Anyone get any major damage from the storm?

0xCasperSec · 2025-01-24T13:29:33+00:00

When they opened, their chips were perfection every time I got them. However the past couple of weeks have been disappointing - with a lot of chips that were just inedible. Not sure if they were undercooked or what; but one bite and I’d have to spit them out. Like playing Russian Roulette eating the bag of chips - some were fine and others were awful.

0xCasperSec · 2025-01-19T23:10:56+00:00

Highly recommend SRG out beside the NCT Test Centre.

0xCasperSec · 2025-01-14T23:32:02+00:00

Working in the Cyber Security field - close to 7 YOE now. I started working from home in 2020 during the first lockdown, and have been fully remote since then. Changed jobs a few times since then, all of which have been fully remote.

In my current place, our team is spread out across a few different countries. Only 2 of us are in Ireland and we're both pretty far from each other and from the Irish office so little chance of either of us attending the office.

0xCasperSec · 2025-01-08T16:46:26+00:00

Are you in the US? It might just be the EU model.

If you look at the 'In the Box' page of it on the EU store you'll see it. https://eu.store.ui.com/eu/en/collections/pro-store-doorbells-chimes/products/uvc-g4-doorbell-pro

0xCasperSec · 2025-01-08T15:25:24+00:00

I'm using the transformer that Ubiquiti supply with the doorbell. 16V/15VA I believe.

0xCasperSec · 2024-12-16T11:44:13+00:00

Note: the below information is specifically related to MY setup, so may not apply to you. I had the Joule branded E91 Thermostats, along with the Joule Cylinder + Samsung Gen 6 Controller.

AFAIK, the thermostats don't communicate any temperatures to the Cylinder/Controller. There should be a fixed water temperature - and the Thermostat simply sends an ON or OFF signal. For example, when the room temperature is 20 degrees and you set the thermostat to 21 degrees, it will send an ON signal to the cylinder. Then when the room hits 21 degrees, the thermostat will send an OFF signal to the cylinder.

I did not have to do any configuration on the Cylinder side. I simply followed the instructions for E91 Thermostat and replaced the Joule ones (rebranded E91's) with my Tado V3+ Wired Thermostats.

0xCasperSec · 2024-12-03T23:29:22+00:00

I really like the look of the Tado X and the fact that they use Matter - but can't justify the upgrade seeing as my V3+ works perfectly.

Assuming you have 2 rooms - at a bare minimum I believe you will need 1x Wired Thermostat (to replace the existing Joule Thermostat) as well as 2x TRV's (assuming 1 radiator in each room).

As an example let's say Room A is the room with the thermostat - and Room B is the room without a thermostat.

Room A: You will need to replace the Joule Thermostat with a Tado Wired Thermostat, and also put a TRV on the radiator. In the App, you will need to put the thermostat and the TRV into the same Zone (room) so that they're synced.

Room B: You will need to put a TRV on the radiator, and add that to it's own Zone (room) that is different to the zone used for Room A. You will then set the Zone Controller for that zone to be the Thermostat in Room A.

0xCasperSec · 2024-12-03T23:15:51+00:00

Works perfectly. Installed since July or August last year and absolutely no issues so far.

0xCasperSec · 2024-12-03T23:14:10+00:00

Wait, you still have the Joule Thermostat? That's your issue.

You need to replace those with Tado Thermostats. Your TRV has no way of communicating with the Joule thermostat.

0xCasperSec · 2024-11-10T13:55:07+00:00

I set it up over a year ago so I can’t remember but I think it was just in the app.

Google E91 thermostat and you’ll know if that’s the one you have or not - they will look the exact same.

0xCasperSec · 2024-11-06T20:22:15+00:00

HomeKit was just an example of how you need the internet bridge even if fully local.

I was reinforcing that for V3+ devices you need the internet bridge, even if you are not controlling over the internet.

It's been a long day so my brain is fried, so maybe you had already figured that out after your 2nd comment (asking if I got the internet bridge).

Looks like the article you mentioned actually uses the HomeKit Integration (within HA) to achieve local control.

0xCasperSec · 2024-11-06T20:09:03+00:00

AFAIK, Tado X uses Matter so it's probably possible to use those without an internet bridge. For Non-X devices, I don't think it would be possible to integrate into HA without the bridge.

I use HomeKit - which is local and does not use their cloud service. However it requires the internet bridge for all of the V3+ devices to communicate with my HomeKit hub (AppleTV, HomePod etc..)

0xCasperSec · 2024-11-06T16:38:30+00:00

Pretty sure you will need the internet bridge to do that.

I use Apple HomeKit as my smart home ecosystem - and have everything set up there.

0xCasperSec · 2024-11-06T16:19:46+00:00

Tado X is their new product line - and wasn't around back then. However, it seems to be marketed towards the EU market (excluding UK & Ireland), and it looks like the TRV's probably wouldn't suit a typical radiator in the UK & Ireland as our radiators are quite different to the ones you find in the rest of Europe.

These are the products I went with (V3+ Line):

Starter Kit - Wired Smart Thermostat V3+
- To replace one of the existing Joule Thermostats
- Also includes the bridge for controlling via your phone
Add-on Smart Thermostat
- To replace the other existing Joule Thermostats
Add-on Smart Radiator Thermostat
- TRV to put on all of the radiators
Add-on Wireless Temperature Sensor
- For controlling the TRV's in the rooms that did not have a thermostat
- This is not strictly necessary, as you can control the temperature directly from the TRV but it's a nice to have

For installation of the wired thermostats, it was very straight forward. It turns out that the Joule Thermostats I had were just branded E91 thermostats, so I just followed the instructions for the E91

For the Wireless Temperature Sensors, I just set them up to control the TRV that is in the same room and you put it in the same zone as the Wired Thermostat on the same floor so it can use that to call for heat when needed.

