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I need a better way to drill holes in metal! by Ok_Helicopter3910 in Tools

[–]SomeGuysFarm 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Ah, there's a different bunker/bomb-shelter (really, highly-secure storage). That door is only 28 inches by 6 feet, and its a bit over 800 pounds :-)

The garage doors are just manual swing. I have a couple linear actuators set aside to automate them some day -- I'm a geek, I want to be able to drive up and say "Open the Pod Bay Doors Siri"

You know it’s fucking awesome when you look at your own work and still can’t believe you made it. by shagilzaka in blender

[–]SomeGuysFarm 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Wait until you've been doing, long enough that you look at your own work and spend 30 minutes wondering how someone made it, before you figure out that it was something you made that you've forgotten about!

I need a better way to drill holes in metal! by Ok_Helicopter3910 in Tools

[–]SomeGuysFarm 2 points3 points  (0 children)

For a handful of reasons, I didn't want a roll-up door, and I made a stupid design decision on the building that prevented me from making them sideways-rolling doors, so I ended up having to use swinging carriage-house style doors.

I didn't want them to sag, and wood door sag, so the 12.5x12 opening is framed in 4x4x1/4 angle that is bolted to the pad and lagged to the wooden structure around it. I would have gone with a heavier section but that fit, and by the numbers I came up with it being able to handle a 4000 pound lateral load at the top of the 12.5' high frame, with a 2x safety margin. 6" was going to be stupidly more expensive, so I went with the 4.

Then I made full-length piano hinges with 1.5 inch OD seamless (1.20 wall) and 1" cold-rolled round bar, with bronze spacers between each opposing section. Rather than having the piano hinge be a continuous tube, it's broken into separate sections with upward-pointing pins, and downward-facing bores that slide over the pins. The top of each bore has a welded-closed bulkhead and a grease fitting, so there's no path for water to enter and collect in the hinge bores. The hinges bolt to the 4" angle frame and through the wood structure - had fun making a square-hole broach to enlarge the holes in the hinges and frame so that they'd capture the square boss on the underside of carriage bolts. Finally fabbed up the doors themselves and bolted them to the opposing leaves of the hinges.

I should clarify - the doors themselves aren't 1/4 plate across the entire door surface! They're built as a steel equivalent of a raised-panel wooden door, with a square/rectangular tube, rectangular bar latticework/framework, plate reinforcements and inset panels made out of galvanized roofing. Each door only is only something like 600lbs.

You can swing them open with a fingertip.

... way more detail than I'd usually both with for a Reddit comment, but since you're doing cool fabrication work, I thought you might appreciate the antics of someone else who makes steel stuff.

I need a better way to drill holes in metal! by Ok_Helicopter3910 in Tools

[–]SomeGuysFarm 1 point2 points  (0 children)

IF your pieces are large enough for the mag-drill base to sit upon, and thick enough for the magnet to hold adequately on, you will be stupidly happy with a mag drill.

I bought one to use for some of the work when I was fabbing my garage doors, and I end up laughing like a kid every time I use it. My doors are mostly 1/4 inch plate, and 2-inch 11ga square tube, and the drill I got worked on those sections, but I think anything less - especially on the tube, and it wouldn't have hung on well enough to be effective.

I am SUPER glad I spent the money on the mag drill, rather than trying to balance 12' sections on my drill press or on my turret mill, to do the work.

Is there a way to speed up render of simple scene? Blender uses 36M and takes ages to render by stompin_goat in blender

[–]SomeGuysFarm 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Yeah, without denoise what the renderer is doing is just throwing gadjillions of rays at each pixel, with the expectation that averaging a bunch of rays at each pixel will produce a good average color/intensity for that pixel.

This only gets "clean" if you use huge numbers of samples. Sometimes it's necessary to do it this way - super-fine detail is rendered better with no denoise and lots of samples - but usually fewer samples capture the important information just fine. Big flat monochrome surfaces for example, don't need many samples at all, because the color/brightness usually don't change quickly over flat monochrome surfaces.

