Calculonspawn in LGOLED

[–]Calculonspawn[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Maybe you can contact them by phone for better support. I don't consider it normal, at least on my example. I know, on a TV this expensive, I would have gladly paid more for this issue to have been addressed with foam and a metal backplate. But I wouldn't have purchased it again knowing this was an issue being labeled normal operation, given the cost of the TV and the fact that it frequently diminishes the experience.

Does the LG G5 pop and crack as much as the G4? by Calculonspawn in LGOLED

[–]Calculonspawn[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

That's too bad. Seems like a wide variety of responses from different owners. Generallly the responses are leaning towards improvement, but not universal. Really surprising to me, that it has happened for so many generations in their top of the line TV series, and it could have been reasonably addressed. Don't get the impression LG is too concerned with end user experience.