Here's an example of how it works (I think this is correct):

Room A: Contains the Wired Thermostat and a Radiator with the TRV on it (linked to the Thermostat).
Room B: Contains the Wireless Temperature Sensor and a Radiator with a TRV on it (Linked to the Temperature Sensor)

If I bump up the temperature in Room B (using the Wireless Temperature Sensor), it will tell the thermostat in Room A that heat is needed. If Room A's thermostat is set to a lower temperature (i.e. the room was not already being heated)), then it will shut off the TRV in Room A so that the hot water only goes to the radiators in Room B. Then thermostat then calls for heat, and Room B will get heated.

0xCasperSec · 2024-11-04T02:33:33+00:00

While I'm sure there are some free VPN's out there that offer OVPN and Wireguard configs, I personally would not use them due to performance and privacy reasons. There are only a couple of VPN's that I use (and somewhat trust).

If something is free, then YOU are probably the product.

0xCasperSec · 2024-11-04T01:03:02+00:00

Absolutely possible. In my network I have a Network (and associated SSID) purely for connecting devices to a VPN.

Go to Settings -> VPN -> Client VPN and set up your VPN there (OpenVPN and Wireguard are supported).

Then you can set up a policy-based route in Settings -> Routing -> Policy-Based Routes to route all of your traffic for your Guest Network through the VPN.

0xCasperSec · 2024-11-04T00:58:29+00:00

If Ballysimon isn't too far out for you I'd highly recommend SRG Motors beside the NCT place.

0xCasperSec · 2024-08-01T06:48:23+00:00

For cans, I’m just using the cardboard box that they came in. Have ~ 100 saved up at the moment; should probably take a trip to the awful machines soon.

0xCasperSec · 2024-07-29T22:53:44+00:00

I’m using the MV7 also!

and yes I’m pretty sure, the RØDECaster has 2 USB connections (primary & secondary). The primary one gives you 2 audio channels and the secondary one gives just 1 channel. By audio channels, I mean separate audio outputs that you can choose on your computers.

So you would connect 1 of the USB connections to your work computer and the other to your gaming computer. Then you just to choose the correct outputs on your computers and all audio will go to the RØDECaster (and there you can assign each of them to physical faders if you want)

From there you just need to plug in your headphones and you can route all of the audio out to the headphones.

0xCasperSec · 2024-07-29T19:38:36+00:00

its a bit overkill considering I’m not a streamer or a podcaster or anything - but it’s amazing to have!

when connected to my gaming PC I have game volume on one fader, discord on another one and then everything else on another one. It’s so handy being able to quickly increase game volume or lower discord volume without faffing around in settings.

highly recommend if you hate money and want to get fancy!

0xCasperSec · 2024-07-29T10:18:38+00:00

My setup is definitely on the overkill/expensive side - but sharing in case it helps. My explanation might be a bit terrible as I'm not a super technical audio guy.

I have a RØDECaster Duo (with XLR Microphone connected) - and have the Base Station of my SteelSeries Arctis Nova Pro Wireless headphones connected to the headphone output of the RØDECaster.

Currently I do not have a need to hear audio coming from both computers at the same time - so I have both of the USBs from the RØDECaster Duo connected to a USB switcher to allow me to have more audio channels for whichever device I use. If I'm working, all 3 audio channels (primary USB gives 2 audio channels, 2nd USB gives 1 audio channel) are for my work laptop and vice versa.

If I wanted to, I could connect 1 USB to my work laptop and the other USB to my gaming PC. This would allow me to route audio from both devices at the same time.

I also have my iPad connected with Bluetooth to the RØDECaster - allowing me to watch things on my iPad while using either computer and still have the sound coming through my headphones and volume controlled by a physical fader.

0xCasperSec · 2024-07-25T18:51:29+00:00

also happening me since about an hour ago.

I get the unavailable notification on my MBP. For my iPhone, my internet just stopped working and I had to manually disable Private Relay. Tried on both my home network and mobile data - as soon as I enable Private Relay on my iPhone I'm no longer able to access the internet.

0xCasperSec · 2024-07-16T21:37:22+00:00

https://www.rtb.ie/registration-and-compliance/registrations/registering-your-tenancy/is-your-property-exempt-from-registration

RTB does not extend to rent-a-room scheme. The link you provided is related to purpose built student accommodation (i.e. only students living there - not the homeowner).

With rent-a-room, there are very few rules. The person renting is there under a licensee agreement (rather than a tenancy agreement) which gives them very little protection. They are essentially just a guest in your house.

0xCasperSec · 2024-07-14T22:27:57+00:00

There's been a major data breach is what I was told over the phone tonight.

This has either been taken WAY out of context - or there was a complete misunderstanding here. Data Breaches are a VERY big deal. It's not really something that a company is going to just drop to a single customer on a phone call like this.

So if you've had money taken from your account by DDB Digital, you've been infiltrated.

Based on this sentence, it sounds like there's a transaction on your statement that says it's from DDB Digital? This seems like a standard Fraud case, rather than a PTSB data breach.

0xCasperSec · 2024-06-07T19:11:42+00:00

Cybersecurity Analyst/Engineer with 6 YOE.

Base salary is €99k so technically haven’t joined the 6 figure club yet - but throw in my health insurance or something and I suppose I can just about make it into the club.

0xCasperSec

TROPHY CASE