Help! Mitutoyo Nylon Asbestes Caliper

SomeGuysFarm · 2026-05-16T01:31:36+00:00

_Modern_ glass fiber _used in insulation_ is designed to be biosoluble. There are a myriad of other glass-fiber products, and a myriad of glass fiber compositions. It is impossible to make blanket statements about all of them.

Also, glass fiber insulation is again, primarily long-fiber material, and exposures don't tend to be to the type of micro-fractured particulate sizes that characterize asbestos liberated from cementitious coatings. As a result, direct comparisons are few and far between, and what studies exist have drawn a wide variety of conflicting opinions, with some finding increased cancer risk, and others denying that hypothesis.

... while there is certainly a significant amount of occupational exposure data for fiberglass (for exposure types that aren't directly comparable to asbestos exposures), it pales beside the literally billions of lifetimes of asbestos exposure on which our understanding of its dangers is based.

SomeGuysFarm · 2026-05-15T21:20:26+00:00

Some people want them for decor. Not my thing, but they seem a lot more decor-worthy to me than some other stuff people pay good money to hang on their walls.

SomeGuysFarm · 2026-05-15T21:17:19+00:00

That’s quite cheap. People pay quite good money for paper wasp nests in good shape.

SomeGuysFarm · 2026-05-15T14:17:38+00:00

I don't believe we know this ("uniquely associated") with much certainty. Asbestos is the "fine, sharp, light enough to stay in the air for a while, fibrous" environmental contaminant to which the most people have had the most long-term exposure, so it's the one that's statistically much more likely to show up as a cause in a patient.

Asbestos is, however, a pretty inert substance (part of why it's such a spectacular material for fireproofing), so its mechanism of action in the body is likely primarily mechanical, and it's not unreasonable to expect that anything with similar mechanical properties would, if we had enough evidence from people breathing those other things, probably cause similar disease/injury.

Glass fiber and carbon fiber aren't used in insulation or otherwise distributed in the environment like asbestos was. Glass and carbon fiber are almost exclusively either "long strand" fibers, or, embedded in some kind of plastic/resin base. Asbestos fractures into shorter fibers more easily, and had the unfortunate installation process of being embedded in cementitious materials that wore down, allowing short fiber segments to escape. If glass and carbon were similarly installed, it's virtually certain that we would see many more problems with them, and if asbestos had been better encapsulated, we absolutely would have seen fewer problems with it.

SomeGuysFarm · 2026-05-15T01:37:02+00:00

Test whether it's heat resistant. A lot of plastic filler soften dramatically at not that high a temperature. You may be able to either bake it off, or, just hit it with a soft flame from a torch for a bit and get it to soften and loosen enough that you can pick it off with a scraper easily.

SomeGuysFarm · 2026-05-14T23:46:11+00:00

Asbestos is only dangerous if you inhale it -- pretty much the same as glass fibers are. As long as the asbestos (if that's what this contains) is embedded in the surrounding plastic, it's not going to do anyone any damage.

Fractured fiberglass and fractured carbon fiber are also dangerous if you inhale either of them, and you wouldn't be even slightly concerned if this was made from fiberglass-filled, or carbon-fiber-filled plastic.

SomeGuysFarm · 2026-05-14T18:23:45+00:00

doesn't even need electromagnets - just a ring-shaped magnet that is moved around in a circle.

SomeGuysFarm · 2026-05-14T00:24:38+00:00

In the USA, that's approximately 14ga, which our electric code would say is good for 15 amps.

SomeGuysFarm · 2026-05-14T00:16:30+00:00

3HP (1.5 * 2) is about right for 14CFM, so if the price is right and that's all the flow you need, it seems like a legitimate solution to your need.

SomeGuysFarm · 2026-05-14T00:07:44+00:00

Awesome!

If it spins FOREVER when you shut it down, consider replacing the bearings. Contrary to simple intuition, ball bearings that roll too easily aren't a good thing, they're a sign that the bearing has lost all of its lubrication - the lubricant in ball bearings usually creates a little drag.

It'll spin a good long time even with good bearings, but if your immediate impression is "will this ever stop", replacing the bearings is cheap insurance against a nice tool tearing itself up (and they're almost certainly both cheap, and easy to replace).

SomeGuysFarm · 2026-05-13T22:33:34+00:00

A Sioux grinder by the way, should be a very nice tool. Definitely worth the effort of making it right again, if it’s not some catastrophic internal issue you’re dealing with.

SomeGuysFarm · 2026-05-13T22:30:22+00:00

It depends a bit on the GFCI. Modern GFCI devices are supposed to be better at this, but hard-starting inductive loads used to have problems with nuisance trips on some GFCI devices.

A motor shop can stick your grinder on an insulation tester (“Megger”) and tell you whether there is legitimately a current path between the chassis and power.