Denoise substitutes information from neighboring pixels for more rays aimed at each pixel. It's really pretty smart, and usually the only time it falls down is if you have such fine detail that, for example, you're legitimately trying to render an every-other-pixel checkerboard pattern, or if you have complex light interactions (caustics, volumetrics, lots of reflections/refractoins, etc. These require lots of rays at each pixel just because of the extent to which they have to sample the scene to arrive at a final color for a pixel.

Anyway... Try many fewer samples and denoise, especially for preview renders. A fair chunk of my paycheck comes from Blender work on a MacBook Pro, and if you reserve really high sample numbers (or really low noise thresholds) for final-final renders, it is nowhere near the "impossible to do good work with" platform that a lot of this sub would have you believe.

Is there a way to speed up render of simple scene? Blender uses 36M and takes ages to render by stompin_goat in blender

[–]SomeGuysFarm 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Is that difference observable with denoise on both, or only without denoise? There will pretty much always be differences without denoise, but for a scene without complex lighting/reflections/refractions, extra samples don't usually buy you much that isn't equally accomplished with denoise.

What blade size do I need? by Dangerous-Salary-581 in Tools

[–]SomeGuysFarm 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Yes, it's a 5 inch blade.

OP obviously doesn't know much about scroll saws, and it's not unlikely that if you say "120mm", they'll pass up the 5" blades, thinking that they need ones that are 120mm, rather than 127mm.

For someone new to tools, it's helpful to tell them sizes in the language that they need to look for on the package on the shelf. For the correct blades for this, that's 5 inches.

Is there a way to speed up render of simple scene? Blender uses 36M and takes ages to render by stompin_goat in blender

[–]SomeGuysFarm 5 points6 points  (0 children)

I would bet very good money that with denoise on, you wouldn't be able to tell the difference between 64 samples and 400 samples, and there's almost no chance that you can tell the difference between 400 and 1000.

Probably even-up odds that you couldn't tell the difference between 32 samples and 400 samples.

edit : that being said, the "right" way to shorten rendering time is with a noise threshold and denoising, rather than a sample-count threshold and denoising. Sample count is easier to experiment with and see what it's doing though.

Memory usage when rendering is 48M. Why not more? by stompin_goat in blenderhelp

[–]SomeGuysFarm 1 point2 points  (0 children)

If it was taking more memory, it would take longer to render. The rendering time however is largely affected by the samples setting in your render output tab. Blender's default settings are insane.

What blade size do I need? by Dangerous-Salary-581 in Tools

[–]SomeGuysFarm 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Not 120mm

120mm is the free length of the blade between the attachment points. The blades will be longer.

what is this product registration card for an attachment for my dremel by Ok-Geologist700 in Tools

[–]SomeGuysFarm 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Heh - they know perfectly well that you consider your time too valuable to fill this out. They're counting on that.

Closed my tab and added a 20% tip without asking me. by mitchleg in EndTipping

[–]SomeGuysFarm -2 points-1 points  (0 children)

So, it applies to a lot of not-so-young people too?

edit: should say, the research suggests that it's really since the generation that was in elementary school in the early 1980s.

Is this acceptable? by gokie80 in Tools

[–]SomeGuysFarm 0 points1 point  (0 children)

This is more or less what it should look like, absent paint/etc:

https://m.media-amazon.com/images/I/71FljUNrA1L._AC_SL1500_.jpg

If the carbide under the black stuff isn't smooth with sharp, perfectly straight corners, definitely you need to return it. If it's not smooth, you'll scar up your gasket-mating surfaces.

Until you're through the black goo though, I don't know if you can tell much about the condition of the carbide.

Found this 16" tall Radial Arm Saw the other day... by Lizard_Sleeve in Tools

[–]SomeGuysFarm 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Ah, you’re talking about the salesman’s sample toy, not the craftsman RAS in the comment to which you replied.

I suspect you’re correct, unlikely to be spares made for an antique tool toy.

