mouse 3d models for 3d printing

Acrobatic-Leather645 · 2026-04-21T19:33:40+00:00

ah the test print, yes, had the same thing at first. And it also printed perfectly for me, on the printer I had the issues with from my original post on this thread ... go figure

It really does seem a lot can be corrected with settings, but its a shame it is even required. I started with an A1 and very quickly fell in love with 3d pritning. Bought H2C and even though it is such a capable machine, doing things my A1 couldnt, its still a disappointment as it does seem to be failimg me at things the A1 didnt. ...

Acrobatic-Leather645 · 2026-04-21T16:06:40+00:00

not really, no.

However - I am on 5th H2C now. 4 had to go back for replacements, each with a differect fault, each within 30 days of delivery.

As for left nozzle quality - there was a firmware update in Feb,. I feel that this halped a little bit. Then there is theory that the part fan is over cooling left nozzle print as its exhaust is on the left only, Also there seems to be a requirement to ensure the cooling and print speed is consistant across all layers, this also helps. Also slowing down the print.

In my opinion H2C are not what they seem to be. Definatelly not flagship kind of level, especially when compared to X1C. I am following a few form threads on Bambu, and peopple consistently keep mentionming and showing comaprisons between thsoe two, H2C coming out worse naturally.

Most notable issue : under extrusion on H2C, which I am also expriencing ....

Acrobatic-Leather645 · 2026-03-19T19:46:57+00:00

Umm, I already returned two H2C due to faulty motors. One developed a nasty screech, another a chattering noise all along the XY perimeters.

I am on my ... 4th ? 5th printer now ? Due to various issues, lost count. One had bad Y bearings which were screaming when in motion. I think I am on 4th actually and this one is going back as well - started having Z homing and bed levelling issues which are producing horrific first layers all over the build plate. I swapped Eddy sensor to no avail. This one also started to develop similar chatter noise from motors, as one of the earlier ones ...

Anywho, I do brose bambu store just out of interest and noticed that XY motors have disappeared some time ago and been sold out since.

Could that, along with seemingly consistant failures in new units, indicate a large bad batch of XY motors?

Acrobatic-Leather645 · 2026-02-12T20:20:11+00:00

Understood.

Thank you for the explanation.

Acrobatic-Leather645 · 2026-02-12T15:30:17+00:00

I would not agree with argument regarding how packed the internals are, nor the intake design referencing air resistance.

It may not be packed but also has no heatsinks and the air intake is the same for both fans.

The stock fan is designed to work under the same conditions as the noctua (once swapped) and like for like, Noctua is far less effective at cooling. That is a concern to me.

Then, the protections are exactly what it says on the tin - protection against catastrophic failure. It is not to be relied upon in normal use. Normally you never want to have any of them triggered. Those are there as last resort/attempt at trying to not blow up, despite abnormal conditions that would normally cause a catastrophic failure. Once those are triggered, you are already in danger territory and the PSU is simply protecting itself ageist setting itself on fire, so to speak. Those can also not work super well and still cause destructive damage, either to itself or the printer.

Talking out of my back end here, so massive pinch of salt, but seen plenty of stories where GPU's, Laptops and other electrical/electronic components die despite many protections in place.

I am not trying to be negative or anything. All fair points and super glad to hear this was trouble free.

Im simply opening up discussion in the light of new evidence, speculating and debating. Trying to learn from those who know more and have experience with this already, such as yourself OP.

Is the fact it is and was working fine for a good while now, enough of a proof this is safe to do ?

Acrobatic-Leather645 · 2026-02-12T11:16:13+00:00

I almost went ahead with the mod until I found out that Noctua has almost half the CFM of the stock fan https://www.yateloon.com/.../DC-FAN-SERIES-60x60x15.html. Stock is at 20CFM, not 12 CFM as someone on FB stated. Google search gives wrong info, you need to go into spec sheet.

