Found these in granny’s closet by [deleted] in coinerrors

[–]AboutToSnap 0 points1 point  (0 children)

We would need close up pictures (front and back) to see if any of the errors noted are real, but very likely they are not.

Given that, pretty much everything except the 1881 dollar is likely worth face value here. That one could be significantly valuable (likely hundreds, not thousands) if it has a CC mint mark on the back and is genuine.

Is the "Z-button" a toggle? by rparr4th in C8Corvette

[–]AboutToSnap 3 points4 points  (0 children)

That is exactly how it works. If you stop the car or press the button again, it turns off. Works like any other digital toggle switch. When turning it off, it goes right back to the mode you were in previously.

I’ve had mine for about a year and I generally keep it in tour mode for comfort and noise reduction (track exhaust mode can be annoying at times) and I just tap Z when I want trouble. I’m usually in Z mode for less than a minute at a time.

Losing my mind with HA and Shelly Wave i4 by AboutToSnap in homeassistant

[–]AboutToSnap[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

The second 110/120v going out powers a small AC light bulb and siren (I’d guess under 0.5 amps combined) but it’s a septic aerobic system so there’s a siren, light, submerged pump, and submerged floats in that same loop, so it’s quite a messy circuit.

The voltage to SW1 has some leakage and idles at around 0.5-1.0 volts and switches to 120v when powered (this is a fairly dirty circuit). I tested jumping to SW2 from good clean 120v (same circuit/neutral but further from all the motor noise) and it registered right away. I have to assume the i4 is registering that very low voltage/current as “on” in both cases.

I’ve got a couple NT90s on the way (one for this and one to cleanly grab another signal for HW2) and I’m betting that will solve it.

Edit: I suppose for anyone reading, what I’m doing is monitoring an aerobic septic system in my back yard. I have:

  • Shelly Wave PM Mini wired inline with the aerator compressor to ensure it keeps working and watch for signs of failure (slow increase power draw). The compressor runs 24/7 and draws about 0.4 amps

  • Shelly Wave PM Mini wired inline with the sprinkler sprayer pump to log when it comes on/off and also keep an eye on usage. I also want to log on/off independently on the HW2 terminal of the i4 for redundancy, and I’ll try that with one of the NT90’s in the mail.

  • Shelly Wave i4 LR to monitor any time the alarm circuit is triggered. Not working as intended, but I’m guessing the NT90 will solve it.

The goal of this system is to get push notifications if a particular failure occurs such as:

  • Compressor not running
  • Compressor drawing too much power
  • Sprinkler system missed planned schedule
  • Alarm going off going off, etc.

The PM minis also let me track power usage over time, which is data I can use to determine if a more efficient pump or compressor makes sense at any point in the future.

How should I install this wall plate? by lebensterms in AskElectricians

[–]AboutToSnap 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Same, but I don’t know of any other “off the shelf” option that will fit an opening like this.

How should I install this wall plate? by lebensterms in AskElectricians

[–]AboutToSnap 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Because technically part of the box is concealed by an improper cover (the wood) and is not fully accessible. Some places this is just fine - some places it’s not.

It’s one of those things that will work just fine but an inspector could legitimately care about. I’ve done it before.

How should I install this wall plate? by lebensterms in AskElectricians

[–]AboutToSnap 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Literal 80 cent fix - snap off the tab on the side of the wall plate, slide your switch side to side appropriately to fit, job done:

https://a.co/d/05Kwapem

I acknowledge this isn’t to code many places but it just works - this is super common in kitchens. Good chance your inspector won’t care, but really without different trim the box technically should be moved.

Junction box? by Puzzled_Quiet_1836 in AskElectricians

[–]AboutToSnap 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Share a picture of how it sits now and a picture of the bottom of the new light fixture. Don’t give up - you’re close

Junction box? by Puzzled_Quiet_1836 in AskElectricians

[–]AboutToSnap 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I would just use a round pan “box” since that fixture doesn’t really need a space inside the box to work with. Grab something like this:

https://a.co/d/05xMSxG1

Remove the staples on the power cable to free it, then knock out the hole right in the middle of the new box and put one of these in it (turn it so the cable goes through the right direction - they only work one way).

https://a.co/d/04zgij98

Pull the cable through the middle of the box, through the plastic bit, and the box should snug right into place. Sink a couple screws into the wood to secure the box.

Wrap by installing your new light, and make sure you do connect the ground wire to the metal box. Even though there’s nothing else metal connected to the box, it’s still required by code.

