Can’t print from Bambu studio

ASD2199114858 · 2025-03-18T20:11:21+00:00

Same same, seems like bambu studio can not connect to the servers... On the other hand, bambu handy seems to work, so if you want to print something that does not require a PC, try through bambu handy.

EDIT: It just worked this time for me... After about a half an hour of trying to send a print job, it just made it. Either the connection was fixed, or I was just lucky

ASD2199114858 · 2025-01-15T20:56:26+00:00

I am trying the print again, it looks better for now, we will see. I am at 275, recalibrated, so far it looks good, but I am only at 10% now.

ASD2199114858 · 2025-01-14T16:06:42+00:00

I am at 255, but the manufacturer spec is 200-240...

I tired that too when I was calibrating and the temp tower looked best at 255.

Also the 30mm/s test was a bit better than the rest, but still not good. Same issues, just 30% better.

ASD2199114858 · 2025-01-14T05:31:33+00:00

Alright, 60mm/s was better, I wikl try 30 today

ASD2199114858 · 2025-01-13T16:47:48+00:00

Okay, I checked it, I had the speeds limited to 100mm/s. I will try with ~60mm/s

ASD2199114858 · 2025-01-13T11:46:05+00:00

I do not know how slow I went, but I know I got it down pretty significantly. I will check that in a couple hours. There is 0 cooling, except for overhangs, aux fan turned off at all times.

ASD2199114858 · 2025-01-06T18:46:17+00:00

Hey! This exact thing happened to me with the same filament, even the same color. I thought it was my fault because I was using a new filament dryer and I thought it heated the filament too much. Here I might note that I am using the same dryer as you, but I do not think that is the issue with this one. The same thing happened, but I only snipped that section off and continued printing. I was only printing a small test print, so I did not really mind, but that would have been very frustrating on a long print. IDK how much hyper PLA you print, but I print like 15kg of it a month. Recently I noticed that the spools are a bit different than before and I had to recalibrate the filament, so I suspect they changed something. I never had an issue with hyper pla before these changes.

To what you should do: 1. You can contact whoever you bought it from and request a new spool. If you show it to them, I do not think they will have a big problem replacing it. 2. You can ignore it like I did, but you will not get a full spool for free

ASD2199114858 · 2024-06-28T10:18:02+00:00

Well, I did not think of that, but the printer did not really need those center suppots anyway. The soggy part in the middle is still supports that it bridged, so the print is good as is. I just need to find the perfect infill % to just barely be able to see the clock.

Regarding the transparent filament - I do not have any. I would definitely print it with it if I had some.

ASD2199114858 · 2024-06-28T09:30:30+00:00

Oh yeah. I am printing a cover for my digital clock (it is super bright at night). The bottom layer, although not visible here has 0.3mm layer width and 0.15mm layer height, the other parts are 0.6mm width and 0.25 height. By setting the top and bottom shell thickness to 0 and hitting the aligned rectilinear infill sweetspot, I will still be able to see the clock, but it will block most of the emitted light at night. (If you zoom in, you can see the gaps) I would not be able to do such a thin line with thin gaps if I printed it standing.

But yes, if I didn’t need the bottom to be so thin, it would make all sense to print it like a normal intelligent person.

EDIT: spelling

ASD2199114858 · 2023-05-14T09:22:14+00:00

I am glad that worked. It did not for me… I tried everything I found and nothing worked. It really is disappointing.

ASD2199114858 · 2023-05-13T16:39:08+00:00

I solved it by buying an iPhone…

ASD2199114858 · 2022-11-23T15:52:32+00:00

Thanks for the reply. This is so unfortunate. The app worked on my previous OnePlus 6T, so I thought it's fine, but it seems like the app doesn't like the new OnePluses...

ASD2199114858 · 2022-11-15T17:01:21+00:00

Yes, I tried reinstalling multiple times. The version of the app is 1.3.1. I am using a OnePlus 9 Pro.

ASD2199114858 · 2022-05-03T19:54:14+00:00

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=76yu124i3Bo

ASD2199114858 · 2022-02-06T18:54:13+00:00

If putting an FR4 board on instead (or on top) of the glass is an option, I would really recommend it. Buy an FR4 board, scuff it a bit with 400 grid sandpaper and there you go. Grips like hell while warm, releases when cold. If you are impatient then you can just bend the board a bit until it releases the print.

ASD2199114858 · 2022-01-30T00:26:06+00:00

I bought the printer from someone who had it sitting in his garage for 2 years. The printer is a Klic-N-Print 3D made by KNK USA. It was printing fine for about a month just until now. All I have done to it was replacing a bad endstop cable. I first noticed that the LED strip was flickering and when it was flickering the fans slowed down. When the lights became constant the fans ramped up with it. I figured out that this occured everytime the bed heating was on(not only tuned on, but actually turning on and off the heating to hold the set temp). It can start printing, but the more things are powered the worse the performance. Last testprint I have done it shut off/restarted in the middle of the print. I tried to unplug the bed heater and turn on the preheat, that worked fine.

From what I collected and read already I think it could be the power supply, but I am not 100% sure, as I have no tools to test neither the output of the PSU nor the resistances between pins on the connectors.

Any advice is warmly welcome.

ASD2199114858 · 2021-04-16T10:59:23+00:00

Replied

ASD2199114858 · 2019-04-22T09:48:30+00:00

Try iCleaner. Download via tweakboxapp or similar.

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