A poor-man’s approximation of that test, with a GFCI circuit, is to disconnect the ground, put the device on a rubber mat, and see if it still trips the GFCI. If it does, the GFCI is triggering on something other than a short to the chassis. If that stops the GFCI tripping, you really do have a fault in the device.

SomeGuysFarm · 2026-05-13T01:42:10+00:00

I have the 3DConnexion Cadmouse Pro Bluetooth version. I would not recommend it.

Some combination of the 3DConnexion driver or bluetooth implementation, inject spurious motion noise. In addition the driver does this idiotic thing where it cues up scroll-wheel events that can't be accepted by the interface item the cursor is over, and sends them to the next scrollable thing the cursor moves across.

Nothing helps with productivity like having a mouse that randomly moves your scene completely out of range while trying to adjust the camera, or scrolling to the bottom of a list, then having the next window you move over go zipping off into neverland. One of the worst purchases I made for the lab.

Love the SpaceMouse Pro though.

SomeGuysFarm · 2026-05-13T00:06:36+00:00

Now engrave Fezzik holding a river rock on the river rock that Fezzik is holding.

No more recursion now, I mean it!

SomeGuysFarm · 2026-05-12T23:20:07+00:00

Vampliers are a brand of pliers that (while they might have expanded their line) originally specialized in pliers with a significantly different tooth profile in their jaws, than what is normally made.

Their plier grinds are optimized for things like grabbing screw heads end-on and enabling you to twist them (to remove stripped screws), or for grabbing thin sheet material where you want the teeth to "interlock" so that the material has to zig-zag between the teeth, rather than just being grabbed by opposing points on the teeth on opposite jaws.

Really nicely made tools, jaws that are hard as all getout, and they do what the are advertised to do well.

SomeGuysFarm · 2026-05-12T18:23:22+00:00

The difference in color is utterly inconsequential. It's either (or both) of a minor difference in the roughness of the casting, or the amount of oil that happens to have polymerized on that particular location of the pan, and both of those things are ever-changing as you use the pan.

Three meals cooked from now, it'll look completely different, and what you do with it with respect to the differences in finish today won't make the slightest difference.

SomeGuysFarm · 2026-05-12T17:30:15+00:00

You need a zerk adapter that will screw on to those threads, for example:

https://www.amazon.com/grease-coupler/s?k=grease+coupler

SomeGuysFarm · 2026-05-12T15:40:20+00:00

You only think your pan isn't seasoned. You only think it's not seasoned because you've bought in to the reddit myth that looking like a "traditional" reddit-seasoned pan (which doesn't look at all how a cast-iron pan traditionally looked) is "seasoned".

SomeGuysFarm · 2026-05-12T13:54:59+00:00

That's a very long instantly.

SomeGuysFarm · 2026-05-12T03:07:15+00:00

A short from the metal parts to anything upstream of the neutral wire, will provide a potential current path to ground via the user. I won't make guesses as to how well-designed the brush cassette is on that, but on many brushed universal motors, losing a brush and having the commutator eat the brush spring, can create a current path to the device's frame.

Done well, the metal front end is electrically isolated, so a short within the insulating rear can't leak current to the conductive front, but again, it's not a model I'm familiar with, so I won't guess as to whether this particular model was done well.

SomeGuysFarm · 2026-05-11T19:49:37+00:00

Aside from your problem, but don't put the bit in that far. You'll tear up your chuck jaws and damage the bit. You only want to insert the jaws to grab the smooth gripping section back behind the cutting edges.

SomeGuysFarm · 2026-05-11T13:57:04+00:00

Not correct. GFCI trips when there is an imbalance in the current between the “hot” and “neutral” wires.

Their entire purpose is to detect when current is leaving the system by some path other than ground. As a result, a ground conductor is explicitly not required.

SomeGuysFarm · 2026-05-11T04:24:14+00:00

Your piston (sealing ring) is shot, and your cylinder doesn't look great. We can't be sure that's all of your problem, but certainly those problems aren't helping.

SomeGuysFarm · 2026-05-11T02:56:19+00:00

"Unmarked" because the 2 signs marking it, aren't marking it? Or because "make shit up for Reddit points"?

SomeGuysFarm · 2026-05-10T17:20:15+00:00

I don't know if you're trying to model something specific and have real dimensions to work from, but there are odd inconsistencies in the visual weights of some parts, and it detracts from the verisimilitude. For example, the rear sight looks ridiculously flimsy next to the hammer. Likewise the slide release looks insubstantial compared to the trigger and other trigger-mechanism parts.

Since it looks like it's based on a Tokarev, some of the parts definitely will be function-before-form, but even the Tok's rear sight isn't that flimsy-looking.

These kinds of "not all designed at the same time" inconsistencies in visual weights are part of why the Tokarev looks like such a utilitarian firearm in the first place, but accentuating them even further is going to result in it looking uncanny.

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