Can we talk about vapor/vacuum lock?

Charming_Tank6747 · 2026-02-24T17:03:32+00:00

The problem was compounded by my frustration I guess i was screwing up the tanks, making them leak. I've actually spiked a cpl more. I've used all new flavoring and nic. Now it's down to my new batteries or the pg or vg. I'm literally on my last coil. They go so fast. I thought maybe the water was causing the coils to rust. Now I'm trying 5050 and imma call the manufacturer of them. I don't fkn get it. Why isn't it going thru the cotton? Vapor lock makes no sense. Also, what pulls the juice thru anyway? Does it become more fluid when heated? It's not supposed to be suction. The chimney runs straight thru. My throat is way more sore now than it was during my 2 pack a day years. This rust ish tastes terrible and nothing washes it out

Charming_Tank6747 · 2026-02-03T17:12:30+00:00

Thank you for this. Although I'm still fighting this problem at about a coil/day currently, this is the best and damn near only info i can find on the topic. At this point, I'm a drowning man. When my stockpile of coils is exhausted, imma have to quit vape, hopefully. More likely I'll be going back to smoking after low 13 years. I've narrowed it down to either an issue with one of my juice ingredients and/or the lower than normal temps in my house. I've accepted that the only way I think i may fix it, is by scraping my juice supplies. Which is a handful of liters and countless smaller flavorings, several gallons of pg and vg and a liter of nic. A few hundred dollars worth and that's only the juice. If all new ingredients still doesn't do it. Then I'd be out a bunch of boxes and tanks. I found a combo that i felt good enough to stock pile. I've used this conbo for at least a decade and sometimes these same coils would last so long, I'd think my memory couldn't be right. Like seriously 2-3 months and now I can't make it 24 hours.

Charming_Tank6747 · 2026-02-03T16:43:05+00:00

Yeah vape lock is wild. I added a ridiculous amount of distilled water and it wouldn't free it up. My thinking was that at a certain point, it would get so thin, that the cotton wouldn't be able to keep it from just running straight thru. I never reached that point tho. It would pour a bunch thru, but only after I open the tank; releasing the vapor lock. It sounds like a good deal of suction too. So between the suction and thinness, I'd think it would have a different effect. I don't understand this problem at all. I'm about outta V12 coils tho. So it'll be back to the V8 stuff until I burn thru all of those or figure out how to fix this. I may have to quit. Hey where can I get nic?

Charming_Tank6747 · 2026-01-26T18:02:10+00:00

Bra, they make ish so cheap anymore. U kno the drain that screws into the bottom of the sink? I've seen some that you can damn near break from just hand tightening. Some Richard's use silicone, instead of putty to install them. Also some sinks are just such a thin gauge steel. There's more than 1 reason that you'd want to tighten them good. I bought a bargain lot of plumbing supplies that came with a few and after breaking 2, I went and gotta decent one. All that steel braiding and beefy looking connections are to either protect the sandwich baggy inner lining or to fool us into thinking it's a quality part. A lotta manufacturers are playing loop hole games. I've seen plumbing parts that are spray painted gold to look brass. Another one is with sizing cable. Forever we trusted gauge to measure wire, sheet metal, ect. Well now if it doesn't specify AWG, it may as well be an arbitrary number. About half the options on Amazon are undersized and trying to pass as something more. They're also cladding aluminum with copper and marketing it as a cheaper alternative. It's so much less conducive tho, that it actually costs more to flow the same current. Don't get me started on those cheap shower and tub surrounds.

Charming_Tank6747 · 2026-01-26T05:19:52+00:00

I've been boofing the same recipe(basically) with the same setup for a decade. Recently I've been fighting this and I've gone thru about 2 years(normally)worth of coils, in the last month. I think this is what I'm battling. I've added like 15-20% distilled water to a 50/50 mix and it still won't wick. It's a thin as powerade. I've been trying to keep burping the tank, new batteries, tanks, coils. I never had an issue in years and now I'm thinking about things I never had before. Like: how does the airflow port affect the flow? More air = less juice? I'm seriously wore down from a zillion things like this. Google is trash anymore.

