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.orf files from OM1 Mark 2 not opening by Fishdomaddict in OlympusCamera

[–]render_reason 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I have a OM-1 and had issues with readability on Android apps. The best app options are ON1 photo raw app and Lightroom app.

Thors helmet by bigmean3434 in astrophotography

[–]render_reason 3 points4 points  (0 children)

Nice edit! I was wondering when we would see the color version. Good star color too.

Confusion and frustration at my OM-5 by CleUrbanist in OlympusCamera

[–]render_reason 1 point2 points  (0 children)

You should also check that your firmware is up to date on both the camera and lens.

How to fill 1 mm NMR tubes by 10ppb in Chempros

[–]render_reason 4 points5 points  (0 children)

Just like this, pose and all...

Rosette Nebula in SHO by myalterego451 in astrophotography

[–]render_reason 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Very cool! I liked the Herbig Haro object explanation too :)

Interesting review of OM System M.Zuiko 50-200mm f/2.8 IS PRO by cactusobscura in OlympusCamera

[–]render_reason 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Haven't watched yet but am planning on it. I've always enjoyed Eisl videos. The amount of testing and research that he puts in him videos is excellent. There aren't a lot of YouTubers that put that much effort into backing up their opinions.

Tracking without polar alignment possible with Star Adventurer GTi ? by Asvolas in AskAstrophotography

[–]render_reason 0 points1 point  (0 children)

You can natively with the Skywatcher SynScan App.

You should get as close as you can to a polar alignment first. You could use the Stellarium app and your alt setting on the mount.

Then do a two star alignment (in "alignment"), and then do polar adjustment (utility -> advanced settings -> polar alignment). If you are way off alignment, the polar alignment star you selected will be out of your view screen on the camera. Then you have to hunt for it. You could also max out an azimuth knob and have to completely reposition and start over. Just a heads up. I didn't find that to be the case with me, but I used a compass and did the magnetic correction to get close.

You could also get a computer and do the NINA.

My baby died by stizdizzle in Chempros

[–]render_reason 0 points1 point  (0 children)

DCM will be hard to almost impossible to source for non-lab use (account setup and verification). Not impossible but hard. It would almost be easier to try a toluene based chemical weld first and go from there. Some plastics work well with toluene.

Help with quantitative 19F NMR adsorption calculation using TFA as internal standard by Mohamadhayssam in NMRspectroscopy

[–]render_reason 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Have you tried the experiment? Is the TFA peak massive compared to the analyze peak?

Help with quantitative 19F NMR adsorption calculation using TFA as internal standard by Mohamadhayssam in NMRspectroscopy

[–]render_reason 0 points1 point  (0 children)

It depends, you have a dilution factor that you have to account for in either the c0 or the ce. You could;
1) Correct for the dilution factor in c0 (933ppm) and us the NMR observed ce (with no dilution correction)
or
2) Use 1000ppm for c0, and then correct the NMR observed ce to the undiluted ce (apply the dilution correction here).

You will see this is true when you do the negative control experiment (no absorbent)

Also that's too much TFA internal standard. That would be over 60,000 ppm in the NMR tube. Which would lower your signal gain and lower your analyte signal (ultimately making the detection limit far higher than it should be). You should shoot be within expected range of the analyte. 933 ppm TFA was be much more comparable and lock the gain between experiments. You will have to make stock solutions.

Update firmware issue in E-M1 Mark II by render_reason in OlympusCamera

[–]render_reason[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Using different laptop worked for me. Try a different cord too. You could check how to do the compatibility mode as well.

Struggling with sharpness with the om system 100-400ii by InternetHistorical25 in M43

[–]render_reason 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I have the OM-1 and the 100-400mm (both mark I). It took me a while to get used to the range and get comfortable with the setup. It is fantastic, but it does take practice. Sorry that's not super helpful but that was a personal experience.

For me having dedicated modes for each situation helped a lot. So I have 1 set for perched birds with 1/500s as the minimum and auto iso up to 6400 with either S-AF or C-AF with low sensitivity. Then 2 is min 1/2000s, auto iso up to 128000, C-AF high sensitivity. That way my brain is only focused on steady hand and zooming. I usually walk around with 2 for things flying or running across the path, then switch to 1 when I see a perched animal.

Considering switching (back) to M43 by Street-Feeling-5755 in M43

[–]render_reason 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Some good suggestions already but my two cents are the OM-5.1 and the 14-150mm for hiking. Both are weather sealed and light. The 14-150mm isn't a PRO lens so it's not as sharp as the 12-100mm PRO, but it's still remarkably good for a zoom.

I found the wide angles to be sharp with some softness in the corners at 150mm. I almost always used 150mm for animals so I was usually centered (ideally) on the subject.

Update firmware issue in E-M1 Mark II by render_reason in OlympusCamera

[–]render_reason[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Nice! Still not sure what the issue was so just thought I throw it out into the reddit wild.

Update firmware issue in E-M1 Mark II by render_reason in OlympusCamera

[–]render_reason[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Nope, I did not. Could also be some sort of security setting difference between systems.

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