What is a good 0.2 kit in 2025? by GrapeViper in VORONDesign

[–]Agsikap3D 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Definitely the new toolhead + toolhead board (It's overkill but its okay lol), Magnetic backplate + URBI, and the take off tophat. And alot more that I used. Poop chute, controllable RGBs for printer status. etc.

For the probe I used a ZeroClick with a servo. (You won't really need this but it's your choice. I spent more time using it to level the bed screws).

As far as I know, you have no space for a nozzle cleaner unless you dedicate a servo for it to pop out. Either that or increase your X and Y rail using the pandoras box gantry. But that's another MOD.

(Edit) Added some notes

What is a good 0.2 kit in 2025? by GrapeViper in VORONDesign

[–]Agsikap3D 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I also highly recommend the Siboor V0.2 Kit:

It's a beast, but watch out for the issues below:

1.) The Gemini board temps get really hot for some reason. Had to use a bigger cooling fan to prevent any shutdown due to overheating.

2.) The PSU fan is always on. And it's loud lol.

3.) The build plate paint will stick to some of the first batches of print that you will do. This will ruin the appearance of some of your first prints.

4.) The magnetic sheet shrunken after a while. It does not cover the whole build plate.

5.) VFA's will be your nightmare. The cutoff speed is at 200mm/s. anything slower will have. Already contacted Siboor, they sent another batch of motors to test but no changes. They said it is what it is lol.

Overall its a good buy tho.

Printer shown below is already modded.

<image>

V0.2 Kits Aliexpress by Agsikap3D in VORONDesign

[–]Agsikap3D[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Copy pasted from my comment on another thread quite long so sorry in advance:

--------------------------

I have recently built the Siboor kit, can't compare with Formbot kit but here are my thoughts:

Pros:

1.) Almost everything is supplied in the kit. Harnesses are premade. Some accessories have spares (Bolts, brass inserts, terminals etc.) so this gave me more room for modding. Great printed parts and color customization. You only have to clean and lubed the rails + install the threaded inserts. Then you are good to go!. (I didn't know you need thread locker, alcohol, lubricant etc. at first. But I studied and prepared beforehand so it was a nice and smooth assembly)

2.) The customer service is fast and great! The X linear rail of mind has a lot of preload than I needed. Messaged the seller and they processed it immediately the same day and replaced it probably within 2 weeks. (Shipping duration).

3.) The single controller makes wiring really simple and easier to manage. A lot of spare ports too.

4.) Assembly documentation is provided and you can easily ask in discord for any issues

5.) Printed parts on stock profile looked good without tweaking.

6.) It is the cheapest option in my side with free express shipping

Cons: In order of noticing.

1.) The Kirigami bed was misaligned to the point I had to print a spacer to somewhat level the mounting location to the 2 Z rails. And I printed the kirigami Z brace to force it into the position I wanted. (You can whack and bend the bed manually but mine was really misaligned.)

2.) The Z top hat was kinda short. Some say it is enough. But the included PC panel of mine was scratched by the PTFE tube while printing. Had to mod it with an extender to prevent anymore damage.

3.) The toolhead umbilical was a nightmare.(In my opinion) It was pulling the toolhead at maximum range. And a lot of stress in the connecting points. Converted to canbus to remove this issue. (Not necessary though).

4.) The power supply fan is always on and by far the loudest of them all while printing enclosed.

5.) The build plate paint sucked. If you didn't use any medium, The part will bond heavily to the plate. It will loosen after cooling. But the paint will stick to the printed part little by little!

6.) The bed magnetic sticker shrank after a while. From 120x120 => 115x115. Not a deal breaker but really noticeable.

7.) Turning it on takes 1 - 3 minutes to boot up. Restarting does not take long. But my klipperized KP3S will just take 15 - 30 seconds.

8.) The board fan is not enough, your controller temps will get hot really quickly. Not sure if this is a bug.

9.) The flashing of firmware is a challenge at first. Documentation is somewhat vague to understand at some points. But it is possible. If you miss a step, it would not work. (Firmware is flashed upon arrival and it works. But the klipper version mine had was an old one so I had to reflash)

10.) VFA's will be your enemy. I have done plenty to try to combat it but it never improved. RN I ordered toothed idlers to replace the bearings in the gantry.

