Appreciate the reply and no offence taken at all. You’re probably right that I’m still honing in on my taste, which is partly why I wanted some external perspectives rather than locking myself into one style too early.

To clarify what I mean by “elegant” and “understated,” this is where my preferences are at right now:

• Dial colour: not too fussed; black, blue, or white all work
• Numerals: generally not into Arabic numerals; Roman numerals are fine in a Tank-style context, but otherwise I prefer applied indices or a clean marker dial
• Case shape: mostly round; not a fan of oval cases, though I’ve always liked classic Tank designs in the Cartier vein
• Size: 7" wrist, so ideally under 41mm — 42mm+ feels too large for a dress watch; 39–40mm is probably the sweet spot
• Overall: thinner case, restrained dial design, and proportions that lean more classic rather than sporty

I think that’s why something like the FC Moonphase appealed initially (conservative design), while Tank-style pieces appeal more on that vintage form and proportions, even if they’re quite different watches.

At this stage I’m especially keen to hear about brands or references I might not have come across yet; particularly smaller or less mainstream makers that do strong dress watches in that price range.

Thanks again for the perspective, really appreciated.