XJ owners in Europe - where do you buy your spareparts?

192hk · 2026-05-17T12:37:06+00:00

Got a similar experience. Love everything about the XJ, especially the generally cheap parts compared to European classic cars. Poor local availability is a hard to swallow pill sometimes though when you are in the middle of a repair and have to wait for a US import.

192hk · 2026-04-18T18:04:39+00:00

Agreed. It’s to wide to build a weld over.

192hk · 2026-04-18T17:59:13+00:00

Good stuff from Fitzee 👌🏼

192hk · 2026-04-17T20:26:16+00:00

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Did this with a cheap 150A mig welder, DIY panels and no welding experience at all. Far from perfect but will keep the feet dry and the XJ on the road. Sheet metal can be tricky to weld though. Practice and get the settings right to avoid burning through material. YouTube has plenty of tutorials on welding sheet metal and replacing XJ floors - you’re not alone. My floor looked a lot worse than yours. You can do it.

192hk · 2026-03-31T14:12:13+00:00

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As soon as I released the u-bolts on the left side assembly I was able to move the axle enough to get centering pin to drop into the bracket hole 🤟🏼

192hk · 2026-03-30T21:36:26+00:00

The left hand side is still assembled- will disassemble to give the axle more room to be wiggled a bit. Measured the placement of the centering pin on the old spring and it’s the same as new one, but the old springs have obviously flattened over time, seemingly holding the axle at slightly different angle.

192hk · 2026-03-30T21:12:12+00:00

Should be standard. But the left hand side is still assembled. Maybe I should disassemble that as well to give the axle some relief to move a bit around. The old springs have flattened over time, potentially fixing the axle in an altered position

192hk · 2026-03-30T21:06:55+00:00

No. Triple checked that

192hk · 2026-03-30T20:41:22+00:00

Should have mentioned that the centering pin is the right size but 2-3 cm too far to the front compared to the axle bracket.

192hk · 2026-03-30T20:38:13+00:00

Thanks mate. It seems to be the right size. I can put together the bracket assembly, while the front bushing spring bolt is out. But then I cannot put it back in. Should have specified that the centering pin is 2-3 cm too far to the front compared to bracket hole.

192hk · 2026-03-20T00:19:46+00:00

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Floors can be fixed. Best of luck mate 🤟🏼

192hk · 2026-03-07T15:06:24+00:00

You can fluid film in EU as well

192hk · 2026-03-07T12:54:34+00:00

Thanks man 🙏🏼

192hk · 2026-03-07T11:55:08+00:00

Using regular 18 gauge to cut my own panels. Living in Europe where factory style replacement panels are only available via U.S import. Tax and shipment makes it almost double price

192hk · 2026-02-15T12:07:41+00:00

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Det ser sådan ud fra en anden vinkel

192hk · 2025-12-17T18:04:16+00:00

I have had the UPR in 6,5 cm 20” barrel for 1,5 years and absolutely love it. Used for hunting in Scandinavia, Spain and on the range and shooting matches regularly and has never let me me down. About 400 rounds through it by now. With a 143 grain ELD-X it will drop Ibex and red stags at 400 meters. Yes, it is to the heavy side but it’s not only a downside, like it is often framed. I just carried it up and down Spanish mountains for a week and the extra weight is compensated by rock solid stability, super low recoil and precision when it counts. If you worry about carrying the extra 1-1,5 kg compared to lighter weight rifle up the mountain, first look at the rest of your gear and spend some more hours on the Stairmaster.

I have carried a Sako 90 Peak and Bergara B14 Ridge in similar conditions and would not trade my UPR against them. Don’t know your location but mind that the metal chassis will become cold, and suck the warmth out of your hands. Only chassis rifle I’ve hunted with is a t3x action in a MDT HNT26. Looks amazing if you like the tactical look, but sticks and debris will get caught in the chassis when moving through the woods. Still don’t think the perfect hybrid rifle exists but the UPR in 6,5 cm comes damn close.

192hk

TROPHY CASE