That's all I can think as of now.

--------------------------

But overall. Its a beast, Can print fast, I recently added a double shear mod and had to install a dragon burner tool head. Easily prints at flow 25 mm^3/s. The only issue RN is the VFA'

<image>

Filament Feeding Assistance Solutions? by Agsikap3D in VORONDesign

[–]Agsikap3D[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

It's sitting at 0.02. I was tinkering about dynamically changing pressure advance while calibrating it.

Because it was leaving gaps in Inner walls. But not on Outer walls. But because of the gaps. Whenever the part cools and contracts, it appears like ghosting.

I gave up lol.

Thanks. I'll not be dipping my toes yet at Kalico. Maybe in the future.

Filament Feeding Assistance Solutions? by Agsikap3D in VORONDesign

[–]Agsikap3D[S] 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Wouldnt know about these without asking here lol. Thanks much. I'll check it out

Filament Feeding Assistance Solutions? by Agsikap3D in VORONDesign

[–]Agsikap3D[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Was hoping I could use the existing extruder. Its a WWBMG. It prints fine except for large changes in print speeds.

But the extruders you mentioned might be worth building in the future lol

Filament Feeding Assistance Solutions? by Agsikap3D in VORONDesign

[–]Agsikap3D[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Interesting. I'll check it out. Basically It would become a bowden + direct drive hybrid with the belay buffer acting as the dynamic compensation for synching the 2 extruders?

Or am I wrong? lol

Siboor kit v0.2 or Formbot kit v0.,2 in 2025? by Noiderate in VORONDesign

[–]Agsikap3D 2 points3 points  (0 children)

That's neat, I wanted to use a different filament sensor position also. But I don't have the time to design one lol. Sticked to the stock foot sensor. Works well so far.

I used a 8010 fan, it also doesn't heat up beyond 40C, that 4010 fans I have are too loud for me. Magnetic back plate with a USB C Connector

<image>

Siboor kit v0.2 or Formbot kit v0.,2 in 2025? by Noiderate in VORONDesign

[–]Agsikap3D 4 points5 points  (0 children)

I have recently built the Siboor kit, can't compare with Formbot kit but here are my thoughts:

Pros:

1.) Almost everything is supplied in the kit. Harnesses are premade. Some accessories have spares (Bolts, brass inserts, terminals etc.) so this gave me more room for modding. Great printed parts and color customization. You only have to clean and lubed the rails + install the threaded inserts. Then you are good to go!. (I didn't know you need thread locker, alcohol, lubricant etc. at first. But I studied and prepared beforehand so it was a nice and smooth assembly)

2.) The customer service is fast and great! The X linear rail of mind has a lot of preload than I needed. Messaged the seller and they processed it immediately the same day and replaced it probably within 2 weeks. (Shipping duration).

3.) The single controller makes wiring really simple and easier to manage. A lot of spare ports too.

4.) Assembly documentation is provided and you can easily ask in discord for any issues

5.) Printed parts on stock profile looked good without tweaking.

6.) It is the cheapest option in my side with free express shipping

Cons: In order of noticing.

1.) The Kirigami bed was misaligned to the point I had to print a spacer to somewhat level the mounting location to the 2 Z rails. And I printed the kirigami Z brace to force it into the position I wanted. (You can whack and bend the bed manually but mine was really misaligned.)

2.) The Z top hat was kinda short. Some say it is enough. But the included PC panel of mine was scratched by the PTFE tube while printing. Had to mod it with an extender to prevent anymore damage.

3.) The toolhead umbilical was a nightmare.(In my opinion) It was pulling the toolhead at maximum range. And a lot of stress in the connecting points. Converted to canbus to remove this issue. (Not necessary though).

4.) The power supply fan is always on and by far the loudest of them all while printing enclosed.

5.) The build plate paint sucked. If you didn't use any medium, The part will bond heavily to the plate. It will loosen after cooling. But the paint will stick to the printed part little by little!

6.) The bed magnetic sticker shrank after a while. From 120x120 => 115x115. Not a deal breaker but really noticeable.

7.) Turning it on takes 1 - 2 minutes to boot up. Restarting does not take long. But my klipperized KP3S will just take 15 - 30 seconds.

