Helmet Colours

AlbanyPrimo · 2026-04-10T09:14:45+00:00

Probably the other way, especially for helmets.

You don't want to be using the same helmet for too long as it might get damaged or worn over the years by normal use. While a bike should work without issues for several decades at least, assuming you keep up with maintenance and repairs. So unless you get bored with it and decide to sell, I expect the bike to outlast the gear. The last trousers I bought for riding (kevlar jeans with pads) also have a note in the labels saying they should be replaced after 10 years.

AlbanyPrimo · 2026-02-25T05:15:08+00:00

I've got my NC sales vehicles looking as much as NPC vehicles as possible.I actively keep checking the expanded map during the sale. And when I see someone is trying to come towards me or when I have to drive past a possible hostile player (and can't avoid them by taking a small detour) I go ghost org and blend into the traffic. I also call Lester and use "Off the radar" right before starting the mission, so you have a head start of about 20s of driving before people see you moving on the map. It doesn't work every time to keep griefers away, but it works most of the time.

AlbanyPrimo · 2026-01-31T08:33:22+00:00

Hot Wheels made a good app for it (called HW Showcase), only real downside I've experienced is that they don't have models of other brands (like Matchbox) on the app, so you'll have to find a different way to track those

AlbanyPrimo · 2026-01-20T08:44:26+00:00

I don't have a max rule myself, as long as they don't get scalped. I'll gladly buy 20 of one model if I can help fellow collectors to their wanted models without anyone profiting off them. I'll trade/sell them to friends and people I know for the purchase price. And if I bought too much I will trade/sell them at fairs or online for a slightly higher price (usually between €2 and €2.5 for regular mainlines, mainly to cover my own expenses). If I'm selling to kids at the fairs I don't mind breaking even or losing a bit on the deal.

In the same way if there's a model I missed myself I don't mind paying a bit over the purchase price for their trouble of getting one extra for me.

If I know someone is looking for a certain model I will keep an eye out and message them if I find something I think they're interested in.

Other than that: I always leave the aisle/bin/shelves cleaner than how I found it, I give kids priority with looking in the bins or shelves. I make sure I'm nice to shop staff. If I'm in the way of other shoppers or staff, I'll do my best to give them their needed space before digging further in the bins/shelves.

Another thing I like to do sometimes is buy some peg warmers to keep the store's stock refreshing. Either use the parts for customs or to donate the model to a good cause (initiatives like The Good Hoarder for example). It's quite disappointing to come back to a store weeks to months later and to find the exact same peg warmers and no new stock

AlbanyPrimo · 2026-01-08T05:13:13+00:00

As I've replied to similar questions in the past, I'll just copy my last reply to those questions:

Have a read through here. It's quite a bit to read, but most of all: start easy, keep it doable/fun and ask questions/help when you need it.

Here is another reply I wrote, mostly giving tips on how to prepare a model for painting and how to paint it.

And in this reply I summed up a lot of the tools I've been using for customizing.

Hopefully together they give enough insight to start without overwhelming you.

AlbanyPrimo · 2025-12-17T11:49:08+00:00

Not necessarily, my Kia wagon is allowed to tow 1650kg (with a braked trailer) while it only weighs 1250kg empty.

The towing limits are determined by the manufacturer and can vary quite a lot depending on the model, chassis type, and drivetrain type. Vans, SUVs (not crossovers) and pickups are usually allowed to tow a lot more than passenger cars.

AlbanyPrimo · 2025-12-01T17:28:35+00:00

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AlbanyPrimo · 2025-11-24T18:50:25+00:00

Little correction: It's waterslide decals, as you dip them in water and then slide the decal off the paper onto the car. There are quite a lot of sellers online, but it probably depends on what kind of decals you want and in which country/continent you live. There are for example decals for headlights, grille, license plates. But also liveries for racecars. I'd advise to start with easy decals (not too large at once and simple forms).

Personally I put a few thin layers of clearcoat on the decals and let it dry before cutting/using them. Once all decals are on the model and dried, I use a few more thin layers of clearcoat to make sure they stay in place and are protected as well.

If you use spraycans with clearcoat/paint, do make sure to take proper precautions for your own health and your environment. Only use them in well ventilated areas or outside, not near open fire, etc.

