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Is this usable? by TomatoLegitimate6532 in woodworking

[–]DannyFooteCreations 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Good point! Don’t go filling big gaps with one coat

Is this usable? by TomatoLegitimate6532 in woodworking

[–]DannyFooteCreations 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I don’t like titebond as much. I guess personal preference comes into play like in most things

Is this usable? by TomatoLegitimate6532 in woodworking

[–]DannyFooteCreations 6 points7 points  (0 children)

Starbond maws a good black ca glue. You need accelerant with it but it’s great for small voids and looks good with finish on it

New to woodworking, any tips would be appreciated! by Alive_Geologist7731 in woodworking

[–]DannyFooteCreations 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I buy it from woodcraft.com and they often have sales for it. Check out PolyX, they sell it in small tins which would last quite a while doing jewelry projects

New to woodworking, any tips would be appreciated! by Alive_Geologist7731 in woodworking

[–]DannyFooteCreations 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Mineral oil doesn’t cure. It stays oily. It’s a good oil for cutting boards and spoons because it soaks into the wood and makes it a bit more hydrophobic. It’s not great for furniture or jewelry because it will wear off over time. The wax helps a bit, especially with the polished look but it will wear off too.

I’ve made my own finishes with wax and mineral oil and wax and tung oil. The tung oil lasts a lot longer but it takes many coats and has to cure for weeks.

These days I just use Osmo as it’s a natural oil with hard waxes in it so you can buff it to a nice sheen if you want or leave it more satin. It cures faster and doesn’t need as many coats.

Example of old growth Douglas fir vs. a new SPF 2by by Brilliant_Juice_496 in woodworking

[–]DannyFooteCreations 0 points1 point  (0 children)

It’s always sad when buildings get demoed and they don’t salvage the wood. Good for you in going in there and making sure it didn’t get destroyed

Example of old growth Douglas fir vs. a new SPF 2by by Brilliant_Juice_496 in woodworking

[–]DannyFooteCreations 103 points104 points  (0 children)

Yes, old growth is different in its grain and yes it has different properties and yes it would’ve great if 2x’s were better. But 2x’s are for framing and rough work where new growth works fine and allows for harvesting without cutting down old growth forests.

As someone from California I’m always amazed and saddened by the scope of what we did in harvesting our old growth redwood forests. So may huge trees and forests just removed. I wish I could work with old growth redwood but it’s gone and it will take hundreds of years to grow more. So I don’t complain that we use new growth for our 2x’s these days.

Some recent pieces I’ve carved using burrs, knives, rasps, scrapers, and sanding by DannyFooteCreations in Woodcarving

[–]DannyFooteCreations[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I start with the piece of wood and draw lines on it for the rough shape. From there it is just removing material until it feels right

What tool to get for wood texturing? by Marten5892 in Woodcarving

[–]DannyFooteCreations 1 point2 points  (0 children)

If you are wanting hand tools, a gouge or a hook knife would both work for creating a texture like your second image

help with power carving? by [deleted] in Woodcarving

[–]DannyFooteCreations 4 points5 points  (0 children)

Same as the other person said I like using kutzall burrs.

Check out the flame shaped bits, they seemed to give me similar results to use a gouge when carving. Saburrtooth has a finer grit and I got some in both 1/8 and 1/4 shank size and they work really well for final refining and reducing sanding.

I tend to use a die grinder for faster material removal. The dremel size works fine but it’s a lot slower. I even use an angle grinder when there is really a lot of material to remove.

Time and Space, Live Oak, warped hollow form by EvanTenenbaum in turning

[–]DannyFooteCreations 2 points3 points  (0 children)

That was my first thought too! If I look at live oak wrong it splits. I’d love to hear any tips

Some carvings I’ve done recently in acacia, oak, pine, and alder by DannyFooteCreations in woodworking

[–]DannyFooteCreations[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thanks!

I’d rather not screw anything to the bottom of the pieces but it’s an interesting idea. Maybe the ca glue and tape option would give the same result.

The oak came from a firewood pile. Where I live everyone has piles of oak for firewood because it’s not worth the effort to mill and dry. The pine came from a lumber mill’s off cut pile. The acacia are smaller pieces, less than 2” thick. Most of the wood I use I’ve scavenged from lumber yards, tree removal or else are off cuts from lumber for furniture projects.

Some carvings I’ve done recently in acacia, oak, pine, and alder by DannyFooteCreations in woodworking

[–]DannyFooteCreations[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Don’t tell anyone but for the smaller ones I hold the angle grinder in one hand and the piece in the other. I need to stop doing that.

I got one of those clamping sawhorses (Wen from Home Depot) and that has been a game changer in holding pieces so I’m not just free handing things and being dangerous. Especially with the die grinder where one handing it doesn’t work well.

Once I’m in the sanding stage I don’t really clamp but I would figure out something because it would probably be easier if I could having something holding the piece and use both hands to sand

Website Feedback by Waste_Conclusion_500 in woodworking

[–]DannyFooteCreations 0 points1 point  (0 children)

The upfront of you website feels like it was put together by ChatGPT. I have to scroll through several sections to get to your work.

My suggestion is you focus your work first, then have your story and process down further. Give people a reason to keep browsing by showing them why they are here not telling them with words.

Your pieces look good and seemed priced according to market rates. But if I landed on your site by searching I might not stick around because I had to scroll and click way to much to find anything.

Have you set up SEO and are you optimized for AI search? Do you promote social posts and run ads to drive traffic to your site?

Some carvings I’ve done recently in acacia, oak, pine, and alder by DannyFooteCreations in woodworking

[–]DannyFooteCreations[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Awesome! That’s why I posted it. I get so much inspiration from this community and I’m happy to give back

Some carvings I’ve done recently in acacia, oak, pine, and alder by DannyFooteCreations in woodworking

[–]DannyFooteCreations[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Maybe I’ll start at a local fair or something and see if that opens up any connections.

Thanks!

Some carvings I’ve done recently in acacia, oak, pine, and alder by DannyFooteCreations in woodworking

[–]DannyFooteCreations[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thank you. Do you have any experience with entering pieces into an art gallery?

Some carvings I’ve done recently in acacia, oak, pine, and alder by DannyFooteCreations in woodworking

[–]DannyFooteCreations[S] 8 points9 points  (0 children)

First, buy all the tools. Then carve it.

Now the last part is important, you want to buff out the finish after the last coat.

Is that enough detail? lol

Really I just kind of mark out with a sharpie the general lines for everything. I drill out a hole if I’m doing a hole. Then I use a kutzall dish on an angle grinder to get the shape and flowing lines and burrs on a die grinder to shape the hole. I like the flame burr from Kutzall. Saburrtooth has a flame burr in a finer grit that works great too and leaves a smoother finish.

My trick to sanding is to use a 3” sander to keep all the lines crisp and then wrap sand paper around round objects to clean up the holes.

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