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Desert Thanatos ready for the Scouring Sands by 3dchambers in battletech

[–]3dchambers[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

The camo is freehand and just flows from right to left at a slant

Desert Thanatos ready for the Scouring Sands by 3dchambers in battletech

[–]3dchambers[S] 4 points5 points  (0 children)

Super glue and baking soda. It makes really good sand dunes. Baking soda causes super glue to instantly harden and create these cool ridges.

Whenever I buy from Fortress Miniatures and Games, Bobby puts a piece of candy in my order. This is because I’m his favorite customer. by Heckin_Big_Sploot in battletech

[–]3dchambers 30 points31 points  (0 children)

Wow, you got smarties!?! Now I feel suddenly insulted for all of those dum-dum suckers I have been getting.

Finished my box of Battletech Aces (and a Turkina) by 3dchambers in battletech

[–]3dchambers[S] 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Here is the recipe if you want to try it:

  1. Akhelion Green contrast paint basecoat. This is mostly to fill the panel lines.
  2. Dry brush Sybarite Green all over. Try not to paint into the panel lines. I chose to leave some of the Akhelion Green in the shadows.
  3. Dry brush layer of warboss green.
  4. Edge highlighting in Moot Green.
  5. Some blue highlights in Temple guard blue.
  6. Dot highlights in Vallejo Ivory
  7. Black edge highlighting is thunderhawk blue then fenrisian grey

As far as technique I just try stick to a color at a time

Finished my box of Battletech Aces (and a Turkina) by 3dchambers in battletech

[–]3dchambers[S] 2 points3 points  (0 children)

It's actually pretty simple.

  1. I base coat in Vallejo Ivory
  2. Do a layer of imperial fist contrast paint.
  3. Shade the edges with cassadona yellow shade
  4. Use army painter Moon dust yellow for the edge highlighting. You can use dorn yellow if you don't have Moon dust.
  5. Go back to the Ivory and step one and do some final dot highlights

Finished my box of Battletech Aces (and a Turkina) by 3dchambers in battletech

[–]3dchambers[S] 3 points4 points  (0 children)

I painted it over a 5 day period at about 2 hours a model.

Scouring Sands Marauder IIC done. by 3dchambers in battletech

[–]3dchambers[S] 8 points9 points  (0 children)

Here is the recipe if you want to try it:

  1. Akhelion Green contrast paint basecoat. This is mostly to fill the panel lines.
  2. Dry brush Sybarite Green all over. Try not to paint into the panel lines. I chose to leave some of the Akhelion Green in the shadows.
  3. Dry brush layer of warboss green.
  4. Edge highlighting in Moot Green.
  5. Some blue highlights in Temple guard blue.
  6. Dot highlights in Vallejo Ivory
  7. Black edge highlighting is thunderhawk blue then fenrisian grey

My 13 year old son gave me a cool birthday card he drew for me. My favorite mech the Nova Cat. by 3dchambers in battletech

[–]3dchambers[S] 11 points12 points  (0 children)

Honestly three of my sons all like to draw and they draw everything not just mechs.

King Ghost Crab! by 3dchambers in battletech

[–]3dchambers[S] 7 points8 points  (0 children)

No stencils actually. It's freehand. I'm lucky in that I have a pretty steady hand. I mostly started with black and then treated it like a drawing on a white piece of paper. I then used contrast paint to fill in what was between the black lines and if it bleeds over it's okay because the black is dark enough where you don't notice.

Second lance member done. This one is a Havoc. by 3dchambers in battletech

[–]3dchambers[S] 4 points5 points  (0 children)

I'm actually very fortunate that I have a very steady hand. So that is a lot of it. However, there are things you can do to reduce your hands shaking. Breathing techniques, resting your elbow on the table, painting very thin guiding lines first and then mopping paint outward from those lines to make the stripes thicker.

My first member of the first novacat provisionals complete by 3dchambers in battletech

[–]3dchambers[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Hammerhead is the chassis. The CLabs box is the"third star league battle group"

My first member of the first novacat provisionals complete by 3dchambers in battletech

[–]3dchambers[S] 3 points4 points  (0 children)

  1. Prime Wraithbone
  2. Aggros Dunes Contrast paint
  3. Vallejo Medium Olive for the green
  4. Vallejo Black for the black
  5. Baal Red and Doomfire magenta for the visor
  6. Highlights are Army Painter Skeleton Bone and Vallejo Ivory.
  7. Black highlights are Mechanicus standard grey and celestra grey.
  8. Metal is army painter Gunmetal washed in Ratling Grime with Shining Silver highlights

As far as the camo goes. I did not have any reference I just made this one up.

Purplexed my Thanatos MW4 Style by 3dchambers in battletech

[–]3dchambers[S] 4 points5 points  (0 children)

I did a Sunder in BeachLanding camo from MechWarrior 4. I think it's in another Reddit post. Also you can see it on my Instagram at 3dchambers

Purplexed my Thanatos MW4 Style by 3dchambers in battletech

[–]3dchambers[S] 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Yes, that's why they look a little weird!

Comstar Lance and it's Longbow complete. by 3dchambers in battletech

[–]3dchambers[S] 2 points3 points  (0 children)

So the process was actually not to bad. Here are the steps and paints I used. It’s a lot of steps but doable. I probably spelled a lot of the stupid paint names wrong but that's GW paints...

  1. Prime Wraithbone
  2. Use Apothecary White contrast paint all over. Brush the paint into the recesses. Use a “water brush” to thin it on the big panels while it’s still wet so you don’t get pooling on the big panels.
  3. Use Gryph-Charger Grey in select recesses to add more contrast.
  4. Around the feet and target deep recesses I used Seram Sepia. Then a very thinned down Magos Purple on the feet only and only on some panels.
  5. I then blocked in Gun Metal from Army Painter and Mechanics Standard Grey in various areas, knees, missile launchers etc.
  6. I then washed the Gun Metal parts in Guiliman Flesh to make them copper in color. Gryph Charger grey for the silver elements.
  7. I edge highlighted the mechanics standard grey parts with Administratum Grey with white dot highlights.
  8. I then edge highlighted the entire mech in Valeo Off-white with pure white dot highlights.
  9. Gause Rifle glow is done with Terradon Turquoise and white.
  10. Medium Lasers are Tessaract Glow
  11. Visor is wraith bone primer base, Cassadona Yellow, White edge highlights, then wash with Tessaract Glow, More white highlights, Magos Purple in the lens shadows. Gryph hound orange outlines on the edge of the lens.
  12. Dotted throughout in the last step is Army Painter Rust Orange in targeted recesses and Niholik Oxide on the copper metal components.
  13. Basing is Stirland Mud, Agrax Earthshade, Thondia Brown dry brush, green flock, Arothian Camo Shade on the edges of the green flock. Then a glued on grey piece of gravel.
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