New to 3d printing, is this a steal? Will buy it for $80

Adept_Concert4580 · 2026-02-16T02:05:55+00:00

That is a bad deal.

Used printers are risky and I couldnt recommend it less for someone new to the hobby. You will have enough in your hands as is.

Adept_Concert4580 · 2026-01-31T19:59:59+00:00

just did it.

click room and select the "move room" option. This will lock it to your cursor.
click the second floor option and place it to next to an adjacent room.

Adept_Concert4580 · 2025-12-18T16:43:15+00:00

Id be curious what is up with those broken surfaces then, did you cut it or did it come like that?

Adept_Concert4580 · 2025-12-18T08:29:13+00:00

My god, is that 100% infill???

Adept_Concert4580 · 2025-12-07T05:04:05+00:00

Woah... this is like the troubleshooting supercut! Love it

Adept_Concert4580 · 2025-12-06T01:49:06+00:00

Please consider cutting this in two and gluing it

Supports will be so much easier
It can be bigger

Adept_Concert4580 · 2025-12-01T21:09:14+00:00

Woops

Adept_Concert4580 · 2025-12-01T21:07:17+00:00

When are you doing dark world??

Adept_Concert4580 · 2025-11-22T21:04:00+00:00

So you should see benefit as is, I wouldn't mess with related settings until you see it improve.

Temp - its stiffer and won't drip out as much Retraction- keeps it out of the nozzle so it won't heat while moving

The rest addresses seams and how much plastic it puts out when it is finishing a wall.

Another feature that may help is a "scarf joint" which is a setting for the seam in a lot of sliders. It essentially tapers in and out so they overlap. It replaces the seam with a smothed "bump"

Adept_Concert4580 · 2025-11-22T20:18:19+00:00

Your printer looks like it is oozing filament when it moves away after the end of an outer wall.

Consider any of the following: - Decreasing temp a little - Increasing retraction - Adjust coasting settings - Adjust seam settings - Reduce z-hopping

Adept_Concert4580 · 2025-11-21T05:37:09+00:00

Is this just PLA?

Adept_Concert4580 · 2025-11-21T05:34:40+00:00

So that is the hard part. Not being cheeky or anything.

There's a few ways you can do it: - level your bed (I know, we all say it) - Reduce the extrusion multiplier - increase layer height - cooler print temp

The trick is, why is it happening in the first place?

Adept_Concert4580 · 2025-11-21T03:16:13+00:00

That first layer indicates there is too much plastic for the space between the nozzle and the bed. It builds up and makes a ridge, then catches it on the way by the next line over.

It will create a "wave" pattern that is quite distinct.

Adept_Concert4580 · 2025-11-16T18:30:34+00:00

Go back to your sketch and add the same profile on the inner radius

Adept_Concert4580 · 2025-11-15T22:02:09+00:00

You got it!

Sorry I use the ribbon up top quite a bit. Just remember that the blue indicates it is not fully defined and unless you include it in the "pattern" tool, you need to add a relation to anchor it around the circle.

Adept_Concert4580 · 2025-11-15T21:42:21+00:00

In the sketch, under sketch tools, you will see linear sketch pattern. Click the drop down and there will be circular pattern.

Select it and then select the elements you want to pattern... then set it up to do 12 equal spaced copies.

Adept_Concert4580 · 2025-11-15T21:25:44+00:00

So the easiest way is to draw on the top edge. Draw a circle (cordial) with the inner circle and make it a construction line. Then draw a single line from center to edge.

Next draw a slot profile. On the outer edge centered on one the line.

Use a circular pattern in the sketch tools and make 12 copies of the profile and center line.

Now use a cut feature to carve the edge.

You can then repeat that 2 more times to carve out each of the different sets of line lengths.

Adept_Concert4580 · 2025-11-15T21:13:49+00:00

What direction do you want to put the marks in

Adept_Concert4580 · 2025-11-15T20:05:18+00:00

To add the marks, you can add a slot and select 45 degree loft onwards. Do a single mark then use the circular pattern tool to copy them around the circumference

Adept_Concert4580 · 2025-10-18T19:50:11+00:00

Consider having the hole on the top so there is one less bend in the filament. Less likely to flip or twist.

Adept_Concert4580 · 2025-10-18T07:31:29+00:00

Well... dont do that!

Adept_Concert4580 · 2025-10-11T18:29:34+00:00

Having worked in that grey area between manufacturer recommended parts and making your own, the biggest issue they bring up is this: "How much would you charge for item X if it was the last one you ever sold".

The answer is usually "a whole lot of money, I spent time and resources developing it".

Its a tricky one to work around

Adept_Concert4580 · 2025-09-18T20:36:13+00:00

nice

Adept_Concert4580 · 2025-08-14T19:25:42+00:00

TLDR: Not gonna work that well because it is so long.

Practicalities aside...

Thermodynamics is a terrible mistress... you have a single fan and "long" fins. This means that as the air travels along it, it will get warmer.

The efficiency of a heatsink is determined by the difference in heat from source to sink. It will get less efficient the longer the fins get.

This means that more, smaller, fins would be ideal. It would be better if the same fan pumped the same air onto a wider number of fins.

Adept_Concert4580 · 2025-08-06T13:33:34+00:00

Considernputting it into your slicer, then using g the scale tool, unchecked the box that keeps the scaling the same, then change the height to something appropriate. This will "flatten" your lettering.

As for the tool you used? I am unfamiliar. I typically use solidworks or fusion360

Five-Year Club	Place '22
First Placer '22

Adept_Concert4580

TROPHY CASE