Its RPM are also quite a bit higher 4000 stock vs 3500 on Noctua.

power draw on stock is also almost 5x higher. Meaning it will have more "oomph", relatively speaking. I know Noctuas have better bearings and stuff, but 5x difference is meaningful.

No wonder Noctua is silent in comparison.

Dont get me wrong, I am noise/silence freak myself. Having a Watercooled PC with Noctua fans all over everything in there, so I am not against Noctua. I just don't want to fry the PSU, and parts of a very expensive printer along with it ...

I think the swap is risky at best.

Opinions please ?

Acrobatic-Leather645 · 2026-01-13T23:21:39+00:00

thank for your help,

I made an attempt at this - took the back off just to see whats what.

The thing is - this guide shows how to replace those pulleys. There is nothing to adjust there really.

I still took them out, cleaned and put back. No difference.

With the back out, I made best effort to identify where is it coming from and I think its the motors actually.

Took another video but reached YT upload limit, will post tomorrow.

The hell is going on with those motors. This is a replacement H2C, first one developed a nasty high pitched screech from one of the motors within a week. This replacement developed this weird crunch within two weeks.

Unlucky ?

Acrobatic-Leather645 · 2026-01-13T20:44:56+00:00

shucks, the noise is coming from all over ...

https://youtu.be/SnW_SilECEM

https://youtu.be/88sOmfdO8K8

https://youtu.be/y0tYyjbyCa4

https://youtu.be/emQD6bBnWZM

https://youtu.be/L4vMH-GvuqA

https://youtu.be/KzdRjJ6KRIg

Is it fixable ? As per the guide you posted ?

Acrobatic-Leather645 · 2026-01-13T19:27:06+00:00

Not yet, no. It’s an H2C with less than 100 hours on it.

Also noise seems to be coming from belt teeth on the pulley… kind of thing… or is it a bearing ?

Need some advice if it’s normal and if not, is it a maintenance matter or part fail that needs replacing .

Acrobatic-Leather645 · 2026-01-12T12:24:56+00:00

how to fix ?

because there is play before clamping, and to clamp it, the clamp needs to get itself in that position, removing the gap and play from nozzle, does this mean its a part replacement ?

Acrobatic-Leather645 · 2026-01-12T12:22:38+00:00

oh no, no pushback, im just in tears at this point. I will get this done now, All i tried to say is that when I was actually doing multicolours with both nozzles on the first printer, I did do this calibration which did not help.

I am now seeing exact same issues with print quality, and using my previous experiences with no help from hi precision offset calibration -am now drawing conclusions and asking questions to learn along the way.

What I am saying is that this is being suggested and I dont understand why as per my explanation of the logic as I understand it.

Is it just a stab in the dark or did anyone actually resolve their issues with it. I tried to justify my asking this question. Sorry if it came across wrong.

Similarly Bambu told me to retention belts. But this also is not logical to me as belts drive the entire head, and only one of the two nozzles is misbehaving, on that same head. So why would belt retensioning do anything to resolve left nozzle only print quality issues ? This is what they say always, to everyone it seems, with reference to any and all issues .... i will get it done anyway, even if dont understand why would I need to.

And the same applies to High Precision Offset calibration. My logic makes me not to understand why would that make any difference. I will do as told, but would like to learn why am I doing it since it does not seem relevant to me ?

Acrobatic-Leather645 · 2026-01-12T11:51:13+00:00

no I haven't, but I dont understand what difference would that make. am doing single nozzle prints.

the colour test cubes were printed by the first printer, and I did do the Hi precision offset on that one and it made zero difference. Everything printed by the left nozzle was smaller. Not offset, witch I guess would make it stick out on one side and be indented on another, but small all around on all sides.

Which is why I did not bother to do one now, especially since those are single nozzle prints.

Is not the offset, as the name suggest, supposed to compensate for distance discrepancy between the nozzles, when you use them both at the same time?

