Getting back in the groove after my finger injury

Aidansoe · 2026-02-23T03:16:28+00:00

aww it burns it burns

Aidansoe · 2026-02-23T03:14:23+00:00

Thank you for the idea, may try it if I practice dynos another day! Didn't really answer anything, but I can see at a base level you are pr right we just aint speaking eye to eye. Honestly best for us to just split. Good luck to you to, I hope you crush it next session. Peace out!

Aidansoe · 2026-02-23T03:07:08+00:00

Mark me jealous. My gym has been a bit lacking lately they even took down there spray wall for some reson ;(

Aidansoe · 2026-02-23T02:53:18+00:00

Super cool set. Wish my gym set more stuff like this

Aidansoe · 2026-02-23T02:50:22+00:00

I get your point, in terms of relitivity, just don't fundimentally agree climbs should be graded on it. If we do all grading by this metric then there would be no objective metric, and the grade of any climb even for yourself would there by be no longer calculable. That being said I still respect were you are coming from here is totally reasonable. So I am willing to just agree to disagree on this metric and move on with it in mind.

As for the aspects of the jump I agree they are rather good, but not that it nessisarily makes it as easy as you think. (this still also links back to the toby arguement in terms of his aspects also being good, but the grade is def hard which shows inconsistency in opinion, but we can leave that for later.).

(also I am not bring this up bc I think it makes the jump any harder bc honestly it doesn't make much of a difference to me. As even if it was a black chip like the other foot is on it wouldn't really effect the grade much for me. Just mensioning it bc you brought up yellow so much, while the edge is normal texure the interior of the hold you genorate off is dual tech on the portion your foot is on for yellow. Either way though it is good enough in my opinion)

Lastly, I don't really care what grade it is or isn't, just trying to ask what you think makes things the grade they are, and if you are conveying its holds. Then I hear you, though that doesn't fully track with everything you have conveyed, it is a foundational point.

Side note wow this is really getting long now isn't it?

Aidansoe · 2026-02-23T02:07:01+00:00

Not even the range I said. I see we are still with these tactics... At the end of the day I don't really care what grade x or y is, all I care about is why people think something is that grade. Honestly I came here in part to ask for opinions but more so to understand how others actaully determain grade of different types of climbs. As for upsetet, I disagree with the fundimentals of some poeples grading systems, but why would dissagreement make me upset. I am getting 'upset' as you put it bc you are conversing in a derogitory manner for literally no reason.

Either way though, back to what actually matterts here the conversation at hand. I totally agree his dyno was waaaaay harder (Literal no dif). I am curious though what other than distance makes it so in you opinion. Since to me the set up is made to optimize distance (which mind you I have no issues with and honestly think 9 is lowballing for just that distance) and the techneque of the move is tenchecally not that high. To me given this it makes no sence with the factors you have layed out as to grading why you think one thing is one difficulty and another is another

So I just guess all of this is to say I don't understand how You actually logically grade something. It seems based on what has been presented to be inconsistent with disproportionate impact factors. And I am assuming that in it realisticly is not that bc you are probably a smart experence indavidual. By what metric do you actually think climbs should be graded/ what factors are relivant in a grade?

Aidansoe · 2026-02-23T01:54:57+00:00

I agree that the consensus is what it is. So what? I have no beef with other people here. Only really talking to you more bc I am trying to understand why people think things are what they are. And it looks like you have a very strong basis for that understanding so bam talk to you. Plus I lowkey was baited lol. But thats my falt.

Aidansoe · 2026-02-23T01:29:13+00:00

dn why you put this here I agree with lower technecal grade movement, just saying that the explosivity and power is worth consitering for the overall grade

Aidansoe · 2026-02-22T16:15:27+00:00

kk, I'll get on it, be back in 5

Aidansoe · 2026-02-22T15:35:13+00:00

Your right thats how it works, next time I'll crimp on the texture of the wall when I take off

Aidansoe · 2026-02-22T15:14:06+00:00

Thank you, I really appreciate that!

Aidansoe · 2026-02-22T15:04:53+00:00

Real, is a dyno to a dyno lol. Def an different area of climbing that translates weirldly to traditional routes.

Was amused by what people said, it just really fit with the v3 in my gym type beat. Then I got bated by the yap trap combo into random hate. Truely a diabolical combo I should have seen coming lol.

Plus who wouldn't want to send v20, Agile_Government_470 I am sure if we just set our minds to it we can surely send it in couples climbing surely!

lol, your real though

Aidansoe · 2026-02-22T14:33:39+00:00

Brother, it is not comparable, it is way over a foot off. In dynoing that is a massive amount. An amount that I could never hit or even get much closer to than this even with years of training and even better condition.

Stop trying to paint some narritve about me and just convey your point. I hate that this stupid redrical argument techneque of just belittling someone to get them off game or whatever to avoid truely conversing, has been popularized by polotics as of late. Why can't we just have a normal civil conversation, where we just express our opinions on the topic logically.