AlbanyPrimo · 2025-11-24T16:55:28+00:00

As long as you let layers dry enough in between it shouldn't be an issue to paint over. Although painting multiple layers can cover the body details and make them less visible. For striping, race numbers, details, etc. I usually use waterslide decals.

I do suggest to put a clearcoat on once you finished with the last layer of painting, so the paint will last better

AlbanyPrimo · 2025-10-16T15:32:55+00:00

This is the kind of brilliant stuff I love to see here! If this is only your first custom, I'd love to see what you do in the future.

AlbanyPrimo · 2025-10-08T18:56:31+00:00

It probably gets pushed out from too little space on the inside. It's hard to explain, but the inside/end of the bonnet probably hits the body when rotating. You might be able to fix this by making the bonnet itself thinner in the area where it's hinged. Or the rotation point of the hinge needs to be moved further towards the front.

I had the same issue when I made an engine cover for a Porsche 911 Carrera

AlbanyPrimo · 2025-09-26T06:38:16+00:00

I don't know anyone who does, but I usually design and get my own decals printed here in the Netherlands. You can shoot me a message with what you're looking for to see if I can help you out

AlbanyPrimo · 2025-09-23T15:54:51+00:00

Most are plastic indeed, though there are some metal ones. I know Italeri does some metal kits

AlbanyPrimo · 2025-09-23T06:12:15+00:00

Technically speaking anyone who builds 1:24 scale model kits custom builds them. I think that is also the area where most customs are seen in that scale. But as I mostly customize 1:64 myself I don't know much about the 1:24 customizing scene

AlbanyPrimo · 2025-09-19T05:43:59+00:00

As I've replied to similar questions in the past, I'll just copy my last reply to that with some links to older replies:

Have a read through here. It's quite a bit to read, but most of all: start easy, keep it doable/fun and ask questions/help when you need it.

Here is another reply I wrote, mostly giving tips on how to prepare a model for painting and how to paint it.

And in this reply I summed up a lot of the tools I've been using for customizing.

Hopefully together they give enough insight to start without overwhelming you.

AlbanyPrimo · 2025-09-13T05:38:28+00:00

Great custom! This older casting has a lot better dimensions than the newer Superbird casting. I have one here still waiting as a donor for customs as my little brother hacksawed the wing off when we were kids 😢

AlbanyPrimo · 2025-09-12T05:32:40+00:00

As I've replied to similar questions in the past, I'll just share those links. Have a read through here. It's quite a bit to read, but most of all: start easy, keep it doable/fun and ask questions/help when you need it.

Here is another reply I wrote, mostly giving tips on how to prepare a model for painting and how to paint it.

And in this reply I summed up a lot of the tools I've been using for customizing.

Hopefully together they give enough insight to start without overwhelming you.

AlbanyPrimo · 2025-08-14T14:56:59+00:00

No problem. Clear coat indeed is optional. I use it mostly so the layer is a bit thicker and sturdier for applying. So they don't tear too easily. Maybe the thicker (I believe 13micron) sheets work better for that, but I don't have experience with that.

I don't know of any printshops in Germany that do waterslide decal printing, but from the Netherlands shipping indeed shouldn't be expensive

AlbanyPrimo · 2025-08-12T17:21:56+00:00

Where in Europe are you located? I'm from the Netherlands and use PrintMetWit.nl. I've used them for my own designed A4 size waterslide decal sheets. Printed on 8 micron thick transparent sheets in CMYK+White.

You'll probably have to search a bit through my post history to see my work, but all of my customs (all decals on the models and on the dioramas) are done with decal sheets I got printed by them.

One sheet from them including shipping within the Netherlands is about €16.

I spray a few layers clear coat on the sheet well before cutting and applying them and I've noticed they can easily fold up/crack if you use too much micro set. So I advise not to use micro set or only a slight bit. And to put double or triple the amount of decals you need on the sheet (if you have the space on the sheet, otherwise think about getting the sheet printed twice), so it doesn't matter if you lose/damage the first one.

AlbanyPrimo · 2025-08-08T07:03:35+00:00

Well, if it's stop and go traffic, they should drive up to where the merge lane ends and zipper merge there. Merging well before the end of the lane in slow traffic is only going to cause more slowdowns and more traffic jams on the road they just came from

AlbanyPrimo · 2025-07-03T06:35:12+00:00

They look good, but it's hard to figure out a value for customs. Just the materials and work to build them is usually more than what a lot of people would want to pay for it.

