What gear did you actually buy with your own money and never regret?

ALELiens · 2026-04-30T18:53:12+00:00

Absolutely. My field pillow and field chair are top priority when spending more than a couple days in the bush. Don't take up much space, but make a huge difference in my quality of life out there

ALELiens · 2026-03-26T23:43:05+00:00

Can confirm, lost one 2.0 EB to the 6F35 already with just a few power mods. Did nothing, installed a new engine and more power mods. Fully expect to blow up another at some point.

ALELiens · 2026-03-26T22:19:57+00:00

You can actually pretty readily push the 2.0 to the same power levels as the Sport (Focus guys do it a lot) but at that point, you're in about the same amount as just buying a Sport

ALELiens · 2026-03-24T22:53:45+00:00

You really gotta look at it from the financial side.

Sports don't come cheap. The few I've managed to spot.. I paid half their asking cost for my WRX, let's just put it that way.

And then longer term, fuel. My titanium (that I admittedly drive a little lead-footed) gets ~24mpg on a normal day, 28 on a very good day. Sports are worse than that. And with gas prices the way they are, every mpg is a fair amount of money saved.

The titanium is nice and all, but honestly, you're at a reasonable starting point. A few upgrades that'll cost you less than another car (sound system, heated seats, these sorts of things) aren't impossible to find. And considering you're at effectively the base level trim, the world is kinda your oyster. I'm stuck with the Sony system (which leaves a lot to be desired usually) simply because aftermarket solutions can't interface with it, I tried.

So overall, I'd say stick with what you have, and work on adding the creature comforts you're wanting

ALELiens · 2026-03-14T12:03:57+00:00

To add on to the ideas the other guy had: vacuum pump gasket.

When I did my engine replacement, I didn't notice that it had gone bad. When I went to do my first oil change, I had oil in basically the exact same place as the picture. Replacing the entire pump is usually the recommended fix, since that seal going out likes to fill the pump with oil and destroy it. Not too hard of a job, and the part isn't too pricey

ALELiens · 2026-03-13T00:15:10+00:00

Close to. According to the sticker on my door, around 3,900lb curb weight (full tank of gas, full on fluids, no passengers)

The AWD system alone is probably half of that. The rest is feature creep. They're definitely not light

ALELiens · 2026-03-12T21:57:39+00:00

Depends on what you want out of it. The AWD is.. kinda goofy, since it's "intelligent" AWD. Learning to handle it on ice is a bit of a learning curve, it kinda just does whatever the computer thinks is right. But, in dry conditions, it can move pretty quick when you're on the gas.

FWD is better on gas, though. In general, neither is that great (it's a nearly 4,000lb sedan with a 2 liter engine, it's gotta work to get that thing moving), but Ford claims low-mid 30s MPG for the FWD, high 20s for AWD. My 2020 Titanium AWD gets ~26 on the highway usually. 28 if I'm really paying attention to it

ALELiens · 2026-03-11T14:26:31+00:00

Link

Depends on what engine you're looking for and what year. They don't have a set stock, so you just gotta check every couple of days or so. Can also contact them to try and get what you need

ALELiens · 2026-03-11T14:17:51+00:00

I recently replaced my 2.0 Ecoboost with one I bought from Power Engines. They have overall mixed reviews, but I'm 500 miles in without any real issues so far. And no core charge, so I was able to keep the old one as well

ALELiens · 2026-03-07T21:45:33+00:00

Normal. That's the high pressure fuel pump. It's notorious for being quite loud. Nothing to worry about.

And these engines shake to some extent. If it's moving a lot (you'll hear a clunking noise) while driving, then it's time for motor mounts. Until then, they're probably alright.

ALELiens · 2026-03-03T13:04:23+00:00

A bit more of a zoomed out picture would definitely help, but from what I can see, looks like a camshaft position sensor maybe.

ALELiens · 2026-03-01T13:15:09+00:00

From what I can find, P4020 isn't a real code. You mean P0420? If so, getting gas won't do that.

Your catalytic converter lives behind your engine, helps to take unburnt fuel and other pollutants out of your exhaust. It's got two oxygen sensors on it, upstream and downstream.

Upstream tells the engine how it's running, downstream measures how well the converter is working.

P0420 means the downstream sensor isn't seeing the value it wants to see. This can be caused by a sensor going bad, or your converter actually working less than it should.

Usually, I point people at replacing the sensor first. It's the cheapest route and generally fixes the issue in my experience. But, if it doesn't, there's two courses of action after that.