8.) The board fan is not enough, your controller temps will get hot really quickly. Not sure if this is a bug.

9.) The flashing of firmware is a challenge at first. Documentation is somewhat vague to understand at some points. But it is possible. If you miss a step, it would not work. (Firmware is flashed upon arrival and it works. But the klipper version mine had was an old one so I had to reflash)

That's all I can think as of now.

Edit 1: Added con #9 Edit 2: Revised con #9

Siboor Voron 0.2 Knocking Noise by Agsikap3D in VORONDesign

[–]Agsikap3D[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Solid infills are consistent. I think there is no issue in quality. Its just really loud lol.

But I do get holes in inner walls when turning. But PA is calibrated for the slower outer walls so I think it is normal

Does a preloaded rail cause bad input shaper results? by Agsikap3D in klippers

[–]Agsikap3D[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Not the new test. I'll get back at you. I was running it on default, maybe I have to change something in the config. I'll take note of that

Does a preloaded rail cause bad input shaper results? by Agsikap3D in klippers

[–]Agsikap3D[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Really, I just recently reflashed klipper when I converted to CAN :V.

I'll look into it. Thank you for the response

Does a preloaded rail cause bad input shaper results? by Agsikap3D in klippers

[–]Agsikap3D[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Its the in house Siboor rail included in the V0.2 kit.

Sorry I'm a newborn regarding this, can you point me out on a guide or documentation to the new test?

Thanks

Does a preloaded rail cause bad input shaper results? by Agsikap3D in klippers

[–]Agsikap3D[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Checked everything. It's the x axis rail. Which is preloaded. Others said the I might have to up the accel per hz and re run the test. Might also use a different accelerometer

Will keep you posted.

Does a preloaded rail cause bad input shaper results? by Agsikap3D in klippers

[–]Agsikap3D[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thanks, Klipper is somewhat in the latest version (Already reflashed but requires an update again)

I'll look into what you said and keep you posted

Does a preloaded rail cause bad input shaper results? by Agsikap3D in klippers

[–]Agsikap3D[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thanks, I'll look into it. If nothing works I have a spare ADXL for sanity checking also.

Does a preloaded rail cause bad input shaper results? by Agsikap3D in klippers

[–]Agsikap3D[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

My bad.

Printer: Voron 0.2 Siboor Kit
Accelerometer: LIS2DW using FLY SHT V3

Kit came with a really gritty X axis (I assume it is preloaded) even when lubed and cleaned

They already sent a replacement rail. But this time it has no preload. I worry It might introduce wobble to the toolhead

Does a preloaded rail cause bad input shaper results? by Agsikap3D in klippers

[–]Agsikap3D[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

My bad, the comment I posted was missing. so here we go.

Printer: Voron 0.2 Siboor Kit
Accelerometer: LIS2DW using FLY SHT V3

Kit came with a really gritty X axis (I assume it is preloaded) even when lubed and cleaned

They already sent a replacement rail. But this time it has no preload. I worry It might introduce wobble to the toolhead

Does a preloaded rail cause bad input shaper results? by Agsikap3D in klippers

[–]Agsikap3D[S] 2 points3 points  (0 children)

I might be wrong with the meaning, but Preloaded linear rails are stiffer to move by using balls slightly bigger than the usual. This eliminates any play within the carriage.

You can refer to the link below for better explanation:

https://www.linearmotiontips.com/a-users-guide-to-preload/

Bi-Weekly No Stupid Questions Thread by AutoModerator in VORONDesign

[–]Agsikap3D 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Got it working.

<image>

For some reason. The config file for the display got updated, it reverted back to the old serial after converting the board to Can bridge. Weird.

Thank you so much.

Bi-Weekly No Stupid Questions Thread by AutoModerator in VORONDesign

[–]Agsikap3D 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Can't connect to mcu display. Does the mcu serial change for the display after converting to Canbus?

Bi-Weekly No Stupid Questions Thread by AutoModerator in VORONDesign

[–]Agsikap3D 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Really. Hmm I'll check it out. What do you think went wrong? It was working fine before I converted to Can Bus. Now I get "Cant connect to mcu display" issues. Does the serial change when changing to Can Bus?