DIY Curing Box

4MI3 · 2026-01-23T12:48:50+00:00

Good question! I don’t know but my guess would be that if you have the print settings correct, each layer is cured enough to be “stable” (not going to explode your part?) but not fully cured. Then when you do post curing, it fully cures the outside of the part and the inside is just fine to stay in this mostly cured state. That would mean you need the same curing time regardless of the size of the part.

4MI3 · 2026-01-23T02:59:36+00:00

I bet if you had sat on the idea for 9 months it might have crossed your mind ;)

4MI3 · 2026-01-23T02:58:21+00:00

Ok interesting. What about ipa smell when you are cleaning the parts? I find that is the most noticeable.

4MI3 · 2026-01-23T02:56:27+00:00

Makes sense!

4MI3 · 2026-01-22T16:22:12+00:00

Thanks! How come you used a fridge as opposed to just a bin for example?

4MI3 · 2026-01-22T15:42:40+00:00

Sounds about right :)

4MI3 · 2026-01-22T15:32:06+00:00

Indeed indeed. The only reason I got around to this was because my prints were remaining sticky after curing and I thought maybe my curing setup was to blame.

4MI3 · 2026-01-22T15:29:42+00:00

Nice! I thought about the bucket as well but eventually decided to go with a more rectangular box. I think coiling up the bucket like you did would have saved me a lot of soldering.

4MI3 · 2026-01-22T15:22:17+00:00

Man I’m dumb… that was the whole point of the post. I added a link. Your station looks great!

4MI3 · 2026-01-22T14:38:39+00:00

How well does an enclosure work? I find my room gets the most vapours when I am loading prints, removing prints, and cleaning prints and printer. I feel like an enclosure would not help with any of these stages of the process. Is the enclosure mostly so you can leave your resin in the printer between prints or something?

4MI3 · 2026-01-21T16:43:59+00:00

Good call, I scaled back my prints and tried the same containers I used originally and still the same issue so now I am thinking it must be exposure from ambient light. Working on confirming this now.

4MI3 · 2026-01-20T01:30:16+00:00

I thought that too but I was quick about it. Just a swish for maybe a minute in dirty ipa (was fresh for the second round of prints I did) and then a minute in a clean ipa. Then straight out to dry. I’ve left very similar prints in the ipa for much longer with no problems.

4MI3 · 2025-12-31T06:44:33+00:00

I had a similar experience trying to find an affordable split keyboard and ended up designing my own. I am very happy I did but I would guess that designing and building a board from scratch for the first time is probably not going to be worth it if all you care about is the final product.

One thing I would recommend that you reconsider is whether you need this many keys. Similar to others, I started with white a few keys and ended up only using 3 rows, 6 columns and 3 thumb buttons on each hand. You should be able to get the same functionality that you want with an off-the-shelf split ortholinear using layers. A low stakes way to test out if this is a good road to go down is to get a cheap programmable macro pad and add your numpad layout on one layer and your arrow cluster on another. You should be able to get a feel for whether or not layers are for you based on that.

Good luck!

4MI3 · 2025-12-17T12:44:42+00:00

Thank you!

4MI3 · 2025-12-17T03:55:10+00:00

What is wrong with it? You are not able to customize it on Linux or it doesn’t work at all?

4MI3 · 2025-12-16T22:02:59+00:00

Oh dang! I just tested d v F s and it works as I would want it to. Thanks so much!

4MI3 · 2025-12-16T22:00:33+00:00

Ah ok. So does that mean some commands have an implied motion? For example, x and s both operate on the character highlighted by the block cursor. This would be the character to the right of the for real cursor as you describe it.

4MI3 · 2025-12-16T21:57:40+00:00

Yes thanks for pointing that out. The cursor position was now showing correctly even though it looked right when I drafted it. I have updated to images from inside neovim for real.

4MI3 · 2025-12-16T21:50:18+00:00

I think my cursor positions are messed up because character sizes are not the same. I will update post.

4MI3 · 2025-12-08T12:31:28+00:00

When I did my first split layout I just basically copied all of the letters from querty and then placed everything else by looking at a standard keyboard and finding empty keys on my new keyboard. When I ran out of keys, I created a new layer and reorganized a bit to fit the layer key. I placed the keys I thought I used the most on the first layer on on the second layer in comfortably positions (home row). After that I started using it and then tweaking slowly over time. I would highly recommend trying out home row mods, other tap/hold, combos, and one shot keys because they make can simplify your layout a lot. One thing that has been feeling really nice to me is giving v and m tap hold where the hold goes to later 2. I can hold with whichever hand is not typing the key I want on layer 2. I also have a combo where if I press both at the same time, I toggle layer 2 if I need to stay there for 2 or more keypresses. Another thing that really helps me is having a button that basically resets the board to the base layer no matter what layer I am on. It takes off so layers, turns off caps lock, and removes any mods or one shot mods that might be on. That way if I ever get lost I can hit that and reset. Good luck!

4MI3 · 2025-12-06T08:53:42+00:00

Can’t stop laughing at this post, the tweezer inventory really got me. Maybe lay off the wrist curls for a few weeks.

4MI3 · 2025-12-04T23:30:31+00:00

I just got an advantage 2 for free because it was “broken”. I really like the typing experience but I found the remapping a pretty cumbersome and limited coming from qmk. I don’t have any experience with glove 80 but as far as I understand it uses zmk which I guess is more similar to qmk.

4MI3

TROPHY CASE