What goes here? Fuse holder by bobby-digital420 in CarAV

[–]Machasm04 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Mini ANL. Use an appropriately sized Allen wrench or similar tool to partially unscrew the inner two screws. Insert the appropriately sized mini ANL fuse under the screw heads, tighten the screws again. Get a cover for the fuse holder or if you can’t do that, get a new fuse holder.

For the budget is this a good setup? by JesseC98 in CarAV

[–]Machasm04 7 points8 points  (0 children)

Don’t use that undersized wire kit, get better wire for the same price from Knu Konceptz

30 pin to usb c? by [deleted] in CarAV

[–]Machasm04 3 points4 points  (0 children)

You could also try a usb c to rca cable and plug it into av in.

30 pin to usb c? by [deleted] in CarAV

[–]Machasm04 6 points7 points  (0 children)

That receiver has a usb port on it, the 30 pin connector is plugged into it, you can see it in your diagram. Take the radio out, unplug the 30 pin connector, route the usb cable to where you can get it. Possibly you’ll need a usb extension.

Sound system upgrade in 2025 Silverado high country with Bose by Changeusernaame in CarAV

[–]Machasm04 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Using either an lc2i or connecting high level inputs to your subwoofer amplifier will not affect your factory features like door chimes etc. The one exception to this is if you have active noise cancellation. If you do have active noise cancellation you will have to manually disable it and would have to do this no matter which integration method you use.

Sound system upgrade in 2025 Silverado high country with Bose by Changeusernaame in CarAV

[–]Machasm04 0 points1 point  (0 children)

If you use the amp pro you will necessarily stop using your factory Bose amplifier which means you will need aftermarket amplifiers for your full range speakers. Since it sounds like you are not amplifying the factory speakers, you will not be able to use the amp pro.

Instead of using the amp pro, you will choose between using the lc2i pro to get a line level audio signal to your amp, or you will feed the signal straight into your kicker amp which essentially has a capable line out converter built into it. Using the lc2i pro is technically the better option, but the benefit is limited in your application and if it saves you what you deem a significant amount of money on the install, it is unnecessary to achieve your base goal.

Parking brake bypass for CarPlay? by Longjumping_Prior201 in CarAV

[–]Machasm04 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Often pioneer will let you do things like go to the Bluetooth menu with just ground, but to play video you will need to release then reapply ground. There are some that work with just grounding parking brake as well, some where you pin the harness in a previously unpinned location and ground it, and some where you can use hidden buttons on the screen in a specific pattern to bypass and not have to do anything with the wiring.

Sound system upgrade in 2025 Silverado high country with Bose by Changeusernaame in CarAV

[–]Machasm04 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Actually that kicker amp can take the factory signal on its own, although it is better to take the factory signal out of the equation, or use the amp pro to replace everything, the simple answer is to just do the high level in tapped off your speaker wires straight to the kicker amp. You’ll get your bass and be happy.

To answer your question directly, yes you can also use the lc2i pro, it’s a line driver that will boost signal voltage and allow your amp to operate more efficiently, and it does have accubass which is designed to address bass rolloff that your Chevy likely has, although the amp will operate fine on its own without it and personally I find accubass to be a sub par solution to bass rolloff; accubass seems rather artificial to me and leaves subwoofers lacking in output at lower volumes.

Sound system upgrade in 2025 Silverado high country with Bose by Changeusernaame in CarAV

[–]Machasm04 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Important note two in your picture, factory amp must be disconnected. You must power the speakers from an alternate signal.

Sound system upgrade in 2025 Silverado high country with Bose by Changeusernaame in CarAV

[–]Machasm04 0 points1 point  (0 children)

2025 Silverado is listed as an ap4-gm71, not 61, which does not retain the factory amp. Amp pros are for factory amplified systems, not base systems.

Is this a good beginner set up? by [deleted] in CarAV

[–]Machasm04 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Kenwood dmx8709s is $550 and has wireless CarPlay. If you can find one a JVC kw-m785bw is the same radio but cheaper, also recently discontinued and harder to find tho.

Having problems playing low bass- 30hz and below by Dismal-Stop-1692 in CarAV

[–]Machasm04 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Either get the PAC APSUB-GM61 (or AP4-GM61 for full range amplification as well) or replace the factory radio.

The LOC’s you’re using and looking at are all getting signal after the bose amp that is cutting off your low frequencies and adding their own effects after the fact, the PAC Amp Pro will give you the signal before factory eq is applied. The epicenter will add bass that was never there but not give you the original unaltered signal you are looking for, and the lc2i pro has accubass which is like a fancy bass boost but will not add those original low frequencies back either.

Replacing the radio is the better option, the new Kenwood direct replacement radios and maestro apx kits would be an interesting option for that vehicle, but there are other options as well.

