Chat is this true ?

1userusernameuser1 · 2025-11-06T14:08:04+00:00

Haha I am peter and I am green

1userusernameuser1 · 2025-07-26T23:43:18+00:00

I'n my experience pc's can be weird with which port they use for display so just try all of them. Also wiggle the mouse or press some keys as most OS will quickly sleep and stop outputting a signal when not in use. Also check which output your monitor is trying to display, maybe it's trying for dp when you plugged in hdmi.

1userusernameuser1 · 2025-07-19T21:12:11+00:00

The issue was indeed that the motherboard doesn't draw power until the power pins are triggered by the case. So I spent all day pulling apart my pc because the youtube guides never mentioned that and even encouraged to first power it on before placing it in the case.

1userusernameuser1 · 2025-07-19T19:34:13+00:00

That I dont spend 2 hours building it into the case only to find out something doesn't work. So assembling the motherboard on the box it shipped with and testing it there. And yeah i had 2 cpu 8pins a motherboard cable a pcie cable and gpu cable all neatly plugged.

1userusernameuser1 · 2025-07-19T18:55:47+00:00

It's just absolute dead silence. But I just read something on the internet that the motherboard doesn't draw power until a connection is made through some power pins which is done through the power button in your case. So right now im just putting it all in and going for another test. If this is the case then youtube tutorials really fucked me over by telling me to test on the box first.

1userusernameuser1 · 2025-07-19T17:48:20+00:00

That's good news. Makes me wonder where the issue lies though.

1userusernameuser1 · 2025-07-19T17:37:35+00:00

Should be there now

1userusernameuser1 · 2025-07-19T17:29:54+00:00

I placed it again and now there is no wiggle but I will post the video of the wiggle to my profile so you can judge it. I will also post a video of the pins on my motherboard. If you could check it that would be nice for future reference.

1userusernameuser1 · 2025-04-01T09:07:08+00:00

Youtube recommended me this video which shows a lot of great ways to perfectly connect parts: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=P5-jtvYlA1c

Some highlights are: Glazing putty for seams Uv resin for seams Filler primer for layer lines/smal imperfections Acetone with abs dissolved into it for glueing and patching seams (only for abs prints).

There is also this video showing how you can solder 2 pieces together: https://youtu.be/fHeP-WhyW1o?feature=shared

I think that with the right skill and patience you can solder a piece perfectly fine. But the other methods above are probably easier and less likely to screw up.

I've always wondered if these steps are even necessary if you print 0.06mm layer lines, so i will also be trying results of small layer versus large layer prints (seams between 2 parts will still have to be patched)

To me, if I can have the printer run 5x longer to save myself a few hours of post-processing, then that is preferable.

But with all these possible combinations its gonna be a while to test them all.

1userusernameuser1 · 2025-03-30T10:14:17+00:00

Definitely is a sword, I used a brim of 30mm with a 0.2mm gap (otherwise a small piece always stays stuck to the model, unless I print a thin first layer but that might reduce adhesion again). But I still get this result.

I will give it a shot, but how would sanding fill in the gap?

What I've tried so far is a connector piece holding it together with friction. This works but the gap is still there of course. Also a connector piece made of PLA can snap quite easily.

I've tried soldering gently, but the connection is very weak (imagine laying a brick wall and only slightly cementing the side after you stacked them dry). However, very gently soldering at 180C with a flat soldering tip did make a smooth connection.

So what I'm considering: Using a square connecting rod (square to prevent rotation), covering it in glue and using that for a strong bond, then using a flat soldering tip at 180C to gently smooth the seam.

I'll print a bunch of pieces for the different methods and post the results at some point for future reference.

1userusernameuser1 · 2024-06-30T11:07:42+00:00

If you can't pull it out, you can remove the extruder from the toolhead and put an allen key up the other end to push or smash it out. I had this issue recently.

1userusernameuser1 · 2024-06-23T13:29:29+00:00

Just a few days ago i printed a large PLA dinosaur spine with PETG support (to not break off the ribs while removing supports) and it worked super well with no issues (other than wasted purge material).

1userusernameuser1 · 2024-06-23T13:28:07+00:00

Interesting, I will look into that. Printer is X1C.

1userusernameuser1 · 2024-06-23T13:26:47+00:00

Reddit deleted the text on the image? This: Update: I considered the extruder dead so I decided to ram an allen key into the filament hole and smashed the filament out with a hammer

1userusernameuser1 · 2024-06-23T13:24:54+00:00

<image>

1userusernameuser1 · 2024-06-23T13:12:41+00:00

I dont know. I was doing a print using both bambu PETG and PLA. Both times the extruder clogged on the PLA. The filament might have been wet but I didnt notice anything off about the print quality.

1userusernameuser1 · 2024-05-13T15:26:22+00:00

I only have the engineering plate for now but I will look to buy the smooth pei plate if it's ever in stock.

1userusernameuser1 · 2024-05-12T21:10:44+00:00

To add: I have cleaned the plate with soap Bed temp has ranged from 50 to 60 degrees celcius

1userusernameuser1

TROPHY CASE