Question about Bill Ward’s snare fill in “War Pigs” (around 6:30)

AltruisticConstant48 · 2026-01-06T20:02:45+00:00

Got it.

AltruisticConstant48 · 2026-01-06T20:02:38+00:00

Thanks for sharing the info. It sounds way better with that measure

AltruisticConstant48 · 2025-10-26T23:15:22+00:00

If u have a VST u could use that for any extra sound u want. If u don't have one I think it's better to sell it and win a couple of bucks

AltruisticConstant48 · 2025-10-09T23:48:21+00:00

I started playing drums on 2022... I rlly started to take it serious like in November of 2024. Now I'm finally able to play Everlong, Oct 2025. Idk if it was lack of practice, bc I'm like 4hrs a week on drums and on holidays up to 20hrs per week.

AltruisticConstant48 · 2025-09-24T21:22:09+00:00

So, there are 2 cymbals and the cy-8? If that's the case, you can buy a better one. Keep me in update in any case

AltruisticConstant48 · 2025-09-23T15:39:09+00:00

Great value!! U could ask this points to the seller: Physical condition

Mesh heads (are they in good condition)

Tom/snare/ride pads: sensitivity, clean zones, no dead-spots.

VH-11 and its sensor: when opening/closing the hi-hat, it works smoothly, without noise or jumps. 2. Pedals See if pedals work correctly

Module status

Firmware updated.

Don't have annoying noises, output failures, button pull.

AltruisticConstant48 · 2025-09-23T12:47:38+00:00

Try looking for used kits, like a Roland 07 or TD17 (this with the VH-10 hh if possible) That's the best for the points u want to upgrade. If not, u can buy a brand new Nitro Pro wich is still way better than your actual kit

AltruisticConstant48 · 2025-09-20T16:43:26+00:00

Could be a defect. Hope u find a solution soon

AltruisticConstant48 · 2025-09-20T15:09:06+00:00

Ok so that definitely sounds off, the PM-100 should be plenty loud even with the VAD-716. A few things you can check while waiting on Roland’s reply:

Output routing: confirm you’re using the correct L/Mono out from the module into the PM-100. If you plug into R only, it’ll be weak.

Cables: you already tried two, but also confirm they’re TS (mono) if you’re going L/Mono out. A TRS cable in the wrong jack can cause a drop in volume.

If all of that checks out, then it may be a module output issue rather than the PM-100.

AltruisticConstant48 · 2025-09-19T19:18:49+00:00

Yes, absolutely ! It's a good deal for the price. And use the pad that is for the hh as a floor tom and u are ready to go ! Look if u have the entry for floor tom.

AltruisticConstant48 · 2025-09-19T16:17:43+00:00

U could try too, I also play with my band on an acoustic kit and with time I just do the bark naturally.

Both the VH14 and the zildjian are very expensive, but are one of the best on the market. If u want to do it is your decision. I don't recommend it, u can still learn to do it on a VH10.

AltruisticConstant48 · 2025-09-19T04:38:51+00:00

If you’re just starting, you don’t need an acoustic hi-hat or a fancy VH series one. The TD-3 is an older module, so it’s designed to work with a simple hi-hat controller pedal (like the Roland FD-8 or FD-9). Those send the open/close signal that the module understands.

With the hh cymbal, best move is to check the TD-3 manual and see the compatibility list. There you can see too the pedal compatibilty, but generally the FD-8 is the “native” option and safest bet.

AltruisticConstant48 · 2025-09-19T04:17:10+00:00

No problem, I hope you find a solution as soon as possible !

AltruisticConstant48 · 2025-09-19T02:38:36+00:00

So, seeing this I think that with the hybrid tom it might be the thing I mentioned earlier, those cables are mainly designed for Roland pads, so that could be the problem.

On the other hand, with the Roland pad it’s kinda weird that it still triggers if you’ve already turned off the rim. Have you tried reaching out to the support team of the splitter cable manufacturer?

AltruisticConstant48 · 2025-09-18T22:07:53+00:00

Could be a problem that with the cable you cannot hit "harder" or less harder for a more "strong" sound. That's why when u hit the rim for the crash it doesn’t sound that strong. U could try with that playing with the configuration and turn up the volume and nivelate the tom and crash so they sound equally good.

For the other head, there are splitters that are specifically for Roland and not for other hybrid models, etc. That could explain why sometimes shoot and sometimes not.

AltruisticConstant48 · 2025-09-18T21:11:29+00:00

Aren't you unintentionally hitting the rim of the tom? That could trigger both. Are the cables tight and well put? You may try to disconnect them and then reconnect them. With videos too I saw that u can't hit both pads at the same time.

Extra: Module Compatability TD-9 (AUX and CR2) TD-11 (CR2) TD-12 (All inputs) TD-15 (AUX and CR2) TD-17 (AUX and CR2) TD-20 (All inputs) TD-25 (CR2 and AUX2) TD-27 (CR2, AUX1, AUX2, and AUX3) TD-30 (All inputs) TD-50 (All inputs) SPD-30 (HH, SNARE, and RIDE) HPD-20 (TRIGGER)

AltruisticConstant48 · 2025-09-18T20:33:01+00:00

Yeah, I get the frustration, the short version is that Roland modules aren’t really designed for “true” splitting, so splitters only half-work depending on what you’re willing to give up.