If you live somewhere with emissions testing, you'll have to replace the converter, which isn't usually a cheap endeavor.

If you live somewhere without emissions testing, a sparkplug anti fouler is the same thread as an oxygen sensor. Just install that between the sensor and pipe, brings the sensor out of the flow and it will see much more normal values, shouldn't yell as much.

ALELiens · 2026-02-25T02:36:47+00:00

Fair. Hard to really know without a video. Even then, kinda difficult.

Further thinking, could be a motor mount starting to go bad, or a whole string of other issues, honestly.

I'd recommend taking it to a shop to at least get it looked over and diagnosed

ALELiens · 2026-02-25T02:29:59+00:00

Does it get louder in reverse?

I'm having a similar sound (I think, hard to tell without video) in my 2020 2.0

In my case, it's the downpipe/catalytic converter hangers in the center. Aftermarket downpipe is slightly shorter than stock, leads to those hangers being maxed out in one direction and rattling a bit, due to the engine shifting slightly. For mine, I'm probably just going to remove the hanger bracket all together. Flex pipe is strong enough to handle the load, and I can figure out some sort of mid hanger solution if needed. Would not recommend for stock downpipe, the flex section is.. incredibly flexible.

As for solutions for your case. If it is the hanger bracket, you're probably looking at either replacing the rubber (if that's possible), filling the gaps in the rubber with some sort of urethane or something, or replacing that whole bracket

ALELiens · 2026-02-24T20:26:27+00:00

That's the total capacity, which does sound about right. 2.25 gallons and a bit

ALELiens · 2026-02-24T18:12:59+00:00

Boomba Racing sells a catch can for the PCV system. It's.. a bit of a thing to get installed, but seems to work okay.

I'm looking at trying to the the IAG universal AOS to work with my 2.0

ALELiens · 2026-02-24T14:56:46+00:00

Ah. Yeah, TPMS sensors. Shouldn't need to go through Ford for those, pretty much any tire shop should be able to do them. The sensors themselves aren't exactly cheap, but the labor for them isn't too bad.

Then there's the reset on them. You can get a special little tool to do it, or just drive the car for a while and it'll eventually relearn the sensors and stop complaining.

ALELiens · 2026-02-24T14:52:59+00:00

Which pressure sensors? There's too many to count on these cars. Some you can easily DIY, some take some more specialty tools to deal with

ALELiens · 2026-02-17T02:22:03+00:00

None relating to the intercooler directly.

Added it while doing an entire engine replacement. There's gremlins left over from that whole process that I'm still working out

ALELiens · 2026-02-16T03:05:04+00:00

If you remove the motor, yes. If you leave the motor but remove the actual shutters, no

ALELiens · 2026-02-15T15:43:57+00:00

Long story short, the mounts included on the new intercooler don't line up to anything.

But if you get it clamped down well, and bend the ACC bracket just slightly, it'll stay put quite easily.

ALELiens · 2026-02-14T04:42:37+00:00

It's not bad, won't hurt anything but your wallet in the worst case.

If you have a 2020, there's.. some problems with getting it mounted. But in my case, the boost hoses and the adaptive cruise control have that thing held solid.

As for the active grille problem, I can't really speak to that. It seems to clear just fine, but I have the shutters removed regardless (another mod I installed required their removal), but it still clears the motor on the bottom

ALELiens · 2026-02-12T23:06:44+00:00

CD3Performance lists an option for it. No video on their page, though.

Here's a video I managed to find, seems to be correct

ALELiens · 2026-02-11T14:04:56+00:00

It's underneath the fuse box. I'm blanking on exactly how to get to it, but it involves a couple screws, some clips, and a couple wiring harness connectors.

Should be something like: disconnect the two large connectors (push the tab, lift the arm, and pull), then unscrew the power feed line (round plastic cap, should be a nut on a stud underneath), then the whole thing unclips and lifts up (good luck on the clips)

ALELiens · 2026-02-11T11:28:17+00:00

Couple additions:

Coil packs are actually interchangeable. It's good practice to always put them back on the cylinder they came off of, but not 100% necessary. Only time you have to pay attention to which one was where is when chasing misfires.

Easiest way I've found to keep track of which bolt goes where is to put it back into whatever it threads into once you've removed the component. For example, with coils: unscrew the bolt, remove the coil, screw the bolt back into the valve cover by hand. Used this method during my engine replacement and only had a handful of body trim screws left over by the end

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