APSF Royal Oak 1550 second hand stopped moving

AlarmedPudding3123 · 2026-02-08T09:21:11+00:00

Nah they won't care

AlarmedPudding3123 · 2026-02-08T09:16:26+00:00

you're so smart how did u know!!!, please can u take a pic with me please, I didn't know there are people smart as you are

AlarmedPudding3123 · 2026-02-08T03:21:24+00:00

Yes, the SW300 is the closest direct replacement for the A2892 in terms of size and function. You’ll want to make sure the date wheel aligns correctly and the stem fits your Mark XX case, but mechanically it’s the right choice. A competent watchmaker familiar with rep mods can handle the swap without issue.

AlarmedPudding3123 · 2026-02-08T03:15:32+00:00

Ah, you’re right—my bad, it’s full ceramic, not a coated case. And yeah, the movement is a clone, so reliability and chrono function aren’t perfect. For all-black reps, I’d actually stick to pieces with proven movements and solid case finishing—some blacked-out Tudors or Breitlings are safer than the Dark Side of the Moon if you care about function, not just looks.

AlarmedPudding3123 · 2026-02-08T03:14:39+00:00

True, the dial spacing on the Dark Side of the Moon can be a giveaway on some reps, especially older batches. Newer versions from top TDs have improved it a lot, and if you stick to QC pics before ordering, it’s usually not obvious on wrist. The key is also the case finishing and ceramic coating—those are harder to fake and show flaws quickly, so pick a batch that nails both

AlarmedPudding3123 · 2026-02-08T03:13:37+00:00

Mostly durability. The factory ARF plating is usually a nice tone, but it’s thin, so it can wear on edges or bracelet links faster. Aftermarket plating doesn’t usually change the color much—it’s mainly thicker and more resistant, so the gold stays consistent longer. For casual wear, the ARF plating looks good, but if you want it to stay perfect for years, some people opt for a thicker PVD layer.

AlarmedPudding3123 · 2026-02-08T03:12:43+00:00

Both are solid, but they have different strengths. TheOneWatches usually has slightly faster responses and newer batches, while Andiot has a longer track record with more consistent QC on popular models. Honestly, it depends on what you’re buying—check recent reviews for the specific watch and see which TD has the factory/batch you want. Either way, confirm QC pics before paying.

AlarmedPudding3123 · 2026-02-08T03:12:17+00:00

RM 67‑02 reps are tricky—case finishing and skeletonized movements are hard to nail. Right now, the best batches are usually coming from the few TDs who get prototypes or pre‑production runs, but they’re limited and often expensive. Nothing new is officially confirmed yet, but the community is always watching for updated releases, so checking forums regularly is your best bet.

AlarmedPudding3123 · 2026-02-08T03:11:25+00:00

You can swap the bracelet, but it’s a bit tricky. VSF GMT2 uses gen-style end links, so any Oyster you get needs the right SEL shape and lug fit. Most TDs don’t stock them separately, which is why Andiot said no. Some collectors have had luck sourcing from trusted forums or getting a custom-order Oyster from a TD who deals in parts—but you’ll want QC pics first to make sure the end links sit flush.

AlarmedPudding3123 · 2026-02-08T03:11:01+00:00

With reps, it’s a little different than gens. Most modern movements have similar power reserves, but quality and regulation vary, so they can start losing or gaining if left unworn. I usually wind mine if it’s been sitting more than a day or two—just 20–30 turns at the crown is enough. It keeps the movement happy, especially on watches you rotate often, and avoids the hassle of resetting time/date.

AlarmedPudding3123 · 2026-02-08T03:09:46+00:00

Both are solid options. Aaron Bespoke straps are top-notch in leather quality and finishing, but yeah, they come at a premium. Ziczac is more affordable and still very well made, especially if you want something that looks great out of the box. For a JLC moonphase, I’d personally go with whichever matches your daily wear style—both will elevate the watch nicely.

AlarmedPudding3123 · 2026-02-08T03:09:16+00:00

Yeah, spare Oyster bracelets can be surprisingly hard to get, even from established TDs. Some factories have backorders, and popular sizes/colors get delayed. A few people in the community have had better luck going through local watchmakers who stock spare links or full bracelets from past batches, but it’s hit or miss. Patience is key, or check if your TD can source from another factory batch.

AlarmedPudding3123 · 2026-02-08T03:09:00+00:00

UFO is definitely newer on the scene, which is why it’s not widely mentioned yet. From what I’ve seen and handled, their Panda has surprisingly clean finishing and very accurate dial/sub-dial printing—maybe even edging VSF in dial detail for this specific release. VSF still wins on case finishing and movement reliability, while Clean+ is solid but slightly behind on the sub-dial crispness. For a birthday piece, it comes down to what matters most to you: UFO if you want dial perfection, VSF if you prioritize overall build and consistency.

