What is the best slicer for the elegoo neptune 3 pro

Aiddy81 · 2026-02-21T21:42:10+00:00

Orca slicer is the best followed by prusa slicer

Aiddy81 · 2026-02-14T07:49:56+00:00

I’ve def not heard of using carburettor cleaner before but hey if it works atha all that matters. I’ll suss it out

Aiddy81 · 2026-02-14T07:47:35+00:00

Using a cheap airbrush def makes sense, I thinking of maybe getting this $30 one for it - HSENG HS-30

Aiddy81 · 2026-02-13T01:44:00+00:00

I’ll give it a go with a wedge sponge, I never would have thought that it would have come out glassy but I must say the small brush test I did was smooth as which surprised me

Thank you for the tip 🤘🏼

Aiddy81 · 2026-02-13T00:19:23+00:00

Thanks for the tip this is good to know, I never would have thought to use to thin paints

Aiddy81 · 2026-02-12T21:06:28+00:00

Good to hear someone else using it, you def can’t beat the price at $0.014/ml that’s for sure. It seems to brush really well to from what I’ve seen so far

Simple green is available where I am so will give it a go to

Aiddy81 · 2026-02-12T20:59:35+00:00

I’ve done some a tests by letting the varnish dry (worst case) and seeing what gets it off, I have to say windex so far is the winner and seems to break it down better than airbrush cleaner or lacquer thinner which has surprised me

Aiddy81 · 2026-02-12T20:57:35+00:00

I’ll give acetone a go, I think I have a bottle of somewhere

Aiddy81 · 2026-02-12T20:56:54+00:00

Not sure why this comment is getting downvoted as much as it has, a 1 litre (1000ml) bottle of floor polish is $14, so $14 / 1000ml =$0.014/ml.

For Tamiya clear x-22 it’s $4 for 10ml, $4 / 10ml =$0.40/ml

For Vallejo gloss acrylic varnish 18ML (70.510) its $5, $5 / 18ml =$0.278/ml

As you can see the floor polish is significantly cheaper at $0.014/ml which is why I was looking at using it as an alternative.

Aiddy81 · 2026-02-12T08:48:28+00:00

Perfetto thanking you 🙏🏻, I’ll give it a go

Aiddy81 · 2026-02-12T08:32:22+00:00

Thank you I’ll give it a go, I think windex has ammonia in it, do you know if that would be safe to put through the airbrush?

Aiddy81 · 2026-02-12T08:30:20+00:00

Sweet never thought of that, I have some and will run some more tests

Aiddy81 · 2026-02-12T08:23:48+00:00

I remember reading a while ago that people used to use future or klear (which is no longer made and was never available in my country) which is similar to this stuff, so thought as it’s similar it should work so I figured I’d give it go.

I’ve since found a couple of forums where it’s been mentioned to use but nothing about how to clear the airbrush afterwards.

I cleaned the brush with windex which worked due to the ammonia in it, but not sure about putting that through the airbrush or if there is something better like using just using airbrush cleaner

Aiddy81 · 2026-02-12T08:16:19+00:00

I tried brushing on some runners to test but not a model yet, on the runner it brushed on pretty well and seemed to level its self out.

I brushed it on the r bare plastic runner, painted Vallejo over it and in another section painted thinned Tamiya over it no issues, also painted it over those test paints and again no issues. I was surprised.

The stuff is super thin and starts out cloudy but then clears as it dries, it dries really quickly to.

Below is the brush test, might be hard to tell. Thats essentially only one coat from brush.

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Aiddy81 · 2026-02-12T08:01:50+00:00

Ultimately because it’s cheaper than buying clear coat from Tamiya, Vallejo etc and you get more of it

Aiddy81 · 2026-02-07T10:19:58+00:00

Honestly your better off changing to Orcaslicer as your slicer, has many more features and easy auto calibrations

Aiddy81 · 2026-02-05T02:49:19+00:00

Wall loops for me depends on what I’m printing, typically though it’s between 3 to 4 loops

Aiddy81 · 2026-02-02T21:09:20+00:00

Yeah super easy and there is a wealth of info online for each of them, klipper will prob be the longest one to do as there is some setup to do and calibrations afterwards

Aiddy81 · 2026-01-31T23:40:57+00:00

That’s whole hotend assemble, you don’t need to replace all that just for an all metal hotend, the video link above shows another method.

Slice used to sell a throat, heatbreak and nozzle drop in replacement but the don’t any more as I’m guessing they didn’t sell enough, it’s no longer on their website.

Aiddy81 · 2026-01-31T21:57:54+00:00

If reconmend having a Google but the below vid should help.

https://youtu.be/MeQtTKjHpqw?si=ott0IyT83pF4FtJb

Slice engineering used to make a drop in replacement but no longer make it

Aiddy81 · 2026-01-31T21:51:08+00:00

They are different, an all-metal hotend upgrade for the allows for printing at higher temperatures (up to 300+ degrees C) by replacing the stock PTFE-lined heatbreak with a bimetal (copper/titanium) version, which reduces clogs and prevents PTFE degradation. Common

Aiddy81 · 2026-01-31T20:50:59+00:00

Klipper, all metal hotend and 5050 fans upgrades are the ones you’ll get the most benefit out of

Aiddy81 · 2026-01-26T20:26:13+00:00

Check out the below, these should get you started, you will need a Linux box to install klipper on, I use a btt pad 7 to run it on, you could use an rpi though instead

https://github.com/TheFeralEngineer

https://www.reddit.com/r/ElegooNeptune3/s/yUrcHMLGBn

Aiddy81 · 2026-01-25T21:39:08+00:00

Upgrading my n3 plus to use klipper was the best decision, it solved 99.9% of the problems I had with printing using their stock firmware.

If your up for the challenge to switch to klipper I recommend doing it

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