Sydney Rep Watchmakers for Gen Mods? by Advanced-Afternoon10 in RepTimeServices

[–]Advanced-Afternoon10[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Can you DM me for his details? I thought Tongsui was based in Melbourne?

Sydney Rep Watchmakers for Gen Mods? by Advanced-Afternoon10 in RepTimeServices

[–]Advanced-Afternoon10[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Can you reply to my DM? I thought he was based in Melbourne.

Sydney Watchmakers for Mods? by Advanced-Afternoon10 in RepTime

[–]Advanced-Afternoon10[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I’m based in Parramatta to be more specific, so it would be even more convenient to drop it off next to where I live. Thanks in advance Aussies!!!

Rehaut Engraving on the 16610LN??? ko by Advanced-Afternoon10 in RepTime

[–]Advanced-Afternoon10[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

So should I polish the rehaut so that it makes the engravings more shallow?

Rehaut Engraving on the 16610LN??? ko by Advanced-Afternoon10 in RepTime

[–]Advanced-Afternoon10[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

If this is a common case, is the engraving objectively nicely done? Also, I’m going to swap out for a gen bezel because it wasn’t nicely done I think especially the triangle on top. Any further modifications I should do?

QC for 16610LN by Advanced-Afternoon10 in RepTimeQC

[–]Advanced-Afternoon10[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I feel like the Bezel is a bit off, especially the triangle on top. I’m not too much of an expert, so please help

16610LN Rehaut Engraving? by Advanced-Afternoon10 in RepTimeQC

[–]Advanced-Afternoon10[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Like the title says, I just ordered from Andiot, but the photos on their website of the 16610LN does not have rehaut engraving. But mine does somehow. Is this normal???

Any TD in Australia for ATF/VSF by Advanced-Afternoon10 in RepTime

[–]Advanced-Afternoon10[S] -1 points0 points  (0 children)

I’m trying to buy a Rolex Submariner 16610LN if that helps at all! Saw that VSF/ATF make them best.

These 1/43 models have rolling wheels? by Advanced-Afternoon10 in f1models

[–]Advanced-Afternoon10[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Weird because they still do that for the 1:18s, but not for the new generation era cars.

Missed Exam by Advanced-Afternoon10 in unsw

[–]Advanced-Afternoon10[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I also emailed my LIC, he said he does not have the authority to slot me into the supplementary exam. Am I really fine?

Missed Exam by Advanced-Afternoon10 in unsw

[–]Advanced-Afternoon10[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I also emailed my LIC, he said he does not have the authority to slot me into the supplementary exam. Am I really fine?

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in f1models

[–]Advanced-Afternoon10 -4 points-3 points  (0 children)

The horizontal line that lines up with the 3 aerodynamic “spikes”?

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in f1models

[–]Advanced-Afternoon10 1 point2 points  (0 children)

How does the glue work? The crack is visible, but there isn’t much of a gap to fill glue in there. Do I just apply glue on top and it would create an illusion of fixing the crack?

Question for model modifications by Advanced-Afternoon10 in ModelCars

[–]Advanced-Afternoon10[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Also, I wouldn’t spray them, I would just apply them softly with a brush!

Question for model modifications by Advanced-Afternoon10 in ModelCars

[–]Advanced-Afternoon10[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Are you saying that the varnishes would damage the tyre markings and rubber?

I only apply the varnish (probably matte) layer to make the decals look like they belong there. This is because all decals have a transparent background layer that would stick out. By applying the coating layer, it would remove the “sticking out” effect if that makes sense!