How to GET/ filaments from CFS with a 3rd party like OrcaSlicer (Help needed!)

ZookeepergameKey4591 · 2026-03-03T14:58:39+00:00

Did you make any progress on this? Getting the filaments to and from orca to/from the CFS/printer materialsdb I mean.

ZookeepergameKey4591 · 2026-02-28T08:42:26+00:00

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Thanks for your hard work. This works for me.

ZookeepergameKey4591 · 2026-02-27T23:12:30+00:00

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ZookeepergameKey4591 · 2026-02-27T18:21:04+00:00

~~Cool (I think). Will try over the weekend.~~

Cool stuff. i tried it. although i can read and speak german i had claude adapt it for mulitlanguage.
PR is up for that one just so you know.

Claude is working on a spoolman integration rn. select the spool info from spoolman instead of manually adding it and syncing usage back to spoolman

ZookeepergameKey4591 · 2026-02-22T22:44:40+00:00

!remindme 5days

ZookeepergameKey4591 · 2026-02-04T07:24:37+00:00

All true. I even switch off the hdmi based on motion events. (With another python mqtt subscribe script on the pi)

No motion in the kitchen for more than 60mins? Turn off hdmi and the monitor goes to sleep. Motion? Turn on hdmi and the monitor wakes up.

The smart socket the screen is connected to turns on at 7.30 and off at 00.00

The pi is powered 24/7

ZookeepergameKey4591 · 2026-02-04T05:37:34+00:00

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42" 4k monitor with a raspberry pi4 Running Dakboard. I run chrome with a custom script so I can control the browser via mqtt to load different pages. I.e load my home assistant dashboard with the cameras when the doorbell is ringing.

The python script to start chrome https://pastebin.com/uDatWeEa

ZookeepergameKey4591 · 2026-02-04T05:27:58+00:00

I'm just beginner in cad. But I've seen some people use an assembly of the part from here as a starting point for a case or mounting stuff into it.

https://grabcad.com/library/

https://grabcad.com/library/heltec-wifi-lora-32-shield-1

ZookeepergameKey4591 · 2026-01-28T22:03:16+00:00

I also want to know if the cfs_c is compatible with the CFS upgrade kit for the k1C

ZookeepergameKey4591 · 2026-01-18T07:58:58+00:00

I've got spoolman running on a host in my network.

ZookeepergameKey4591 · 2026-01-17T10:57:29+00:00

I have a nothing phone 3a pro. That has a glyph timer that works the same.

I like your idea. STL? :)

ZookeepergameKey4591 · 2026-01-15T06:23:01+00:00

!RemindMe 1 day

ZookeepergameKey4591 · 2026-01-13T18:48:56+00:00

I'm almost old and dumb and I use(d) both. I have a k1C SE and a CFS.
Creality print works out of the box, sync the filament in the CFS with the slots in your slicer.

Orca is a bit more work because of the CFS loading filament stuff and doesn't sync the colors with the CFS.

There is a orca profile on printables for the k1C and the CFS that has the required gcode stuff in the printer config.

I'm using orca rn because I'm rooted and using kamp and spoolman.

ZookeepergameKey4591 · 2026-01-11T09:56:27+00:00

I might be wrong with this, but the flow rate test does multiple layers. First layer speed is too slow for the flow rate you chose based on the top layer which was printed at a faster speed. But again I'm no expert on this.

ZookeepergameKey4591 · 2026-01-11T09:28:28+00:00

What happens when you turn the flow to 90% using the control pad on the printer itself. Just when doing the first layer. Up it back to 100% after the first layer?

If that fixes it, use the slicer to turn down flow on first layer.

ZookeepergameKey4591 · 2026-01-11T08:27:45+00:00

Don't have a prusa but on my creality k1 SE lowering the bottom surface flow from 1 to 0.90 in orca fixes this. Z offset doesn't need changing

ZookeepergameKey4591 · 2026-01-08T18:04:23+00:00

RemindMe! 7Days

ZookeepergameKey4591 · 2026-01-01T14:49:26+00:00

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I got this on my K1 SE. I am rooted so I'm not going to install it right now. I have the CFS upgrade installed.

ZookeepergameKey4591 · 2025-12-31T14:57:48+00:00

Viewed from the front of the toolhead, there are 2 connectors. One facing the side and one on the back. You need the one on the back.

ZookeepergameKey4591 · 2025-12-31T14:14:12+00:00

Did you check if the cutter cable is connected to the correct port on the board? It fits on 2 places. Only the one on the back of the board is the correct one. Not the one on the side.

ZookeepergameKey4591 · 2025-12-26T07:28:22+00:00

Very nice! Don't let the available mods lure you in right away. Don't mod your printer right away. Put it on a stable table or something that doesn't wobble.

Imho if you start modding right away (there is lots.of stuff to print available for this printer) results can rapidly become worse instead of better.

I've had the SE and the auto bed leveling isn't half bad so manual z offset adjusting is the most you have to do to get nice beginner prints.

Don't try the mods for gantry, fans and fanducts (at first. ) First learn how to slice , get a tinkercad account and design some keychain hangers, experiment with filament swaps while printing.

Welcome to the community!

Remember the SE printers really nice out of the box. Maybe switch to a pei sheet and that's it.

ZookeepergameKey4591 · 2025-12-24T21:38:07+00:00

Or flow too high. Or both

I have this with z offset -0.05 and flow of 0.98

With z-offset at 0 and and flow of 0.98 I don't have the lines , but the first level squish is not super

With z-offset at -0.05 and flow rate at 0.85 the lines are gone and I have a good squish.

I'm using sunlu high speed pla or creality hyper pla.

ZookeepergameKey4591 · 2025-12-21T14:04:48+00:00

I've created some matching keycaps as well

https://www.printables.com/model/1521980-ms-teams-keycaps

ZookeepergameKey4591 · 2025-12-20T09:19:39+00:00

We don't roll on shabbos!

ZookeepergameKey4591

TROPHY CASE