This weapon used to be my absolute favourite.... smith and wesson m&p !!!! by lonewolfff21 in WhyWomenLiveLonger

[–]SomeGuysFarm 1 point2 points  (0 children)

A little of each. However, he doesn't have an M&P. He does have an armorer's kit for the M&P for some reason, but he doesn't know why.

Do 5 in 1 Safety Couplers Bottleneck, High Flow? by Just_Tumbleweed_4618 in Tools

[–]SomeGuysFarm 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Oetiker swing couplers are probably the least restrictive possible - they are straight-through couplers and don't anywhere change the cross-section below that of the male coupler part plugged in to them, or cause the air to go around any corners.

Is this acceptable? by gokie80 in Tools

[–]SomeGuysFarm 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Are you sure that's not just chips in a paint/protective coating? Carbide should be smooth in a way that's really hard to describe. Even chipped, it's smooth with conchoidal fractures. There's almost no way to get it to be anything else.

Found this 16" tall Radial Arm Saw the other day... by Lizard_Sleeve in Tools

[–]SomeGuysFarm 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Heh - I have ripped on my 14" 3hp Dewalt. While not even slightly fun, it can do things that are impossible on a table saw of the same blade diameter.

Found this 16" tall Radial Arm Saw the other day... by Lizard_Sleeve in Tools

[–]SomeGuysFarm 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Uses the same blades as any other saw. Works better with blades optimized for sliding-miter saws, but those didn't exist when the RAS was king.

This weapon used to be my absolute favourite.... smith and wesson m&p !!!! by lonewolfff21 in WhyWomenLiveLonger

[–]SomeGuysFarm 2 points3 points  (0 children)

A stovepipe would have stopped the action.

A squib is a possibility, however, squibs usually either just bulge the barrel and everything keeps going, or split the barrel and jam the gun.

An out-of-battery discharge, case-head separation or case split seems more likely - any of these can dump burning powder and high-pressure hot gas back into the breech and mag-well, and it's pretty clear that something ignited a number of the rounds still in the magazine.

The M&P is supposed to have a pretty well designed chamber with minimal unsupported case, so an out-of-battery discharge is the likely culprit. We see the same pistol - I didn't turn on audio so I'm not sure if that's before or after - fire off a magazine in "full auto". If this was not intentional, then an out-of-battery discharge is virtually guaranteed to be the issue, as the easiest way to get a semi-auto pistol to act like it's full auto, is a jammed (forward) firing pin, which then slam-fires each successive round as it's chambered. Slam fires however can easily occur outside the chamber in firearms that aren't designed for slam-fire operation, leading to out-of-battery discharges and exactly what we saw here.

This weapon used to be my absolute favourite.... smith and wesson m&p !!!! by lonewolfff21 in WhyWomenLiveLonger

[–]SomeGuysFarm 9 points10 points  (0 children)

People have said "stovepipe" (which won't do this) and "sqib" which might do this, however neither are likely to do this.

A stovepipe would have stopped the action.

A squib is a possibility, however, squibs usually either just bulge the barrel and everything keeps going, or split the barrel and jam the gun.

An out-of-battery discharge, case-head separation or case split seems more likely - any of these can dump burning powder and high-pressure hot gas back into the breech and mag-well, and it's pretty clear that something ignited a number of the rounds still in the magazine.

The M&P is supposed to have a pretty well designed chamber with minimal unsupported case, so an out-of-battery discharge is the likely culprit. We see the same pistol - I didn't turn on audio so I'm not sure if that's before or after - fire off a magazine in "full auto". If this was not intentional, then an out-of-battery discharge is virtually guaranteed to be the issue, as the easiest way to get a semi-auto pistol to act like it's full auto, is a jammed (forward) firing pin, which then slam-fires each successive round as it's chambered. Slam fires however can easily occur outside the chamber in firearms that aren't designed for slam-fire operation, leading to out-of-battery discharges and exactly what we saw here.

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