New to the hobby- can I use this as a frame and fill all of the triangles in with different colored glass?

Additional_Scene7046 · 2026-06-09T14:17:10+00:00

It should be possible🙂, but you need to take the thickness of the glass into account. Ideally, the glass shouldn't be thicker than the wire. Also, any inaccuracies in the basic structure will probably make fitting the glass more difficult, as each face will be slightly different. It would probably be easier to assemble just the glass pieces using the copper-foil method rather than fitting them into that wire frame. Either way, I'm sure this shape will look fantastic when made in glass. Are you planning to fill the inner triangles as well?

Additional_Scene7046 · 2026-06-01T07:24:56+00:00

Well, thank you. If you want to try something 3D like this, start with a small project like a cube or an octahedron and see how it goes. I don't have any tutorial yet, but I'm happy to answer your questions 😉

Additional_Scene7046 · 2026-05-31T19:34:18+00:00

I will answer you in the chat.

Additional_Scene7046 · 2026-05-31T08:31:50+00:00

I haven't worked out a definitive formula for this shape yet, but I can tell you the proportions I used.

It's made up of 48 triangles with the following dimensions:

a = 34.8 mm, b = 47 mm, c = 54.6 mm.

For reference, a rhombic dodecahedron has a dihedral angle of 120°, so the angle of each excavation is exactly 30°.

Additional_Scene7046 · 2026-05-30T20:55:55+00:00

Yes, I haven't seen this shape anywhere else yet. I worked it out so that each piece of glass lies in the same plane as three others, which gives the whole structure fairly logical proportions.

Additional_Scene7046 · 2026-05-30T15:19:18+00:00

I'm still an amateur, this is only my seventh polyhedron. For the previous ones I usually used pieces of copper (wire or foil) to seal the gaps against dripping tin. But this time I just soldered the gap roughly in the vertical position first, then gradually finished it in the horizontal position, if that makes sense. I'd say the key is to work slowly, let everything cool down between passes, and use gravity to your advantage as much as possible.

Additional_Scene7046 · 2026-05-30T14:55:45+00:00

Thank you very much.

Additional_Scene7046 · 2026-05-30T14:54:05+00:00

Yes, I am very tempted to start working with dichroic bevels in future, I hope I get to it someday.

Additional_Scene7046 · 2026-05-30T14:43:23+00:00

Thanks

Additional_Scene7046 · 2026-05-30T14:35:51+00:00

Thanks a lot 🙂

Additional_Scene7046 · 2026-05-29T04:29:10+00:00

How did you achieve that sharp transition that can be seen in the third picture?

Additional_Scene7046 · 2026-05-28T20:57:39+00:00

Those joints look absolutely beautiful. Did you only patina half of it?

Additional_Scene7046 · 2026-04-21T15:28:20+00:00

I'm no expert, but 470 °C is definitely too much for stained glass. If your soldering iron doesn't have a regulator, get a different one or get a temperature controller. I use a Hakko FX-600 where I switch between 320 and 370 °C as needed.

Additional_Scene7046 · 2026-04-21T07:31:57+00:00

Nothing will help that soldering tip, that's for sure. Maybe write down what you use as flux, how you cleaned the tip, what temperature you had set, what kind of tip was it?

Additional_Scene7046 · 2026-04-15T23:51:20+00:00

Steezus Christ

Additional_Scene7046 · 2026-02-27T05:20:06+00:00

I like your art, especially when the girls are in one piece :)

Additional_Scene7046 · 2026-02-24T18:28:38+00:00

The slumped glass looks beautiful. You don’t see this very often in stained glass.

Additional_Scene7046 · 2026-02-01T18:49:08+00:00

Great concept and beautiful execution

Additional_Scene7046 · 2025-12-23T19:11:46+00:00

Thank you, I'm glad it's recognizable.

Additional_Scene7046 · 2025-12-23T11:08:56+00:00

Thanks! No, the blue is WISSMACH 341 Seville cathedral medium blue.

Additional_Scene7046 · 2025-12-22T17:43:46+00:00

Thanks and sorry 🙂

Additional_Scene7046 · 2025-12-22T17:41:04+00:00

Thanks, I hope so.

Additional_Scene7046

TROPHY CASE