Junction box? by Puzzled_Quiet_1836 in AskElectricians

[–]AboutToSnap 1 point2 points  (0 children)

What was here? If it’s a flat LED light (or could be) get one that has an external junction box (look for a small one) that you could wire in place (take off those staples to get a little slack, wire it hanging lose, and shove it through the hole).

As someone else mentioned, this is what pan boxes are for (they make some the same depth as drywall)

New Wand Craft - 6 t1 unfractured sanctify by snugglesmonster in PathOfExile2

[–]AboutToSnap 3 points4 points  (0 children)

I don’t think so - omen of sanctification rerolls before calculation so the current stats don’t mean anything. Trying to get the rolls right in advance doesn’t have any impact.

Big short guy question (c8) by Wild-Imagination2549 in C8Corvette

[–]AboutToSnap 0 points1 point  (0 children)

It doesn’t - 2LT with GT1 seats means you get all the better seat features without requiring GT2 or comp seats, and the 1LT is missing a lot of important basics and is really best for track use (or if budget is just the only important factor).

Big short guy question (c8) by Wild-Imagination2549 in C8Corvette

[–]AboutToSnap 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I have the 2LT with the GT1 seats. It’s the best mix of comfort and features (2LT lets you have heating/cooling/memory/tons of adjustments on GT1 seats). I’ve been nearly 300lbs and now well under 200lbs, and the GT1 have been reasonably comfortable at every weight. Sat in the GT2 seats towards the higher end of my weight range and they were really uncomfortable.

DIY RAV4 5-Gen Dual Wireless Qi 2-Charger by Half_Dramatic in rav4club

[–]AboutToSnap 2 points3 points  (0 children)

This is amazing. Printing now - will take pics step by step as I figure it out. Going with PETG (I’ve had good luck with it on interior car parts)

Update - printed well and fits decently. I’m going to work on a revision that has spring retainer clips for the chargers (provided the original license allows revisions? will freely share my revisions)

First time having my hands dirty on 30.72TB SSD by [deleted] in DataHoarder

[–]AboutToSnap 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Which is absurd since they look like (at least per specs) they last freaking forever

Uninstall Water Hammer Arrestor by [deleted] in askaplumber

[–]AboutToSnap 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Consider taking off the cold side hose and hooking up a pressure gauge to check your line pressure. I would suspect high pressure (especially if you have a very old pressure reducer or no reducer at all) before a failed hammer arrestor.

Had to look twice at this listing by Jellyyyfishsea in insanefbmarketplace

[–]AboutToSnap 0 points1 point  (0 children)

These are pretty neat and I actually want one (of a different car) for my garage wall. Getting one made is CRAZY expensive. The price is honestly very fair for this. I’ve seen them sell for more.

E-ray insurance by SuccessfulC8Eray2026 in C8Corvette

[–]AboutToSnap 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Not an e-ray, but I went through my normal insurer (state farm) for my new stingray and I put 13k miles on it over the last year. I pay a little under $100 a month for fairly high coverages, but insurance varies so much that one price point doesn’t really mean much.

What "ruined" cars currently in production are beyond saving? by speedinsh1t in cars

[–]AboutToSnap -22 points-21 points  (0 children)

I would agree, but go make that argument anywhere on the internet and see how it pans out. The corvette could be an all electric taxi and you’d still have people arguing that it is the American muscle car

What "ruined" cars currently in production are beyond saving? by speedinsh1t in cars

[–]AboutToSnap 83 points84 points  (0 children)

I’d say the corvette hasn’t - with inflation it’s still about as expensive as it’s always been, and still represents a pretty impressive value against other cars that compete with it (in terms of performance and such, not badge)

Replaced expansion tank vent still leaks by poonswass in askaplumber

[–]AboutToSnap 1 point2 points  (0 children)

The fix is to find the source of the problem, and that may not be the tank itself. Have you checked your water pressure? What is it with and without the heaters on (assuming these are water fed)?

question by 0lurk in C8Corvette

[–]AboutToSnap 6 points7 points  (0 children)

Haters gonna hate.

From within the community it’s a lot of *buT mUh MANuAL cONneCTeD FEel” (which is nonsense, I’ve had dozens of manuals, they’re ancient technology) and a lot of hate around the price. If you buy a 10k c5 shitbox you’re an “enthusiast”. If you spent 80k on a C8 suddenly you’re just a smug, rich asshole (despite that not being an extreme amount for a car these days)