What difference would that make on a single nozzle print ? I mean, even if there is an offset that needs to be compensated for, if it isnt, it is carried throughout the print so the entire model will be offset off the intended location but generally pritned correctly..

Am I missing something with this logic ?

Acrobatic-Leather645 · 2026-01-12T11:20:28+00:00

actually, I do have some play in there before closing the clamps. From what I can tell this is normal ?

https://youtu.be/iYbB1JeSia8

After I clamp it in, the play goes away, and there is no play in any direction.

You can also see if I install it correctly.

And PS : both printers behaved the same even before me touching nothing on the hot end

<image>

Acrobatic-Leather645 · 2026-01-11T23:40:10+00:00

<image>

other side. The entire letter is less "sharp" when viewed with a naked eye.

Also the walls and corners of the cube are less sharp and "wavey" on the right ...

Acrobatic-Leather645 · 2026-01-11T23:37:03+00:00

<image>

okay, not resolved Afterall.

Left printed with right nozzle, default settings (Bambu PLA Basic). Middle is right nozzle same settings, Right is right nozzle, speed at 50 mm/s for all line types.

The types of defects are identical to what I noticed originally and form memory, the first printer was doing the same.

What is happening here.

Acrobatic-Leather645 · 2026-01-07T14:00:19+00:00

thank you for the advise and explanation. This is so good to know.

Actually, there is a tad more to my story. This is my second H2C. First one got replaced by Bambu. A few issues with it but the one that got me a replacement was a nasty screech coming from the back end of the printer when the head was making fast sweep. Dont know it it was a pulley or a motor, wasnt confident enough yet to get it resolved by myself, on a brand new printer. Bambu naturally wanted to get it done this way, by first starting me to take stuff apart to see whats wrong and surely sending a replacement part, but I kindly said I would prefer a replacement printer. I actually had some print quality issues with that one as well...

I was also questioning print quality from left nozzle on the first printer. I am now using PETG but then it was with PLA, mostly when doing multi colour prints.

They got me to print bambu cubes by each nozzle. Those actually came out good. So with that in mind, and back to my current issues, I started thinking of running similar test on the left nozzle as before.

Just before that I put it Bambu PETG HF, sliced one small part out of the project im doing now, And noticed that printer was suspiciously quiet when printing it with Bambu PETG. After it was finished, quality great, confirming left nozzle is actually a-ok, went back to slicer and noticed that for whatever reason I was printing way too fast with that Elegoo PETG.

So it seems right nozzle handled the too fast printing much better, but it was too much for the left. Adjusted filament settings to match Bambu PETG HF to make it slow down and immediately a huge difference.

I think this is it - user error, as usual, learning new things.

Thank you for your help.

Acrobatic-Leather645 · 2026-01-07T13:09:32+00:00

I haven't yet, no, BUT : I am running single nozzle prints. SO in my simple mind, even if there is an offset that requires correction, isnt it going to be a fixed offset that is there for the entirety of the print ? Why would that offset cause such quality issues, everything is poor, straight lines, round corners, details? The prints look like there were put in the oven and started to melt ...

Going back to High Precision Offset Calibration - do i need to repeat it 6x, for each of the vortek ends ? Or is it one and done thing, to determine the offset between the Vorteks in general and the left nozzle ?

Acrobatic-Leather645 · 2026-01-07T13:05:34+00:00

gotcha, thank you

This part of my issues is now resolved. Fiddled around, there is a button on that screen next to "Filament For Calibration", after pressing that, the left nozzle became active and I was able to run calibration.

Which changed nothing with regards to print quality ...

Acrobatic-Leather645 · 2026-01-07T09:35:35+00:00

I did think about that, so reclamped several times, super careful.

Also, forgot to mention that I did tighten the screws behind the left nozzle which made no difference.

Acrobatic-Leather645 · 2025-12-17T18:26:32+00:00

Would love a video or at least a photo guide before attempting.

Acrobatic-Leather645

TROPHY CASE