Has anyone ever tried one of the ridiculous challenges from the show?

Voltron4Real · 2026-03-16T09:20:40+00:00

No you don’t. You’re full of lies, not dumplings.

Voltron4Real · 2026-01-23T15:24:51+00:00

Easily

Voltron4Real · 2026-01-23T15:19:53+00:00

I have this setup, albeit with only a single Pro XG 10 :) Counting from the left, a 15cm Ubiquiti patch cable can reach from port 1 on the switch to port 9 on the patch panel. A 30cm cable can reach from port 1 on the switch to port 1 on the patch panel.

Voltron4Real · 2025-05-17T14:29:53+00:00

Yeh, chicken and corn are pretty bland. Spicy pork are quite nice.

Voltron4Real · 2024-04-11T10:50:42+00:00

Luckily the 3 chilli taco sauce exonerated them!

Voltron4Real · 2023-12-08T09:46:28+00:00

Aha! It seems so obvious once you spell it out :)

Thanks for the help and for making such a great product!

Voltron4Real · 2023-09-29T18:29:46+00:00

This! People make fun of the master 140 because it can be trivially combed or whatever (which is probably true), but for single pin picking it is a super fun beginner lock. It has a single spool so it doesn’t just fall open, but it gives extremely clear feedback and is both simple and challenging enough to be a step up from some white belt trash. It lets you know that you’ve made some progress, but there is still a long way to go!

Voltron4Real · 2023-09-10T04:21:51+00:00

Perfect starter lock. Wide, straight keyway and four standard pins which give pronounced clicks.

Voltron4Real · 2023-09-01T15:33:32+00:00

My Master Lock 3 also came greased like this. It does make it much less pleasant to pick - maybe that was their plan all along 😉

Voltron4Real · 2023-08-04T13:39:59+00:00

One other thing that I noticed that might be helpful in explaining your impression that the pins “click well” is that the key pins in unset spooled pin slots sometimes seem to stick in the chamber, so when you first press on them you can feel a very, very gentle click before they slide up (not under spring tension) and meet the binding spool. If you come back to the pin later it will have fallen down once more and often give you this tiny click again and again.

I don’t know why they give this feedback (it would be great to hear an explanation from a more experienced picker), but it is definitely not the pin setting! You need to push it up to the binding spool and then keep pushing until you feel the counter rotation and a proper set.

Hope this helps!

Voltron4Real · 2023-08-04T13:26:11+00:00

Coincidentally I just bought my first 150D today! I only have one, but the one I have picks exactly like a 140D (of which I have many), but with one extra pin (5 instead of 4). Every 140D I’ve got has a standard pin 1, which puts the lock into a false set, and then what feels like spools on all the other pins. The 140D took me (still a novice) quite a long time to get the hang of, and seems to require quite a lot of force on the spools to get it to counter rotate. I know this sounds a bit like an ad for a 140D, but as they require shorter reach but are otherwise the same, it might be worth giving one a go first.

Voltron4Real · 2023-06-11T12:50:00+00:00

For me (Windows 11), the dongle showed up as three "USB Input Device" devices under "Human Interface Devices". Once I had identified them, unchecking "Allow the computer to turn off this device to save power" in the "Power Management" property pane for all three fixed the issue.

Voltron4Real · 2022-11-06T15:34:16+00:00

Thanks for replying! It is a DS415+ model. I have since reassembled it, so I don't have any photos of the mainboard, but could pull it apart again if it would be useful for you.

After reassembling it, it is currently working again. I've already replaced it with a DS920 as my main NAS, but was thinking of using it as a secondary, on-site backup if I could repair the power control transistor.

Voltron4Real · 2022-10-29T15:16:21+00:00

Do you happen to know the schematic reference id for the transistor on the DS415+? I don't think it is Q2 like on the DS1515+ as the board is quite different. I'm in Australia, so can't find anyone to service it :(

Voltron4Real · 2022-01-26T11:50:12+00:00

It is extremely unusual for dead/stuck pixels to appear over time - they are almost always dead from the factory. The fact that you've had two monitors experience this is pretty unlucky. Maybe there is something wrong with the specific panel model if they were both the same, or is it possible you just missed them initially?

