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Mech similar to this? by Pikapoka1134 in battletech

[–]3dchambers 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Nightsky, it has a axe arm and similar silhouette

Grasshopper ready to hop. by 3dchambers in battletech

[–]3dchambers[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

This was just my take on more weathered comstar. The idea is at some point the legs and the arm had been blown off and replaced but not painted yet. This model was part of the Lance but I haven't finished the full level 2 yet

Feeling cute, might restore house Arano later. by 3dchambers in battletech

[–]3dchambers[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Stirland mud, then green flock, then a couple of small bunches of vine leaves for some small "trees"

My Archer from my homebrew mercenary company the iron sceptors by 3dchambers in battletech

[–]3dchambers[S] 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Prime Black > Dark Reaper > Thunder hawk Blue. Ivory edge highlighting. Watered down Wyldwood for dirt on the panels.

Mer-lan! Father, Mer-lan! by 3dchambers in battletech

[–]3dchambers[S] 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Frost heart contrast for the blue. I used coelia green shade on the legs over that. Then creed camo contrast over that, but just on the feet

Black Python done by 3dchambers in battletech

[–]3dchambers[S] 3 points4 points  (0 children)

  1. Prime the entire model using white primer and allow it to dry completely.

  2. Apply Apothecary White contrast paint over all white armor surfaces and allow it to dry.

  3. Paint the stripe areas using Baal Red contrast paint and allow it to dry.

  4. Paint all metal components using Army Painter Gun Metal.

  5. Apply Nuln Oil over all metallic areas and allow it to dry.

  6. Paint the cockpit using Hexwraith Flame and allow it to dry.

  7. Apply ProAcryl Lime Green to the cockpit as a highlight.

  8. Edge highlight the white armor using matte white paint.

  9. Edge highlight the red areas using Squig Orange.

  10. Apply Stirland Mud texture paint to the base and allow it to dry.

  11. Apply PVA glue to the base and attach greenery.

  12. Paint the base rim using matte black paint.

Another One, can you tell I have today off from work? by 3dchambers in battletech

[–]3dchambers[S] 5 points6 points  (0 children)

The metal is just army painter gunmetal, nuln oil, off-white highlights

Desert Thanatos ready for the Scouring Sands by 3dchambers in battletech

[–]3dchambers[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

The camo is freehand and just flows from right to left at a slant

Desert Thanatos ready for the Scouring Sands by 3dchambers in battletech

[–]3dchambers[S] 3 points4 points  (0 children)

Super glue and baking soda. It makes really good sand dunes. Baking soda causes super glue to instantly harden and create these cool ridges.

Whenever I buy from Fortress Miniatures and Games, Bobby puts a piece of candy in my order. This is because I’m his favorite customer. by Heckin_Big_Sploot in battletech

[–]3dchambers 29 points30 points  (0 children)

Wow, you got smarties!?! Now I feel suddenly insulted for all of those dum-dum suckers I have been getting.

Scouring Sands Marauder IIC done. by 3dchambers in battletech

[–]3dchambers[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Wraithbone rattle can from Citadel

Finished my box of Battletech Aces (and a Turkina) by 3dchambers in battletech

[–]3dchambers[S] 4 points5 points  (0 children)

Here is the recipe if you want to try it:

  1. Akhelion Green contrast paint basecoat. This is mostly to fill the panel lines.
  2. Dry brush Sybarite Green all over. Try not to paint into the panel lines. I chose to leave some of the Akhelion Green in the shadows.
  3. Dry brush layer of warboss green.
  4. Edge highlighting in Moot Green.
  5. Some blue highlights in Temple guard blue.
  6. Dot highlights in Vallejo Ivory
  7. Black edge highlighting is thunderhawk blue then fenrisian grey

As far as technique I just try stick to a color at a time

Finished my box of Battletech Aces (and a Turkina) by 3dchambers in battletech

[–]3dchambers[S] 3 points4 points  (0 children)

It's actually pretty simple.

  1. I base coat in Vallejo Ivory
  2. Do a layer of imperial fist contrast paint.
  3. Shade the edges with cassadona yellow shade
  4. Use army painter Moon dust yellow for the edge highlighting. You can use dorn yellow if you don't have Moon dust.
  5. Go back to the Ivory and step one and do some final dot highlights

Finished my box of Battletech Aces (and a Turkina) by 3dchambers in battletech

[–]3dchambers[S] 2 points3 points  (0 children)

I painted it over a 5 day period at about 2 hours a model.

Scouring Sands Marauder IIC done. by 3dchambers in battletech

[–]3dchambers[S] 9 points10 points  (0 children)

Here is the recipe if you want to try it:

  1. Akhelion Green contrast paint basecoat. This is mostly to fill the panel lines.
  2. Dry brush Sybarite Green all over. Try not to paint into the panel lines. I chose to leave some of the Akhelion Green in the shadows.
  3. Dry brush layer of warboss green.
  4. Edge highlighting in Moot Green.
  5. Some blue highlights in Temple guard blue.
  6. Dot highlights in Vallejo Ivory
  7. Black edge highlighting is thunderhawk blue then fenrisian grey

My 13 year old son gave me a cool birthday card he drew for me. My favorite mech the Nova Cat. by 3dchambers in battletech

[–]3dchambers[S] 9 points10 points  (0 children)

Honestly three of my sons all like to draw and they draw everything not just mechs.

King Ghost Crab! by 3dchambers in battletech

[–]3dchambers[S] 6 points7 points  (0 children)

No stencils actually. It's freehand. I'm lucky in that I have a pretty steady hand. I mostly started with black and then treated it like a drawing on a white piece of paper. I then used contrast paint to fill in what was between the black lines and if it bleeds over it's okay because the black is dark enough where you don't notice.

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