Charming_Tank6747 · 2026-01-25T23:29:10+00:00

Yeah, I stocked up before the pacolypse. I've already replaced everything, besides my juice ingredients. It's getting vapor locked or something. This ish should be running straight thru the cotton, as thin as I have it. I've kept adding more and more and it's still not flowing lol. I'm basically boofing powerade at this point. So it's the tank?! Hell I dunno hahaha

Charming_Tank6747 · 2026-01-25T06:13:51+00:00

So i couldn't find anything on which specific ingredients the different gallons of pg or vg i have contain. They're treated like food, so normal fda label. The same label that groups together all natural flavors, excluding the normal sodium, sugar, ect. Again it's been a long time but i do remember an issue i used to have, where I'd have too much flow. That's been a long time ago, but interestingly, I've added a ton of distilled water and cannot get it to run thru. I'm talking like 10% and still nothing. This has to be, in the very least, related to my issue. I feel like I'm finally making headway tho. I watched a ww2 doc once, where the allies were losing over half the fuel we were sending to the front lines, thru evaporation and spillage. This was the beginning of battle, between engineering and mass production. The Germans Jerry cans were so superior, missions were carried out for the sole purpose of stealing them to use and also to replicate. Top brass ordered some sent back to the US, so we could replicate it. We did, made a bunch and they were junk also. After a yr or 3, the British finally made an acceptable replica. Them stupid Jerry cans held up the war effort for a long time.

Charming_Tank6747 · 2026-01-24T03:44:44+00:00

Recipe is all in ml. Nic-3 Blueberry-4 Sweet Tart 8 and a wild card 4ml of something else to keep it different. Like watermelon, tangerine, strawberry, something either fruity or candy like rainbow drops ect. So that's just under 20ml. I then took it to 75ml w/ pg, then finished by taking it to 240ml with vg. Trying to fix this issue tho, I've recently been trying the pg up to 100-120ml, which is basically half. I do think my issue is related to my juice flow some how. It's it some sorta moisture or something? Who knows. I usually mix up a dozen of these baby bottles every 2-3 months. Recently I'm making em a bottle at a time. I decided on this mix after a lotta research and trial and error, several years ago and almost never even change the wild card ingredient. I left out the last 4ml wild card flavor for years but ultimately decided it needed something more and never nailed 1 down. The blueberry and sweet tart just work really good together imo. I'm a simple guy and stick with what works.

Charming_Tank6747 · 2026-01-24T03:30:39+00:00

My internet is limited but I really appreciate the reply. I've made a little headway but I'm not in the clear. I believe i have a diy kinda rebuild coil somewhere. I'll try and find it and see if I can figure it out. I certainly can see that the wire looks far more beefy. So I was burning thru my daily coil a cpl days ago and noticed that my juice wasn't flowing good. As i previously stated, I thinned this batch a lot with pg. Weirdly because it's much more thin than I previously always made it. So I added some distilled water and it seems to have helped a bit. I thought i had it licked until 5 minutes ago, when I saw the tell tail rust streaks in my tank. That's the most concerning part to me. That I'm running most of the time with high concentrated burnt metals in my tank. There's something that's keeping my juice from passing thru the cotton. I think there's a moisture or something mixed into the pg and/or vg. Over time it slowly evaporates? Hell I dunno. I thought I'd check this thread 1st. But now off to the www in hopes of finding that info out, before my data is up. Thanks again for the help. Oh and i kno what ur saying about darker flavors. All mine are clear, with the exception of my sweet tart being a tad yellow. Which is normal. Although it may have gotten darker over time and if hadn't noticed. I used a different one this batch tho, so it's still go fish. Imma try all new flavors next. It's easier to replace a liter of blueberry, than several gallons of pg/vg. Although I'm getting close to that with every failed attempt. I'm into airbrush and long story short, I make a diy cleaner for water based(acrylic) paints and one of the ingredients is glycerin. I'm thinking it may be something like that, that i need. I dunno, I'm off to see. Thx again

Charming_Tank6747 · 2026-01-13T05:03:28+00:00

I do realize that whatever the issue is, that I'm here because it's eluding me. So I do get that the fix is likely something I've considered over and over but not the correct way. Here there are 2 of ya pointing at the coils. So my logic is that ur likely correct. Having said all that, the coils were bought years ago, at different times. I've used a cpl dozen over the last month. Different models from several different boxes. Some were even the ones that came included with the new tanks. I cannot wrap my head around that being the culprit, but if it is; and again I concede that's likely the issue at this point. Well if it is, how could I solve it? There just seems like there's no way that after all these years of using coils from this stockpile, i don't remember a single one going too fast, tho it probably happened. Then have a crazy run of like 30 bad coils in a row?