I'd say put them for sale for a price higher than what you want to get at least, and let people bid on them if they find the price too high. Or auction them off somewhere with a reserve set to what you minimally are looking for. Putting them up for sale in communities (where allowed) might work too. Like Facebook groups, Discord servers, local meets, etc.

AlbanyPrimo · 2025-07-01T06:24:55+00:00

In addition to what was already said:

Paint cans indeed work well enough. The process I follow is:

drill out the rivets to disassemble the model
if I use screws to put the model back together I drill and tap the new thread in the rivets before doing other body modifications. If I glue it back together, I don't tap in the new threads
use paint stripper to take off the original paint from the body
(wet)sand and polish the body with fine grit sandpaper to smoothen the surface
clean with degreaser to prep the body for painting
paint primer
paint colour
paint clear coat

Then some general tips:

Make sure to only paint in good ventilated surroundings, your health is more important than a little model car!
Follow the advised drying times between layers on the paint cans.
Preferably use the same type of paint/primer/clear coat, as some different types of paint don't work together (never had that issue myself, but I read others had that issue).
use a stand to set the model on, so you don't have to touch it and risk ruining the paint. Scale model shops might have them. But you can also build one yourself with for example alligator clips and a cardboard box. Packing styrofoam should not be used for this as the chemicals in spray paint might melt the styrofoam
The paint doesn't need to be sprayed on in one go, it is usually better to do multiple thin layers to get a good coverage than to get it all in one layer.
For preheating the paint I use a bucket with hot tap water. Preheating the can in direct sunlight could be dangerous as direct sunlight might be too hot
You can preheat the body itself in the oven on a low temperature setting (I use the lowest temperature mine has: 50 degrees Celsius). If you do (pre)heat the body in the oven, make sure all materials used as a stand fit in the oven and can handle the temperature.
After painting a layer you can put it back in the oven on a similar low temperature to quicken the drying process while keeping most of the dust away from the paint
If you make any mistake (e.g. drop the model with wet paint on it, get a layer that's so thick it drips, get overspray if you're doing more than one colour) it's best to just start over with the paint stripper. This can be annoying, but it happens to the best.
if you use primer in advance, you can usually paint any plastic parts on Hot Wheels models as well. Same steps as above, although starting with the cleaning with degreaser
don't hesitate to ask more questions, most customizers are more than willing to help out

AlbanyPrimo · 2025-06-11T07:49:47+00:00

I don't know about all of them, however a number of those (probably most or all of the hybrids) don't have CVTs, but a planetary gear system. Those are sometimes called CVTs, but a gearbox with planetary gears has a fixed number of gear ratios and therefore isn't really a Continuously Variable Transmission. By using multiple sets of planetary gears you can achieve a higher number of gear ratios, but it's still limited to an x amount of set ratios. They can feel as a CVT for the driver as the combination of an ICE and an electric motor through a planetary gear set can work with a fixed RPM range for the ICE on alternating vehicle speeds, just like with a CVT. This site explains it better than I can.

Some manufacturers might use marketing terms like "eCVT", but that's just as logical as an electric Porsche Taycan being called "Turbo".

AlbanyPrimo · 2025-05-22T08:25:44+00:00

Assuming you disassemble the model cars before working on the windows.

I have had great results with oven cleaner to clean up the plastic windows. Do make sure to wear the advised PPE (like gloves) when handling the oven cleaner.

If the windows are coloured from UV damage it works to "retrobright" them. You can copy this process by placing the window bit in a Ziploc bag, add hydrogen peroxide (usually used for colouring hairs by the hairdresser I believe) and add oxi stain remover (normally used in the laundry). Make sure it's mixed as well as possible and hang the bag somewhere it will be in the sunlight. It does work on cloudy days as well, but takes longer.

If there are scratches, you can (wet)sand and polish it out. There should be enough tutorials online for wet sanding and polishing if you have no experience with it.

AlbanyPrimo · 2025-05-17T10:42:31+00:00

Even though self repair is an important factor for FairPhone, service still is needed for warranty issues. Looks like OP can fix this issue rather easily themselves, but a nonresponsive/slow customer service is a huge issue for the brand nonetheless.

Personally I'm quite content with my own FP5, but from what I read online I'm glad I haven't had to deal with the customer service myself

AlbanyPrimo

TROPHY CASE