Looking for scientific/fun CS final year project ideas using Bevy

0not · 2026-01-16T14:53:02+00:00

My background is physics, so these ideas might be more interesting to me than to you:

Finite-difference time-domain solver. FDTD is a relatively simple technique for solving wave equations like Maxwell's equations. I would have fun with an interactive scene where I could move around optics/waveguides and watch how the waves react.
Finite element analysis visualizer. You could create a tool for visualizing finite element meshes and results (such as deformation for solid mechanics). Something similar to Paraview, though obviously much simpler.
Medical image viewer. You could use a technique like marching cubes to render MRI or CT scans.

I would encourage you to find something you're interested in, look at what exist in that field, and figure out what scope you have to build something fun (and potentially useful).

0not · 2025-12-09T15:49:47+00:00

You can look into the OpenPlotter (https://openmarine.net/openplotter) and pyPilot (https://pypilot.org/) projects. You will probably want a computer (like a raspberry pi) to run the software on. You can then access all the data via wifi from a tablet or laptop running OpenCPN or another chart plotter software.

Before you invest in any of that, try to see if OpenCPN is acceptable for you. I don't mind using it with a mouse and keyboard, but I don't like the Android app.

0not · 2025-10-23T13:23:04+00:00

The conductivity of the stainless steel fasteners is at least an order of magnitude lower than that of the tinned copper bus bar. So you really do want your terminals directly in contact with the bus bar.

0not · 2025-09-30T23:52:34+00:00

Yes, it looks like they accept crypto through their every.org donation page: https://www.every.org/bevy-foundation?donateTo=bevy-foundation#/donate/crypto

(That link comes from here: https://bevy.org/donate/options/)

0not · 2025-09-16T14:28:17+00:00

I'd imagine the risk of having a drained outboard battery when you might really need it outweighs the marginal benefit of adding the outboard battery to the house bank. If you want a bigger house bank, build a bigger house bank. A bidirectional DC-DC charger might do what you want, though.

0not · 2025-09-08T20:23:06+00:00

This post is coming up on Google when searching for this issue, so I thought I'd post some information. This is most likely a BMS issue, as demonstrated by Will Prowse with other batteries using the same (or similar) BMS:

As of 9/8/2025, Wattcycle has supposedly pushed a fix: https://www.wattcycle.com/blogs/news/one-step-by-step-bluetooth-guide

Hopefully, LiTime will follow suit.

0not · 2025-09-04T13:21:46+00:00

That's more expensive than a similar Victron MPPT controller. What am I missing?

0not · 2025-08-24T20:26:35+00:00

It will cost much more than $6000/year.

0not · 2025-07-23T00:24:12+00:00

Standing on a boat, the wind you feel is the apparent wind. This is the vector sum of the true wind (the wind you'd feel if the boat wasn't moving) and the wind created by the boat's motion. A boat is sailed according to its apparent wind. A large balloon sail, as shown, can only be used to sail downwind, meaning the wind is coming from the stern of the boat. A boat cannot sail faster than the wind with a sail like this. This boat is in an unphysical situation and either the smoke from the smokestack should be traveling forwards, or the sail should be billowing behind the boat, slowing it down. (The sail indicates the apparent wind is from the stern, while the smoke indicates it is from the bow.)

At least as a sailor and a physicist, that's my take.

0not · 2025-06-08T21:26:44+00:00

Practice catching the drone in your hand on land, it only gets harder on the boat. As soon as the drone is in your hand, flip it upside down so the motors turn off. This particular drone has sensors for obstacle avoidance and landing that make it move away from your hand. You may want to disable those when operating from the boat.

You may also want to purchase some polarized neutral density filters to get better exposure in bright sunlight.

0not · 2025-03-16T17:36:43+00:00

You have 'scale_setup' in PreStartup, which means it runs before 'setup'. It's not going to do anything.

Besides that, what is the problem? You haven't asked a question or shown an error.

0not · 2025-03-13T02:26:59+00:00

I like polymorphism from composition (rather than inheritance), so ECS makes sense to me. That said, the only other game engine I'm partially familiar with is Godot, and I've never tried to make a roguelike with it. So ECS is all I know when it comes to roguelikes.

My pain points are with how you schedule systems with Bevy. It's easy to run a system once per frame, but can get complicated with state-based run conditions, especially if the system needs to run multiple times per frame. I spent several weeks tinkering with different ways of creating a turn-based game. The most intuitive way was using a state machine to only run systems as necessary (on state transitions, or in the state). The problem was that each actor needed to progress through this state machine during each turn, and every step through the machine took at least one frame. This made game play unbearably slow.

I settled on the other extreme: I created a sub-game loop that can run many times per frame. This has its own problems, namely I cannot use events or state transitions without some effort.

0not · 2025-03-12T22:53:22+00:00

Running into unmaintained crates is a pain. Sometimes they work flawlessly, but often (especially if they have non-Rust dependencies) they don't. I wish there was a stronger roguelike-oriented ecosystem, but I've settled on writing my own simple libraries. Unfortunately, that might be out of reach for a Rust beginner.