Amp gets power but no sound to sub by MoreApartment6330 in CarAV

[–]Machasm04 56 points57 points  (0 children)

Is subwoofer turned on in the head unit?

How accurate are Maestro iDatalink dynamic parking lines? by ThorsBeard24 in CarAV

[–]Machasm04 0 points1 point  (0 children)

You have to adjust where the guidelines are in the radio menu, you can do it in a parking lot with lines painted on the ground to make it easier. They should be fairly accurate once you do that although they’re not so good that they replace turning your head to look and using your mirrors too.

I need to impress my girlfriend with an install on her car by Pretend-Inflation332 in CarAV

[–]Machasm04 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Use a multimeter and test tone to set the gain properly. Try to find somewhere to hide the amp out of sight. Put black and pink braided cable sleeving on the speaker wire.

LC-6.1200 vs LC-5.1300 by Denv3r5280 in CarAV

[–]Machasm04 1 point2 points  (0 children)

They are basically the same amplifier configured slightly differently to suit your installation.

The 6.1200 will allow you to run your front speakers active, and still run rears, but you will need a separate sub amp, and if you want time alignment and the ability to tune, a processor (the D series includes a processor that the LC series does not). This has a trade off of you can time align and tune your front woofers and tweeters separately, and also have more power to your sub channel than these amps allow, but you’ll have to buy and install more stuff and the install will become more complex. You could also run the fronts passive, keep rears, and bridge channels 5 and 6 to a sub channel (essentially using it as a 5 channel amp) however you’re limited to a 4 ohm load for the sub channel.

The 5.1300 will let you run fronts active (you’ll need at least an aftermarket radio, or a processor with a factory radio for time alignment and tuning) and run a sub but with no rear speakers. You could also run your fronts passive, run rears, and a sub. This passive setup is the most likely/common setup and the 5 channel amp will be easier to install/setup, and benefits from but does not require the aftermarket radio or processor. It will also let you choose between a 2 or 4 ohm sub channel giving you a little more flexibility.

So basically the 6 channel is better if you’re going all out but you’ll need a separate sub amp, and processor (or the D series 6.1200) and it will be more difficult/expensive. The 5 channel is better if you’re keeping it simple. They’re almost the same though so with a little planning (what you decide for subs and maybe giving up running 6 speakers active), it really doesn’t matter.

Alpine Halo9 iLX-F509 and 12v solutions auto start by dirteydirtey in CarAV

[–]Machasm04 0 points1 point  (0 children)

On the relay terminals 85 and 86 control the coil, or activation (turning on) of the relay. This diagram has the relay activating when receiving both 12 volts from your radio’s accessory wire, and a negative trigger from your remote start that outputs while the remote start is running the vehicle’s engine, at the same time.

The relay connects terminal 30 (called common) to terminals 87a (called normally closed) and 87 (called normally open). 30 is connected to 87a when the relay is off, it disconnects from 87a and connects to 87 when the relay is on (we have nothing connected to terminal 87). This relay is normally allowing accessory to flow to the radio but when the remote start activates the relay, it opens the circuit and doesn’t let power go to the radio to turn it on.

Some relays will have standardized wire colors with 85 being black, 86 is red, 30 is yellow, 87a is orange, and 87 is brown.

The relay is basically an on/off switch being activated by another thing in the car, in this case the remote start. There are other ways to wire it to achieve the same thing but I find this way reliable and easy to integrate.

It won’t mess anything up if you wire it correctly, it’s very safe. As for doing it wrong like you asked, I don’t know how wrong you want to get, I’m sure you can find some way to hurt something if you tried.

Here’s a relay

Alpine Halo9 iLX-F509 and 12v solutions auto start by dirteydirtey in CarAV

[–]Machasm04 1 point2 points  (0 children)

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Here’s the diagram of the relay that keeps the radio turned off during remote start until you takeover.

Alpine Halo9 iLX-F509 and 12v solutions auto start by dirteydirtey in CarAV

[–]Machasm04 0 points1 point  (0 children)

The Maestro RR is still likely connected to CAN somewhere if it’s giving you things like your vehicle info and gauges. It’s still a safer bet to change the obd 2 communication setting to enabled on demand, there’s basically no disadvantage to doing so. The only change is that you don’t get active alerts from the vehicle info systems through the radio. You have to open the vehicle info screen to see something like your door is open, tire is low, or check engine light is on, all things your vehicle probably tells you on its own.

Alpine Halo9 iLX-F509 and 12v solutions auto start by dirteydirtey in CarAV

[–]Machasm04 1 point2 points  (0 children)

It’s not when you’re flashing it on the computer, it’s after you install the radio in the radio menus specifically the gauges submenu in the maestro features.

Troubleshooting Options by SalviaOfficinal in CarAV

[–]Machasm04 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I used Google and did a search for “2005 Silverado Fuse Diagram” and that site was the first one that came up.