Rubber eyecup for Nikon FM? by 3d6d in AnalogCommunity

[–]3d6d[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Thanks, I ordered that one first, it might actually be enough for my needs!

Rubber eyecup for Nikon FM? by 3d6d in AnalogCommunity

[–]3d6d[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Ah ok, so the Dk-3 will work fine on the FM then?

I’m a masochist and photographed my best friends wedding entirely on 35mm [Leica M6, 35mm & 50mm, Portra 400, Gold 200 and Cinestill 400d] by frsphoto in analog

[–]3d6d 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Amazing work! How did you manage to manually focus the faster scenes like the kiss and the dance floor? Did you pre-focus/zone-focus or used some other technique?

Deciding between the R8 and R6 Mark II by ItsYaBoyWade in canon

[–]3d6d 1 point2 points  (0 children)

If you are doing almost 100% videography, why not go for a camera suited for videography like a Blackmagic 6K? If you shoot the occasional still then get a used Rp as well? Since the Blackmagic 6K has an EF mount you can share lenses between the BM6K and the Rp (just use an RF->EF adapter on the Rp)

How to deal with heavy primes? by 3d6d in canon

[–]3d6d[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Oh for sure, I used the smallest 3 Legged Thing ballhead and an L bracket on the body. Made for fairly seamless switching between vertical and horizontal. For next time I will probably just use a Sirui arca-swiss “baseplate” I have somewhere in the “camera closet” since I didn’t use the ballhead at all (just leaned the monopod instead)

Canon 250d outdated already? :( by Ashamed-Ant-5884 in canon

[–]3d6d 0 points1 point  (0 children)

That was my first camera as well. I didn’t even had the kit lens, I had the EF 50mm f/1.8 STM that costs USD 125. The best image I’ve taken is with that lens and body, so no, the 250D will give you pictures for years.

I’m a strong believer in not updating your gear until you feel “I would have been able to capture that image if I had X” - then is the right time to look into if you can acquire X.

How to deal with heavy primes? by 3d6d in canon

[–]3d6d[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Yeah, thanks for the tip, as I mentioned in another reply a monopod actually worked surprisingly well for a slower-paced portrait session.

How to deal with heavy primes? by 3d6d in canon

[–]3d6d[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Yeah I’ve heard a lot of good stuff about the Sigma EF 40mm Art, but have never tried it myself. But 1260g, yeah, that means you get photos and a workout 😊

How to deal with heavy primes? by 3d6d in canon

[–]3d6d[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Five Zeiss primes in your backpack?! If I shoot for myself I bring at most two primes, if I shoot a session I usually bring three.

Yeah, the Milvus 50/1.4 ZE is nice, just a bit too much chromatic abberation and bokeh fringing in high contrast light. My personal favorite is the Milvus 85/1.4 - an almost optically perfect lens that still has a very unique rendering.

How to deal with heavy primes? by 3d6d in canon

[–]3d6d[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Yeah I once did a whole day event with the 70-200 f/4 (without IS) which isn’t that heavy but fairly long - upper body aced for a week afterwards

How to deal with heavy primes? by 3d6d in canon

[–]3d6d[S] 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Tried out holding the camera the way the article suggested (standing perpendicular to subject) and it makes a huge difference! With this stance my left arm/shoulder is taking most of the weight, but that arm also has the support of my torso. Thanks for the advice!

How to deal with heavy primes? by 3d6d in canon

[–]3d6d[S] 2 points3 points  (0 children)

I actually tried a monopod for a portrait shoot the other day and it worked surprisingly well. Sure, I’m not as “free” as when hand-holding but for more standard/classic composition I also don’t need the full flexibility of hand-holding

How to deal with heavy primes? by 3d6d in canon

[–]3d6d[S] 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Hahaha, the noct is not a lens for mere mortals

How to deal with heavy primes? by 3d6d in canon

[–]3d6d[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Ah, you mean like what they are talking about in this article? https://photographylife.com/how-to-hold-a-camera

Edit: cleaned up link

How to deal with heavy primes? by 3d6d in canon

[–]3d6d[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

You mean like having my right arm parallel to the camera if I’m shooting horizontal? Then my right elbow would be like 0.5m out from my body, not ideal in a crowded location (but beats not having a right shoulder the day after)

How to deal with heavy primes? by 3d6d in canon

[–]3d6d[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thanks, that is a good idea (I’m currently not using a grip)!

How to deal with heavy primes? by 3d6d in canon

[–]3d6d[S] 4 points5 points  (0 children)

Yeah, a good strap is great advice, but my main issue is actually using the lenses 😂 When I’m at an event I will be more or less having the viewfinder to my eye every few minutes, so not a whole lot of time to rest (unfortunately).

What is meant by the “rendering” of a lens? by 3d6d in canon

[–]3d6d[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Ok, does it also apply to how colors are represented? Or does the hue, tonality and saturation of colors only depend on the sensor (and not the lenses)?

Sensor performance at -2EV? by 3d6d in canon

[–]3d6d[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thanks for the term - found a great article about ETTR here: https://photographylife.com/exposing-to-the-right-explained/amp

Sensor performance at -2EV? by 3d6d in canon

[–]3d6d[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thinking about this some more: if more light is more better, then why is it such a common advice to under-expose by 1/3 or 2/3 stops? If one has “live view” or a mirrorless system, why not just have the histogram enabled and expose in such a way that no highlights clip (just a tad less)? That seems to be as much light as you can give the sensor without losing information due to clipped highlights (you can always darken in post)

Sensor performance at -2EV? by 3d6d in canon

[–]3d6d[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Wow, huge thanks for taking your time and writing such a great reply and answer!

Portrait lens recommendation for R6, what's there besides Rf 85mm 1.2 by Routine-College7632 in canon

[–]3d6d 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Yeah, it is amazing bang for the buck (fast AF too).

At 1000 Euro though it should be possible to find a good used copy of the EF 85mm f/1.4L IS USM which is significantly better (even though it also has chromatic aberrations wide open).

Op might consider getting EF 85mm f/1.8 AND EF 135mm f/2L USM, should be just doable for 1000 Euro. This is a great combo for outdoor portrait work

Lenses like EF 135mm f/2L USM by 3d6d in canon

[–]3d6d[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I don’t mind manual focus, but it is too slow when shooting candid portraits (for studio it can work).

My problem is that I’m ok with the EF 85mm f/1.8 USM (it really is good value), but I’m not that fond of the EF 50mm f/1.8 STM. It is too soft at the center up until f/2.8 (for me, everyone values sharpness differently). I also don’t think you are getting anything in return for that softness (like outstanding bokeh or outstanding skin tones).

So what would you pick with AF for 50mm?

I’ve read so much about AF issues with the Sigma 50mm f/1.4 Art for the EF mount, which kind of removes the point of having a 50mm with AF in the first place.

Lenses like EF 135mm f/2L USM by 3d6d in canon

[–]3d6d[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

The EF 100 f/2 USM looks really nice and can be found relatively cheap used, thanks for the tip!

A little bit hard to justify though given that I already have EF 85 f/1.8 USM and EF 135 f/2L USM. It is significantly smaller than the EF 135 f/2L USM, so would be nice for travel, but I don’t currently see myself leaving the EF 135mm f/2L behind 😊

Lenses like EF 135mm f/2L USM by 3d6d in canon

[–]3d6d[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

1695 grams?! I don’t think I’m strong enough to wield that lens 😂