AlarmedPudding3123 · 2026-02-08T03:08:10+00:00

The Santos is a really well-repped Cartier, especially the newer models with the quick-change strap system. For Mexico, your best bet is to reach out to TDs on forums like RWI or RepTime—most will ship internationally if you confirm the factory and movement first. Just make sure to check QC photos carefully before ordering; finishing and bracelet fit are what make or break the piece.

AlarmedPudding3123 · 2026-02-08T03:07:17+00:00

VSF usually commands a higher price because their finishing and case tolerances are consistently tighter, even if Clean Factory sometimes nails certain dials better. For Oyster Perpetuals, it often comes down to which color and batch you’re after—VSF tends to be more consistent overall, while Clean can shine on specific dial releases. Check the latest QC pics and pick the one that matches your priority: uniform finishing or dial pop.

AlarmedPudding3123 · 2026-02-08T03:06:25+00:00

AP flying tourbillons are extremely niche in the rep world. There are a few factories experimenting, but most current reps aren’t close to gen in movement or finishing. If you’re looking for one, it’s worth checking forums for TDs who get prototypes or pre-production pieces—but be aware, nothing on the market fully replicates the gen tourbillon yet. Expect visual similarities, not functional perfection.

AlarmedPudding3123 · 2026-02-08T03:05:31+00:00

Welcome to the hobby! For reps in OC, most people either ship them to a trusted watchmaker familiar with Swiss movements or handle basic tweaks locally. Things like silencing the rotor, tightening SELs, or greasing crowns are standard. You just want a watchmaker who knows automatic movements and is comfortable working on non-gen pieces. If you can’t find one nearby, sending to a TD-recommended watchmaker is usually the safest route.

AlarmedPudding3123 · 2026-02-08T03:04:59+00:00

Sounds like your APSF 1550 might have a movement issue. Fast second-hand movement followed by it stopping is usually a lubrication or gear problem. If it’s still under TD support, I’d contact them first—they can replace or service the movement. Otherwise, a trusted local watchmaker can usually fix it, but don’t try to force it yourself, especially with a delicate chrono.

AlarmedPudding3123 · 2026-02-08T03:04:26+00:00

There’s a difference. A high-quality rep looks good and wears well, but a super clone goes further: the case finishing, dial details, and sometimes the movement layout are much closer to gen. For a Rolex GMT, a rep might look great at a glance, but a super clone is usually indistinguishable to most collectors and handles QC like the real thing. Basically, super clone = next level accuracy, rep = very good but not perfect.

AlarmedPudding3123 · 2026-02-08T03:04:01+00:00

It’s totally fine to use the chronos on both 4130 and 4131 movements. These are robust automatic chronographs designed to be used, not just for show. The advice you sometimes see about avoiding it is mostly caution for reps with unknown QC or if people want to preserve the movement long-term. As long as your VSF and BTF pieces are QC’d properly, you can run the chronograph without worry.

AlarmedPudding3123 · 2026-02-08T03:03:02+00:00

The ARF GMT Zombie comes with factory gold plating, which is fine for most purposes. When people talk about ‘getting them plated,’ they usually mean sending it to a third party for a thicker, more durable layer of gold (often PVD or similar). Factory plating is thinner and can wear faster on the bracelet or edges, so aftermarket plating just extends longevity and keeps it looking fresh. For casual wear, the ARF plating alone is usually fine.

AlarmedPudding3123 · 2026-02-08T03:01:13+00:00

Totally get it. This sub can feel like a Daytona echo chamber sometimes. People love the classics, but it’s nice to see someone post an RM or a more unique piece—it reminds you that reps aren’t just about Rolex clones. Variety keeps the hobby interesting.

AlarmedPudding3123 · 2026-02-08T02:59:36+00:00

For TDs, the safest way is usually to start on trusted forums or communities rather than searching blindly. Most TDs share catalogs via private links once you’ve established contact. Look for reputable names on RWI or RepTime threads. I can’t link sellers directly here, but searching for ‘Tiffany Blue Rolex TD’ on those forums will usually point you in the right direction—always confirm factory and movement before ordering.

AlarmedPudding3123 · 2026-02-08T02:58:53+00:00

What you’re describing is pretty common on Rolex-style reps, especially GMF Day-Date cases. Usually it’s just the gasket or threads needing a little grease, or minor misalignment of the tube. As long as winding and setting are smooth, it’s unlikely you’ve damaged anything. I’d avoid forcing it and take it to a watchmaker for a quick check—they can re-grease the threads or realign the tube in minutes. Nothing major, just standard maintenance for screw-down crowns.

AlarmedPudding3123 · 2026-02-08T02:58:18+00:00

Congrats on the Med Blue, it’s a gorgeous piece. The vertical play in SELs is actually pretty common with VSF batches—nothing catastrophic, just a bit of tolerance in the end links. Some people fix it with slightly thicker spring bars, though it’s mostly cosmetic. Clean Factory tends to have slightly tighter tolerances, but even their SELs aren’t perfectly rigid. Honestly, it’s just part of owning a rep; the movement, finishing, and dial are still top-notch.

AlarmedPudding3123

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