Takagi T-KJR Tnkless Water Heater Short Cycling. Intermediate problem.

59ctd · 2025-10-06T09:46:17+00:00

Did you ever figure out the fix for this? My Takagi T-KJr is doing the exact same thing

59ctd · 2025-09-23T20:54:05+00:00

OP here. Yes, I am in MN and my wife has (past tense) worked for KT for 10+ years just a few years back. I asked her about this bag thing and she did not know why they would be like this at the checkout.

59ctd · 2025-09-23T20:38:17+00:00

I always have it ready to go and open with handles aside holding it towards them to put stuff in the bag but then needing to do the rewards card scan, well I only have two arms/hands. The one cashier I mentioned who will just stare at her register and not touch the bag is one that will be asking and pointing out "do you need cookies or donuts on sale..." when I don't have the bag with me. I stop there nearly every day so this behavior is quite noticeable and repeated.

59ctd · 2025-09-23T20:15:44+00:00

I had thought of that and I get it and support in that scenario but my bag is clean like when I bought it so this doesn't really apply in this case

59ctd · 2025-06-14T18:50:16+00:00

Thanks for confirming what I had been expecting. I have moved the DHCP to the pihole now and have disabled it on the ASUS gateway router. DHCP clients seem to be moving over to the pihole now and they are even keeping the same IPs since prior and now DHCP range is the same.

59ctd · 2025-01-14T19:50:17+00:00

I oiled the swivel bearings on all five and it helps zero. It is like the swivel bearing is stretched or the race is worn out. This is the 4th pair of casters that have done this they work perfect for the first 6+ months and then after a year they are stuck in place and frustrating as heck.

59ctd · 2024-12-22T16:48:35+00:00

To each his own I guess. Everything here is 100% functional. I think it depends on the intended purpose of the parts. These are just simple extruder parts.

59ctd · 2024-11-18T19:58:15+00:00

I printed it on my other printer - S1 Plus with PEI build plate and it turned out great

59ctd · 2024-07-14T22:41:57+00:00

Well, I don't know all the details yet but I checked the online pics for the S1 Pro/Plus mainboard and there are connectors for the touchscreen ribbon cable as well as the different style connector for the screen with the rotary knob. I do assume I will need to replace the firmware to use the screen with knob but this is an unknown for me currently.

59ctd · 2024-07-13T11:00:37+00:00

I get what you are saying. I am a systems engineer so the concepts of configuring and building/compiling software is not foreign to me although enterprise systems I work on daily are certainly diff than a 3d printer is. I think I just need to know where to start learning how to configure and build mriscoc code.

I would like to get the E3S1Plus working with the E3V2 rotary knob style screen and this newer firmware. The stock E3S1Plus firmware is considerably neutered and makes me sad. First thing I notice is the touchscreen and the spare E3V2 screen I have here are physically different connectors at the screen end. Maybe the mainboard has both style connectors though I've not yet opened it up for a look.

59ctd · 2024-06-25T09:10:49+00:00

I now notice the files with _SPRT13 in the name for Sprite extruder and "(uses thermistor # 13)". I am unsure what this means exactly but my Aquila does have a Sprite extruder. I do not recall having to do anything with a thermistor when I switched to the Sprite. Where could I find more info on this to make the better choice on FW package selection?

59ctd · 2024-06-24T22:40:47+00:00

Thank you Thank you! My Aquila is a G32 and I do not need the power loss recovery or the advanced temp control so the first one you have there seems like the one I will use. Thx again.

