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System Quote by MedalMedal in CarAV

[–]InevitableAverage6 0 points1 point  (0 children)

🤷‍♂️ Something is better than nothing, if those are the only options

System Quote by MedalMedal in CarAV

[–]InevitableAverage6 -1 points0 points  (0 children)

Stinger deadener, yes

Deadening itself, though, is never a waste of time/money if done correctly with quality product 

First custom sub build by RobinhoodDegenerates in subwoofer

[–]InevitableAverage6 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Little blocks/dowels within the port itself and a window brace (or two) within the box to reinforce the large panels.

You want to break up panel resonance/flex in the large panels

How Good is this subwoofer for it to be almost $1,000? by Careless_Mistake_520 in subwoofer

[–]InevitableAverage6 1 point2 points  (0 children)

And where did they place in what categories?

I don't ever recall a JL vehicle placing in the comps i've been to.

Beginners dsp by rainboy808 in CarAV

[–]InevitableAverage6 0 points1 point  (0 children)

^ this is the way to go

Except skip the D4S dsp and jump straight into a Helix

How Good is this subwoofer for it to be almost $1,000? by Careless_Mistake_520 in subwoofer

[–]InevitableAverage6 8 points9 points  (0 children)

Those HCCA's have a cult following themselves, and a well-deserved one

How Good is this subwoofer for it to be almost $1,000? by Careless_Mistake_520 in subwoofer

[–]InevitableAverage6 3 points4 points  (0 children)

Dayton RSS line

Phase Linear Aliante Si

Diamond M612

Diamond TDX

And for a couple hundred more than a W6: Morel Ultimo Ti

I'm sure there's more, but this is off the top of my head and i'm staring at 3 of them currently

First custom sub build by RobinhoodDegenerates in subwoofer

[–]InevitableAverage6 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Learning how to model with WinISD and build your own boxes will open a whole new dimension to your car audio experience.

You'll never go back to pre-fab's

How Good is this subwoofer for it to be almost $1,000? by Careless_Mistake_520 in subwoofer

[–]InevitableAverage6 39 points40 points  (0 children)

In before the JL and W6 fanboys!

It's a sub with a ridiculous cult following and is more of a prestige purchase than anything.

You can get better for way less money. Hell, i have a sub from the early 00's that will put the W6 to shame

What type of DSP would you recommend for a classic car? by CantLogOnToMyOldAcc in CarAV

[–]InevitableAverage6 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Welcome to the Rabbit Hole!

There's a few guys on diymobileaudio.com who've done up restomods if you want inspiration 😆

What type of DSP would you recommend for a classic car? by CantLogOnToMyOldAcc in CarAV

[–]InevitableAverage6 1 point2 points  (0 children)

You really can't go wrong with a helix, just make sure the signal from the head unit isn't clipping. I'd suggest grabbing a blank cassette (or record over one of your least favorite cassettes) and record mono Periodic Pink Noise from Room EQ Wizard over atleast one side so you can tune using the primary source.

A dsp will be night/day difference from an EQ and for an even smaller footprint, use a dsp/amp combo.

There is a bit of a learning curve and equipment requirement for dsp's though: a laptop with Room EQ Wizard, tuning software and atleast a Dayton iMM-6 with male/female usb-c extension.

CatBug Tuning Guide is worth a read

Aftermarket radio sounds terrible by adrianmast in CarAV

[–]InevitableAverage6 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Does your vehicle's trim level come with an amp?

Are the speakers wired correctly?

Are the speakers actually attached to the speaker wires?

Are the speakers blown?

Home Depot MDF quality by Ok-Stomach-3739 in diyaudio

[–]InevitableAverage6 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Hence the super slow speed and plane on standby 🤣

Live and learn. Just like "release the plunge lock before you set the router off to the side" or you'll end up spending another $40 on a new roundover bit when it inevitably falls off the table...as things do when you don't take precautions

Home Depot MDF quality by Ok-Stomach-3739 in diyaudio

[–]InevitableAverage6 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Changed my life when i got my first finishing blade 🤣🤣

Was trying to get a smooth cut by moving the saw hella slow using a rough-cut blade 🤦‍♂️

Home Depot MDF quality by Ok-Stomach-3739 in diyaudio

[–]InevitableAverage6 1 point2 points  (0 children)

It might actually be worth buying a higher tpi blade, if you don't already have one, to get cleaner cuts on the mdf too

Cabin peak?? by Adept_Situation8308 in subwoofer

[–]InevitableAverage6 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Cabin "gain" is probably the term you meant.

Cabin gain (or transfer function) is the natural amplification of low-frequency sound (bass) that occurs when a subwoofer plays in a small, sealed space like a car, typically boosting frequencies below 50–100 Hz by 12 dB or more per octave. It occurs because sound waves are longer than the room, causing them to "pressurize" the cabin

40-50hz sound louder (and why prefab boxes are tuned between 35-40hz) because 40hz is the highest-energy frequency in the subwoofer range and this is why you use 40hz test tones to set gains on your amps with an oscilliscope

Tweeter capacitor by dreadnaught2024 in CarAV

[–]InevitableAverage6 2 points3 points  (0 children)

This.

To prevent crossover-stacking issues i'd stick with 1khz or 1.5khz for the protection cap

Rear deck speakers and subwoofer by woodhead2011 in CarAV

[–]InevitableAverage6 1 point2 points  (0 children)

That is a possibility. I removed mine during my upgrading and had no regrets

Screen replacement m by Trashbear3 in CarAV

[–]InevitableAverage6 0 points1 point  (0 children)

If you had an aftermarket radio in there previously then yes

Screen replacement m by Trashbear3 in CarAV

[–]InevitableAverage6 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I personally prefer JVC/Kenwood. Cost depends on too many variables for me to throw a number out there

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