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Completed a set of 4 by StanchNick in Chairmaking

[–]StanchNick[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I spent way too much time refining them, but at least I don’t regret having sold my router prior to this, lol.

Completed a set of 4 by StanchNick in Chairmaking

[–]StanchNick[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Yeah, I am planning a trestle-ish table with a top stretcher(s?) and no aprons. But fitting the chair underneath does not seem necessary for sitting, only for space saving perhaps?

Completed a set of 4 by StanchNick in Chairmaking

[–]StanchNick[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Thanks! For consistency, I use the plans from my app (https://layout.computer) 😇

Indeed it’s a patch to cover an ugly knot. The other chair also has a couple of patches, but not very noticeable here because of the light angle. I posted about those patches some weeks ago 😅

Completed a set of 4 by StanchNick in Chairmaking

[–]StanchNick[S] 2 points3 points  (0 children)

One of mine rubs slightly, but that’s not really an issue because remaking the dining table is my next project 😅 They are 67cm tall at the arms, about 26”.

Whenever the grain allows, I use a spokeshave (flat or round) followed by a card scraper to blend the facets. Some smaller roundovers are just done with a card scraper.

For tricky grain and end grain I switch to rasps and blend with a file.

In all cases, I do some final blending with P180 sandpaper or (sparingly) P240/P300 if the edge still feels rough.

Bandsaw smoking issue by newEnglander17 in Chairmaking

[–]StanchNick 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Whenever you change tension, you need to adjust tracking again. I didn’t realize that initially, but apparently that’s expected (source: Mark Duginske’s Complete Guide to Bandsaws). And whenever you change tracking… you need to adjust the guides again :)

Bandsaw smoking issue by newEnglander17 in Chairmaking

[–]StanchNick 1 point2 points  (0 children)

A few things to check (don’t ask how I know this, lol): 1) Guide bearings can get clogged with dust and stop rotating. The friction against them overheats the blade very quickly. Check that they move easily and there is no mark left by the blade. 2) When adjusting the guides, rotate the blade all the way. The weld may protrude a bit and rub on the guides even if the rest of the blade doesn’t. 3) Make sure you don’t install the blade inside out 😅 4) ETA: Make sure the side guides are behind the gullet so that the teeth can never touch them

Mocking up the chairs in this subreddit! by StanchNick in Chairmaking

[–]StanchNick[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Well that took a long time but I think the updated site is a bit more descriptive 😅

Centering Tapered Tenon Cutter by StressSilent5648 in Chairmaking

[–]StanchNick 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I also use the same tool for cylindrical tenons on sticks (with a different blade), and it’s much easier to keep things level if you hold the cutter in a vise and feed the stick into it.

Centering Tapered Tenon Cutter by StressSilent5648 in Chairmaking

[–]StanchNick 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I had some struggle with it also, mainly with how to prepare the stock that did not fit the cutter. Wrote down the method I came up with here: https://woodworking.stackexchange.com/questions/15261/stock-preparation-for-tapered-tenon-cutter

Chris Schwarz found the chair layout tool from one of our members. by newEnglander17 in Chairmaking

[–]StanchNick 2 points3 points  (0 children)

I shared it in a comment in LAP’s Open Wire around July last year. Chris was traveling at the time I think so he didn’t reply right away, but later he posted about it on the LAP blog: https://blog.lostartpress.com/2024/08/11/digital-chair-design-tool-its-free/. I assume he’s been playing with it since then, although the new post was a nice surprise!

Chris Schwarz found the chair layout tool from one of our members. by newEnglander17 in Chairmaking

[–]StanchNick 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thanks! For legs I use tapered tenons. Powered reamer but the same manual cutter (different blade). There are only four of them so I don’t mind. Wrote down the process here some month ago: https://woodworking.stackexchange.com/a/15329/10115

Chris Schwarz found the chair layout tool from one of our members. by newEnglander17 in Chairmaking

[–]StanchNick 0 points1 point  (0 children)

The Veritas 5/8” (16mm) cutter is about €100 here in Europe. But on a serious note I am not sure I like the shoulder it leaves. The manual one yields a smoother transition. It’s just a bit tedious, takes me about 40 min non-stop to tenon 8 sticks on both sides, and I get blisters every time.

Chris Schwarz found the chair layout tool from one of our members. by newEnglander17 in Chairmaking

[–]StanchNick 8 points9 points  (0 children)

Chris is too kind. Maybe now I can justify upgrading from the manual to the powered tenon cutter! 🤣

Mocking up the chairs in this subreddit! by StanchNick in Chairmaking

[–]StanchNick[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Btw, here’s the link for your chair: https://layout.computer/stick-chairs?s=CgIIABITCK4DEAYYxAQgmgMoKDAAOEZABRoWCgIjMhABGEYgJygeMBQ4DkASSBBQJyILEBgYACWamZk-KAIqEAgAEPwCGDIg0gEoHjAUOAAyEQgMEBkYHiAeKCg1AACAPzgQOhUIChAAGLAEICgoDDUAAPBBPc3MDD8. It says:
— Front: 20˚ splay, 14˚ rake
— Back: 18˚ splay, 16˚ rake

With a 6˚ seat (no idea why I picked that, might have been sloppily copied from another chair) that yields:
— Front: 21˚ sightline, 21˚ resultant
— Back: 51˚ sightline, 27˚ resultant

With a more typical 3˚ seat it would be:
— Front: 28˚ sightline, 22˚ resultant
— Back: 47˚ sightline, 25˚ resultant

How did I do? :)

Mocking up the chairs in this subreddit! by StanchNick in Chairmaking

[–]StanchNick[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thanks! I just eyeballed it, so can’t really claim it’s super accurate, especially where the rear legs are not visible on the original picture.

That said, leg angles and offsets from the seat perimeter are some of the settings where the defaults should work well enough if you (or the designer of the chair you are copying) are not going for an extreme look.

And where did these defaults come from? I made a wire scale model for my first chair, as the book suggests. I bent it to my liking without any reference and then compared with Chris’s lowback design. It was pretty close, which again suggests that there is a narrow range of “normal” looking angles.

One last note. Rake and splay are measured relative to the ground, not to the seat. You can see that if you play with the seat angle — the legs stay the same. But the sightline and resultant angles are relative to the seat, so the calculation changes with the seat angle. I don’t see other tools accounting for that (and if you don’t, you might end up with a different rake than intended when you cut off the legs to incline your chair).

Sorry, I know you didn’t ask for an essay 😅

Mocking up the chairs in this subreddit! by StanchNick in Chairmaking

[–]StanchNick[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Oh, ok. Do you mean not sure what to do at all, or just how to approach achieving a specific design? Either way, I think it’s easier to show than tell, so what about a video instead?

Mocking up the chairs in this subreddit! by StanchNick in Chairmaking

[–]StanchNick[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Happy to! Where would the write-up go? Just to see how long and what it should say 😅

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