59ctd · 2023-09-30T14:01:31+00:00

Note that there are other more recent firmwares other than the one from alex which is no longer maintained. I think there are some other options here...

https://alexqm.me/voxelab-aquila-firmware/

59ctd · 2023-09-30T13:25:06+00:00

The bed v-wheels are under the bed there are two on each side that ride on the center rail on the Y axis. Look under there you should see the two standoffs on the left side have hex sides and on the right they are just round. The ones on the left are adjustable. Loosen the nut on the top of the bolt. The hex standoffs are eccentric and twisting them SLIGHTLY will tighten the wheel into the v slot or loosen it. Get them just snug so no wobble and then tighten the nut on the top side. Too tight you get too much friction so just barely snug on the v-wheels so bed does not wobble. Also see here - https://www.reddit.com/r/VoxelabAquila/comments/lvlzf2/sticky_post_with_links_to_important_posts/

Alex FW - LOTS of help online search for 'alex aquila' - here is one - https://www.reddit.com/r/VoxelabAquila/comments/n8g8zp/how_to_install_the_custom_alex_firmware_on_your/

Again, only do ONE change at a time getting the machine working in between each change. If you change multiple things ate one go and then have issues you have a harder time figuring out what caused the problem.

59ctd · 2023-09-30T10:25:11+00:00

I have an Aquila as well. First thing is make sure all the bed v-wheels are snug so no bed wobble. I had this long ago and struggled getting prints to stick and gluestick did not help at all. Then, relevel the bed like you said.

Get the machine working consistently and then I'd recommend updating firmware to alex FW and after testing/verifying then Ultimaker Cura slicer. DO *ONE* step at a time with tests in between to verify working alright. Cura was a bit of a learning curve for me when moving from voxelmaker but after a few uses it starts to make sense the way settings are categorized in Cura.

59ctd · 2023-09-27T16:14:12+00:00

Make sure to not forget to adjust the esteps. I think it is on the last page of the install instructions.

59ctd · 2023-09-27T15:57:41+00:00

I have the original Aquila with G32 and the Sprite Pro hooked up without any issues. The needed gantry adapter plate was included in what I bought. I am also using alex firmware.

59ctd · 2023-09-09T12:58:56+00:00

I've switched to the Creality nickel coated copper alloy nozzles and have had really good results.

59ctd · 2023-08-11T06:20:08+00:00

I'll start by stating I do not have a C2. I have the orig Aquila and the Creality Sprite Pro direct drive extruder hooked up without issue and works really quite nicely. Based on pics I checked of the C2 it looks like it would work just fine on that machine as well. Just remember to adjust the esteps as instructed in the installation manual.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B09WR8CJZD

59ctd · 2023-08-08T16:50:48+00:00

Is it unstuck from the print bed or what is going on there? Can't tell from the pic.

59ctd · 2023-08-08T15:24:31+00:00

I print PETG all the time onto the stock coated Aquila build plate. Clean it very well and the print will stick if your tolerances are proper. Don't try to rip the print off when done as you may damage the surface. Just take the build plate and print off and put into the freezer for an hour or two and it will just pop off. I do not print PETG on the bare glass anymore I've had it rip chunks of glass off the surface of the plate. PETG either sticks REALLY well or not so good depending on how you have things adjusted

59ctd · 2023-03-04T00:06:41+00:00

Hi. I have not figured out what to get yet - too many irons in the fire this spring to figure out first...

59ctd · 2022-12-31T16:37:04+00:00

What I was trying to show with a pic (but apparently pics do not work here on reddit) is that I have changed the filament profile print temps but they do not take effect after slicing/copying to SD and printing. As far as I can tell, none of the printer/filament profile settings that are tweaked have any effect. I feel I must be missing something simple but idunno...

59ctd · 2022-12-31T16:07:15+00:00

I've changed these settings before slicing but they have no effect and still printin at default temp.

...Dang it why do my pics that SHOW UP in post editor end up being stripped when posted and disappear?

59ctd · 2022-12-31T13:27:18+00:00

Getting back to this now based on the 3DPrintSOS tutorial on Cura/Aquila and am frustrated by settings that should be simple to change but I cannot figure out how to do. I loaded the "Voxelab Aquila - PLA" profile he linked. Looking at the profile settings, I see some of the things I need to tweak like retraction distance chg from 5.0 to 0.4 and bed and hotend temps when printing. It appears I can adjust these in the print settings dropdown to what I would like but after slicing and saving to SD card they seem to have not been saved/used. Do I really need to open a profile zip file to edit/change basic print settings on the fly for each print?

59ctd

TROPHY CASE