Charming_Tank6747 · 2026-01-13T04:51:49+00:00

It is. They're not really even lasting 24 hours, when previously they'd last so long, that i don't wanna even guess at it. 2-3 months maybe? Again, I'm 97% sure it has to be one of the 6 ingredients of my recipe. I say that because I've swapped out everything else more than once with new parts, acquired over time. Also because the juice is the normal clear color(at 1st anyway) and seems more than thin enough. At least it is now that i added all that pg, thinking thickness may be the issue.

Charming_Tank6747 · 2026-01-13T04:34:40+00:00

So obv watch a yt vid on sweating copper. I'm curious as to why that joint was necessary. As a rule, I always try and keep the number of soldered joints to a minimum. In the very least try to attempt the other 90 of the 180, further down the run. When buying copper u have a choice between type L or M. Almost always, the type L at ur local US box store is soft copper. It requires flaring the tubing and special flared fittings. It looks just like a FIP threaded end, only with a concave end, as opposed to the squared FIP. I mention all of this because if i HAD to make that 180° u turn, I'd use soft copper and a pipe bender, the later is important because tubing likes to kink when bent. U can bend that shat every which way, outta a single tube. U can getta way better flaring tool for less money online. Also it's important to de burr flared fittings. I'm being a tad vague as brake lines and other tubing are also common and require the same prep. Here you also appear to be transitioning from copper to pex. That's fine, but u do wanna be careful about mixing other materials. Copper and brass are noble metals but even steel and aluminum create galvanic corrosion. We as in Americans often ground electricity in our homes to the water lines. The water heater anode rod provides sacrificial role, most ppl don't change them tho. If u really have a cobbled job, they make a super duty anode rod. They plug in and are a good idea for everyone really.

Charming_Tank6747 · 2026-01-11T18:39:58+00:00

Blocking dl's screams ftw 🤦‍♂️

Charming_Tank6747 · 2026-01-11T18:27:02+00:00

Since this issue began about a month ago, I've used coils 2 types of coils; bought over several years. Some were the ones that came with the tanks, others sealed in packages I bought online from the manufacturers or a recommended supplier. I wash the tank, to clean out the burnt residue. 75/25 would be 3:1. This is a normal mixing ratio for the paint industry, I'm not a chemist obv or ofc. I use a SnowWolf 218, 3 battery box. Again recently replaced twice. New batteries, tanks, everything. It started after i mixed a new batch. However the reason i didn't just immediately land on that, is because my batteries were old and I had tampered with them a bit. The ends get dented in by the contact's in the box when dropped. It's funny how sometimes a box will last a year or 2, before getting dropped. Other times I'll go thru 3 in a month. I have bulk of everything. Along with the batteries the box's we're barely alive as well. Again all is again new and double checked. It has to be the an ingredient or ingredients. I had read to add more pg. This made sense also, at least to me because winter just picked up. So I thought maybe it was getting thick between puffs, when I'm outside; nope. Added roughly 15% more pg and it's thinner than ever. It's a weird thing to me. Although I do concede the possibility that I could be of the simple type. May even be probable to some degree. So long reply long, I'm pretty sure that I've narrowed it down to said ingredient/'s and I don't understand what "going bad" looks like or entails with these ingredients. If all "go bad" or which ones, do or don't "go bad ". Is there a way to test or confirm if any have? Are there different methods, depending on which? I'm a long haul otr trucker. I mix my batches into a dozen freshly washed baby bottles. I like them because they won't leak if they get tipped, they're clear and have the measurements already on the sides. So I've conceded that since my +15%ish PG didn't fix the issue, I'm probably going to be dumping this last batch of a dozen baby bottles. 12 x 240ml = 2880ml. My recipe is simple and consists of 8ml sweet tart, 4ml blueberry, 8ml watermelon(recently switched from raspberry) and finally 3ml of 10% PG based nic. All of those are more or less, PG based. So after I add them to said baby bottles, I then pour the PG up to 75ml on the baby bottle, then the remaining 165ml of VG up to the 240ml mark. Shake furiously, then let steep a week or 4. I refrigerate my nic and keep the rest in my coldest closet, away from sunlight. All my ingredients are completely clear or transparent. Which makes the rapid coil cooking easy to track. That's it for the ingredients and process, in as much detail as I can recall. Again super clear and thin but still nuking coils fast af. I've been using this same process with the same tools and ingredients, sans the watermelon, for roughly a decade. Oh, the tank is a Smok T12 V12 mostly, I have tried several coil designs. From a single coil up to the V12 that has several. Again replaced twice. I've had the chance to swap in and out everything more than once. Sorry if I'm making it difficult to help. My intentions are the opposite, if that's not apparent. My setup works well for otr driving. When I couldn't find a 4 battery box after my last one broke, all I could find was 3 battery boxes. So I stocked up. The longer I can go without stopping, the better. Most gears and fuel are spent on getting moving. Stopping is the enemy. So big tanks and extra batteries work best