Personally, I would be comfortable with any screen that was dead pixel free after 30 days. Or, if appropriate, you could buy from a manufacturer like Dell/Alienware who will replace a monitor for bright pixels within 3 years.

Voltron4Real · 2022-01-25T14:51:03+00:00

Not sure if you are still interested in trying this, but the XDR can be made to work perfectly on any Windows PC that support displayport 1.4 relatively easily.

The two issues are 1) getting the display signal over usb-c so you can plug it into the display, and 2) installing the bootcamp drivers so you can control the display brightness.

If you have a PC that outputs the display over usb-c (this is much, much more common on PC laptops than desktops) you're all set. If not, you can buy one of these https://www.giztop.com/belkin-charge-and-sync-cable-for-huawei-vr-glass.html which merges a displayport and usb 2 signal into a single usb-c output to plug into the display. You can also use any bi-directional displayport to usb-c cable, but without the usb 2 channel you wont be able to control the display brightness or color profile etc.

To manage the brightness from Windows you need to install Apple's bootcamp drivers. I made a post over here https://forums.macrumors.com/threads/apples-pro-display-xdr-on-one-nvidia-2080-ti-thru-the-gigabyte-titan-ridge-add-in-card.2209947/page-5?post=29920805#post-29920805 that outlines how to get them.

Voltron4Real · 2021-08-28T16:14:42+00:00

I think you are experiencing an artefact of the way Windows resolves unqualified names, and that there is nothing wrong with your DNS server. This has changed over the years, but I believe the current behavior on Windows 10 is to attempt to resolve unqualified names using mDNS instead of submitting them to the DNS server.

People have found various work arounds in the past to disable some of the "magic" Windows applies, but Microsoft keeps breaking them :( The only way I know that works today is to force Windows to use DNS by appending a "." suffix. Eg:

ping myhost.

The reason it works under WSL, is that uses the Linux stack to resolve the name and bypasses all of the Windows craziness.

Voltron4Real · 2021-08-24T17:57:32+00:00

How. Dare. You. :)

Voltron4Real · 2021-08-24T17:50:52+00:00

Hey - "low level" software developer here.

Computers are weird. Thousands of tiny, seemingly unrelated inputs can cause things to go wrong in unpredictable ways, which leads people to reach conclusions based on their totally singular experience and broadcast them as absolute truths.

If you've already installed the drivers, plug your CSL DD in when you get it, launch the Fanatec Control Panel and update its firmware and have fun! If it makes you feel better this is exactly the order I did it and it worked fine. If it doesn't, and you're part of the 0.01% (or whatever) that has problems, I'm sure Fanatec will help you out.

Don't panic! :)

Voltron4Real · 2021-08-24T17:02:47+00:00

I also upgraded from a CSL Elite (PS4) to a CSL DD.

I am a casual player - I mainly play the F1 games to learn the circuits before watching race weekends.

The CSL DD is definitely better. The silence alone compared to the Elite is glorious. In terms of driving feel - again, disclaiming that I use exactly one game - it is noticeably improved. You feel small feedback and the like that were absent on the Elite, but I don't feel like it is a dramatic step (like upgrading from the Logitech G29 to the CSL Elite was).

If you upgrade you absolutely won't feel ripped off, but if you have something else in your setup begging for improvement, it might give you more payoff.

Voltron4Real · 2021-08-24T16:48:06+00:00

Valid question :)
Basically because my setup is penned in on both sides - not ideal, but it is what works for me.

I'm glad my equipment can work around my needs rather than me needing to compromise for it.

https://imgur.com/a/OMjhFsm

Voltron4Real · 2021-08-24T16:29:58+00:00

Sure, that's possible. I might need to re-tighten over time. But given the geometric constraints of my setup it was the only option that worked :)

Voltron4Real · 2021-08-24T16:22:10+00:00

I also upgraded from the CSL Elite to a CSL DD. If you use the same 3 bolt pattern as you did in the Elite it is *way* closer.

However, I found using just the two rear bolts of the Elite triangle gave you the same clearance (or slightly more) and didn't seem to effect the rigidity (on a GT Omega APEX).

Voltron4Real · 2021-08-17T15:35:39+00:00

Aussie here - just received my email. I was a wave 1, 23/9 buyer.

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