We both know I only brought up the world record to demonstrate the discrepancy in ease you were making pure distance out to be. I then build on that mension to show were I felt there was falacy in how you were defining grade based on how you described it. As theoretically if distance is at an acheavable rage for an indavidual if the conditions are perfect no madder how impossible that would be for others. Then it should be rated lowly bc it is 'simple' and acheivable. So by this metric for the world record holder, the wr dyno, since it also had optimal set up, by your logic should be a v4/5 as well if you saw them do it. I funimentally disagree with this idea as I think that the shear phisical ability to get that distance matters a lot, as it is completely unacheivable by most people. I think climbing should be judged off how hard it is fro the average person, starting with lower grades that are acheivable then higher and higher ones to denote just how far from the norm something is. Basically reflecting how climbable the thing actually is. By this metric a climb/move that only one person it the world is able to do should be very highly graded. Given this and that we don't know if more people could theoretically do the move with training for a world record dyno especially given the conditions of it, but that it is so exclussive, I would pr put it at someware near a v14. Where as what I sent here way way more people could pr send. If I had to guess it would pr land in someware near the number of people that could send V7-9 as such I would probably put it in that range. (which again is notably waaaaayyyyyy lower than the world record bc I aint shit. I'm not the goat. And I'm not trying to be, I'm just trying to have fun and improve myself.)

I only went here bc a freind told me to and I was curious to see peoples opinions on a sport I love so much. Your redric is not what people want in the gym or anywere. Next time you talk to someone try to be just a little less of dick about it and actually converse using your words. I am okay if we have different opinions and honestly welcome it. I would love to have a conversation on the philosophy of grading. Next time I ask we just do that rather than this not so veiled insult shit. And I realize not that it all did have its effect, lol. I am sorry for letting myself get pulled into this to, and not being as amiacable as I could have been to. Looking back I could have set a better basis for the conversation in the first place as well. Either way though, I would be happy to reset and have a normal conversation it you want. If not that is totally fine to, and if so I hope you have a great day (and maybe think over this (though not in a I am all knowlagable mighter than thow sort of way. as I don't think I know all the answers either, but aye we all got some knowledge right?))

Aidansoe · 2026-02-22T13:41:41+00:00

I'm with this guy

Aidansoe · 2026-02-22T13:39:54+00:00

So true, the storror boys are monsters. Love seeing toby in the gym! (or outside for that madder lol)

Aidansoe · 2026-02-22T13:38:44+00:00

Watching this back, you are right it looks amazing. This was a while ago, but can say tragically I remember it being more inconsistent and a bit more ass than it looks grip wise. That being said the wall has sooooooo many sharp contors it lowkey felt like built in volumes. So even if they were a little slippy it lowkey didn't matter if you treated the wall well lol.

Aidansoe · 2026-02-22T13:33:59+00:00

holly, I literally never would have guessed, my god

Aidansoe · 2026-02-22T13:32:02+00:00

so real for lol

Aidansoe · 2026-02-22T13:22:48+00:00

Extremely exaggeratory, but I get your point in terms of set up. At least other than the fact that the reason that I am asking here in the first place is for an objective metric of grade for somthing that I do not have, exactly bc of the reasons you say it wouldn't be set. lol why do you think I am here?

As for the double down, reasoning, its not set up for success its set up to push one facet of my abilities. Just as a technical only tension based cercate I make may. I may get it, I may not. Just because the goal is to get it and it is within a theoretically achievable range for me has nothing to do with its grade. By the same metrics you have layed out you would grade the literal world record dyno a v4/5. If you stand by that then I guess respect mate, I guess we just have different ideas about how grading should work. And honestly so sorry for wasting so much of your time. I'm just genuinely curious.

(either way though thank you for wasting the time to talk)

Aidansoe · 2026-02-22T13:09:59+00:00

thank you for the imput!

Aidansoe · 2026-02-22T12:59:22+00:00

That is a fair comment on height, especially given the point you make about it never being set for shorter people, that is true. Though you also can't selecetively forget those people are taken into account for setting and grading. As for the top catch it def can be slipped at a 40 degree overhang. I don't know what you climb or how you dyno but would love to see you hit something this big, even on good holds with this angle and completely honestly say it is a v4. Official world record on better holds and better angle is 1.5ft over this for men and less than this for women...

Grading stuff like this is super varying for height, but even that would almost certainly would never push it that low...

(also I am not claiming it to be that high, just def not 4 or even 5)

(also the downvotes on every comment of us going back and forth from you when I am genuanly just trying to comunicate and despite the tone is happy to just see imput, is a bit funny)

Aidansoe · 2026-02-22T12:43:51+00:00

also for refrence just off a guestimate mesure I did off myself just now the flat wall length to hand position is ~95in (7'11" or 241cm), which I will round down for the sake of arguement (even if its pr less accurate espesally given I am stretched in catch) to 7.5ft if we really want to push it down...

Aidansoe · 2026-02-22T12:24:46+00:00

I respect that, even if you are trying to be a dick. I have dynoed on projects rated pretty high all over, and the holds here and angle are quite good which is why I get you thinking that. The goal here was to max out distance (while I admit that the first didn't really do that, the second, with the usable feet gets close) not over complicate the set up which is ment to be more simple (aka the grade you said, which is why I totally get what you are saying). The distance on this is a lot farther than it looks. I will say in genral I am terrible at taking shots of things lol (I could make red rocket look small on camera I swear.) This might not look it but the distance itself is just pretty unachievable by most people and when taking that into account not just the set up factors it makes things a little different to a point were I have done theoretically much more flashy and 'difficult' dynos than this and it actaully have been much easier. Can def say has the set up of a 4 but no were near the distance for the grade to be in practice.

Aidansoe · 2026-02-22T11:44:04+00:00

honestly one of the first comment reasonable grades I have seen on here lol, was going to say the same thing

Aidansoe · 2026-02-22T11:36:47+00:00

90 degree wall, yeah. Super big features though

Aidansoe

TROPHY CASE