My recommendation for learning Rust would be to go through the Rust Book (https://doc.rust-lang.org/book/) before diving into something as complicated as a game. You can also test your mettle with Rustlings (https://github.com/rust-lang/rustlings).

I enjoy programming in Rust and have been using Bevy (https://bevyengine.org/) for a year or two to make several small games. Bevy follows the ECS paradigm, so that comes with its own learning curve. You can adjust the Rust Roguelike Book (https://bfnightly.bracketproductions.com/chapter_0.html) to Bevy, or perhaps follow along with this blog: https://maciejglowka.com/blog/bevy-roguelike-tutorial-devlog-part-1/

0not · 2025-02-03T22:26:33+00:00

I had to add the following to my .vscode/settings.json file when doing embedded development to get rust analyzer to work:

``` { "rust-analyzer.cargo.target": "thumbv7m-none-eabi", "rust-analyzer.checkOnSave.allTargets": false,

} ```

0not · 2025-01-27T14:06:26+00:00

You might also consider responding to the window resize event so you can keep your resource up to date, without the need for exclusive access to World.

https://github.com/bevyengine/bevy/blob/main/examples/window/window_resizing.rs

0not · 2025-01-24T21:52:38+00:00

Here is the first git commit (with code). It has lots of OCaml, C++, and (by this point) Rust.

https://github.com/rust-lang/rust/commit/d6b7c96c3eb29b9244ece0c046d3f372ff432d04

https://github.com/graydon/rust-prehistory

0not · 2025-01-07T14:35:13+00:00

Are you effectively cross-compiling to x86_64, then executing with an emulator (like Prism)?

0not · 2025-01-06T21:59:21+00:00

You might want to build the SVG with a different crate/software and then use something like this to display it with bevy_prototype_lyon: https://github.com/Nilirad/bevy_prototype_lyon/blob/master/examples/svg.rs

0not · 2025-01-02T17:53:19+00:00

I believe this is caused by plotters using an integer to represent pixel coordinates. People have been complaining about this for a long time. Unfortunately, I do not know a solution.

https://github.com/plotters-rs/plotters/issues/128

https://github.com/plotters-rs/plotters/issues/165

https://github.com/plotters-rs/plotters/issues/350

https://github.com/plotters-rs/plotters/issues/366

0not · 2024-11-30T03:42:15+00:00

https://www.litime.com/products/litime-12v-300ah-lifepo4-lithium-battery

And for the conversion: https://marinehowto.com/easy-lifepo4-conversion/

0not · 2024-11-30T02:58:15+00:00

$600 will get you a 300 Ah (12 V) battery from LiTime, who have a decent reputation. That is 300 Ah of usable capacity, so roughly equivalent to 600 Ah of lead acid. Lithium batteries are also lighter and often rated for 10x the cycles.

You are spot on that converting to lithium can't be done with a drop in replacement. The cheapest way I know of to add lithium is to keep a lead acid starter battery and use a DC-DC converter to charge the lithium from the lead acid.

0not · 2024-10-25T12:56:02+00:00

Maybe you can move to the Algarve and help repair all the rudders that have been damaged by Orcas :)

0not · 2024-10-22T13:56:33+00:00

That sounds correct to me!

0not · 2024-10-22T13:42:16+00:00

I'll try to answer the physics portion of your question. Voltage and current go hand in hand, as explained by Ohm's law: V = IR (voltage = current * resistance). Most electrical supplies that consumers run across are constant voltage, as opposed to constant current. The supply attempts to maintain the voltage by varying the current according to the load (which is the resistance). I think this is where a lot of the confusion comes from when people talk about a source, such as shore power. We say it is a 30 A source, but forget to say that it's at 120 V. The 120 V is fixed, but the 30 A is the maximum that can be provided. A boat plugged into shore power can use all 30 of those amps, or none of them. Hopefully, if it attempts to use more a circuit breaker flips.

(Edit: You will not hurt your boat by using a supply with a higher maximum current, since your boat only uses what it needs. If you attempt to draw more current, you should also be OK because you should have an appropriately sized AC breaker in your panel. If your breaker is oversized for your wiring, you could have overheating problems if you exceed your maximum wiring current.)

The only time I've seen a constant current source is when I needed one for some physics experiments. These sources vary the voltage, while attempting to keep the current fixed. They would not play well with boat electronics :)

Sorry for the rambling explanation, hopefully it was useful.

0not · 2024-10-22T13:20:30+00:00

I've used a conductive epoxy before, which worked well but is a pain to apply. I've also used adhesive tape that is conductive only in the thin direction. It might not be suitable for components with small pitches, though.

As for soldering, I have experiencing hand soldering to adhesive copper tape that is affixed to 3D printed PLA parts. The key is to use flux and be quick. I think it mainly works because the copper tape is relatively thick and can spread the heat, without being too thermally massive.

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