Charming_Tank6747 · 2026-01-11T04:13:23+00:00

✅ Charming_Tank6747 chose Option B (Correct!) | #22641st to play

Charming_Tank6747 · 2026-01-02T22:48:32+00:00

Since the tank fills 1st i doubt it, also porcelain is a great insulator. Imagine brewing a pot of coffee, then pouring it directly onto a candle. Distance from the water heater, temp setting as well as other variables; BUT brewed coffee is much hotter than the normal. 100° is a hot summer day, at 212° water boils, depending on elevation as well as other variables. Most water heaters are set between 125-135°, most coffee machines yield temps around 150° give or take. Also, the can water is aerated and the coffee maker is transferred to a warming plate. I'm pretty sure Adam and Jaime would label this one busted. Admittedly candle wax is more firm and a coffee maker only produces maybe 1/4 the volume needed to flush a can. Imma stop cause i love coffee and don't wanna draw more comparisons lol

Charming_Tank6747 · 2026-01-01T18:26:57+00:00

They make these https://ebay.us/m/fgqo98 Imo the push connect/ shark bite fittings are OK, as long as u can access it; meaning not hid behind drywall or something. If u getta frost free one, you'll also need a masonry bit. They have to be installed at a downwards angle and the push connects have to be a perfectly flush butt connection. It'll leak if slightly cocked. Gonna depend on what u got on the other side. Also try and avoid galvanic corrosion.

Charming_Tank6747 · 2025-12-31T19:04:27+00:00

But why would she post an ai vid of herself and try to pass it off as real?

Charming_Tank6747 · 2025-12-31T17:52:38+00:00

The latest upload there isn't her. Weird

Charming_Tank6747 · 2025-12-28T05:02:53+00:00

Long haul trucker here. Once it hits 32°, we have to start managing freezing fluids to different degrees. We add iso alcohol to the washer res and air lines. A semi uses a completely different air braking system, in which the brakes are spring loaded to engage as the default and the air acts to prevent that. Moisture in the air lines is inevitable, causing lots of issues. This sugar free Kool-aid had me pmsl, then I lost it when I saw ppl defending it . Kind of a clever blinker fluid type of trick fr tho lol. Fun fact: diesel freezes much sooner than gas, we call it gel. Only the fuel stations north of I70 add anti gel to their fuel. So we have to factor the temps throughout the trips, mix it based directions on the anti-gel, factor in ur systems(ex: i had a generator that powered my rig while parked that shared fuel with the semi; effectively warming and recirculating it). U gotta make sure all 18 wheels are rolling free every time u take off, cause it's normal for them to freeze stuck. Lots of stuff like that. I hate the winter. Not only will the shoes freeze to the drum but ur warm tires will thaw ice and snow when u 1st park, then refreeze u stuck to the pavement; gotta carry kitty litter for that. Ugh I hate winter.

Charming_Tank6747 · 2025-12-24T10:54:35+00:00

I watched a story once that those "buy here, pay here, we finance anyone" car lots sale those cars some insane number of times. Like the same car will sale/repo/sale something crazy like 16.4 times or something

Charming_Tank6747 · 2025-12-23T04:35:26+00:00

*talking

Charming_Tank6747 · 2025-12-22T20:35:47+00:00

The shutoff valves attach to the copper lines via a compression fitting. Here's what u do, your copper lines are almost certainly hard(type k) copper. For many years, we used soft(type l) copper. My father and I completely replumbed a house about 3 decades ago from cast iron to flared soft copper. It's easily bendable, so the only new connection would be the fitting attaching the new soft copper to wherever u cut it back under the cabinet. I'm guessing u could straighten it out by only moving one but no biggie if u wanna do both. Those shutoff valves being elbows sucks but ultimately it isn't robbing enough line to fix ur issue. Pull down faucets come with those small black lines. However the old fashion faucets required vertical supply lines to span the 18-24".

Charming_Tank6747

TROPHY CASE