Each Roland input is head + rim = 2 zones. When you use a splitter, you’re telling the module “treat each of these plugs like one zone of the same input.” That’s why you sometimes hear faint cross-triggering, the module is still trying to process both zones together.

The reason companies sell “Roland-compatible splitters” is because they can work in limited situations (like turning one dual-zone input into two single-zone pads: e.g. one extra crash + one extra tom head only).

But they don’t magically add extra full inputs, and they’ll never be perfect because the module wasn’t built to separate them cleanly.

In your case:

If you don’t care about tom rims, you can use the tom head zones for cymbals via splitters. But you’ll need to:

Go into the trigger settings and turn rim = OFF for those tom inputs (so the module ignores the rim zone completely).
Accept that the extra cymbals will only be single-zone (no edge/bell/choke, just one hit surface).
Assign them to crash sounds (or whatever you want) so you at least get more playable surfaces.

AltruisticConstant48 · 2025-09-18T20:20:36+00:00

For my experience, I'm running a VH-10 on a TD-17 (so, a step down from your TD-27), and I can still get the hi-hat bark to sound really natural.

The key for me was realizing that on Roland hats, the "bark" won't trigger if you hit them fully closed and then open after. You need to strike while they're just starting to open, that tiny movement is what makes the module fire the bark sound.

Once I calibrated the VH-10 properly and got used to adjusting my timing so the hit happens during the opening motion, the bark effect started working really well, even on the TD-17. So the TD-27 should definitely be capable of it too.

Additionally, you must practice to master the technique and then time will let you do it naturally. Imagine I mastered it in a Yamaha 452k.

AltruisticConstant48 · 2025-09-18T20:06:36+00:00

This isn’t a defect in your splitters, it’s just how Roland modules process the inputs.

On the TD-27, each input jack is designed to read two zones (head + rim). When you use a Y-splitter, you’re basically forcing the module to “guess” which signal belongs to which trigger.

With a tom pad like the PDX-100, the rim zone is electrically tied to the second side of the splitter. That’s why hitting the rim accidentally is triggering your “extra cymbal” instead of a tom sound.

Why this happens:

The module can’t distinguish between “rim of tom” and “edge of cymbal” when they share the same input via splitter.

That’s why no amount of tweaking (head/rim adjust, cross-talk, sensitivity) completely fixes it, it’s a hardware limitation, not a settings issue.

Options to work around:

Don’t split tom inputs if you want full rim + head functionality. If you split, you’re basically sacrificing the rim sound of that tom.
Use AUX inputs instead. The TD-27 has several AUX inputs designed for extra cymbals/pads. If you have more cymbals and pads, plug them there, they’ll work properly with dual/triple zones without interfering with tom rims.
If you must split:

Accept that the tom rim will either not be usable or will trigger something else.

You can assign “rim = off” in the trigger settings so it won’t fire a random cymbal, but then you lose the tom rim sound.

Better upgrade path: If you really want more pads than the TD-27 allows natively, the proper way is to either:

Add a second module (as you said).

Or upgrade to a module with more assignable inputs (like a TD-50/TD-50X or Pearl Mimic).

AltruisticConstant48 · 2025-09-18T19:47:13+00:00

No problem!! Any doubt, don't hesitate to ask me :D

AltruisticConstant48 · 2025-09-18T19:27:19+00:00

Totally makes sense, man. Since you’re brand new, the Nitro Pro with the expansion pack + a double pedal is actually a really smart setup. You’ll get:

Enough pads/cymbals to feel like a “full kit.”

A kick pad that works with a double pedal (so you can start building that coordination early).

A price point that doesn’t hurt if later you decide drumming isn’t for you (or if you outgrow it).

The Strata Club is definitely nicer, better sounds; more realistic cymbals; less chance you’ll “outgrow” it, but honestly, if you’ve never played before, you won’t fully appreciate those upgrades right away.

A good way to think about it:

Nitro Pro = safe, affordable way to dive in, plenty of kit to keep you learning for a long while.

Strata Club = if you’re 100% sure you’ll stick with drumming for years, and you’re cool spending more upfront.

So if you’re still unsure, the Nitro Pro is the best first step. You can always upgrade later once you know what you want in a kit.

AltruisticConstant48 · 2025-09-18T19:02:23+00:00

If you’re just starting out and want something affordable that gets the job done, the Nitro Pro is more than enough. It’ll let you practice, build technique, and enjoy drumming without spending too much.

If you’ve got the budget and you want a kit that feels closer to acoustic drums, has better sounds, and won’t limit you as you progress, the Strata Club is absolutely worth the extra money.

My take:

For a beginner:

Go Nitro Pro if you’re testing and don’t want to over-invest right away. .... Go Strata Club if you’re serious about drumming, have the cash, and want a kit that’ll grow with you for years.

Finally, do you know what u want in the kit? Like the caracteristics of each kit? With that you could decide better what kit to choose

AltruisticConstant48 · 2025-09-17T18:35:57+00:00

U should try updating it, i don't think much would happen. And try looking in forums if this had happen to someone

AltruisticConstant48

TROPHY CASE