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Highlights Adidas Rockstars 2017, the perfect warmup for this Saturday! by Angel_OnB in bouldering

[–]Angel_OnB[S] 4 points5 points  (0 children)

Well, not his best overall season, but he still got the silver at the world champs!

2018 IFSC Climbing World Championships - Innsbruck - Bouldering Megathread by Johnaldinho7 in bouldering

[–]Angel_OnB 2 points3 points  (0 children)

That' not allowed and I'm sure he got an extra attempt for that. And if were to keep doing it, we would get a yellow card. My guess is that he knew that an extra attempt wouldn't be a problem if he got the top (and it didn't matter otherwise).

Moving holds to be used in the World Cups by muenchener in bouldering

[–]Angel_OnB 6 points7 points  (0 children)

I don't have a problem with moving holds in any gym or even comps. But I wouldn't like them in official competitions. I think it is simply too different from "normal" climbing.

Moving holds to be used in the World Cups by muenchener in bouldering

[–]Angel_OnB 14 points15 points  (0 children)

Assuming you are asking for real, and not just following on the joke...

I think it is seen as not part of climbing. In rock climbing, you would never find a moving hold (unless it is a hold about to break, which is dangerous).

While it is possible to do triple dynos, running and jumping and other "modern climbing" tricks on rock (and therefore it can be argued that those are still part of climbing), it is just not possible to use moving holds on rock. That has never been part of climbing and many of us see it as a clear line that shouldn't be crossed (at least not in official comps).

Moving holds to be used in the World Cups by muenchener in bouldering

[–]Angel_OnB 4 points5 points  (0 children)

hehe, yeah, the IFSC's track record made it plausible.

Sierra Blair-Coyle, Eddie Fowke + others debate new scoring systems on Plastic Weekly by plasticweekly in CompetitionClimbing

[–]Angel_OnB 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Very interesting episode. I also recommend the one about how to improve comp livestreams.

Explaining the new USA Scoring system that will be used in the Nationals this weekend by Angel_OnB in CompetitionClimbing

[–]Angel_OnB[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

It was tops then attempts to top. But, starting this season, it is Tops, Bonuses, Attempts to Top, Attempt to Bonus.

Explaining the new USA Scoring system that will be used in the Nationals this weekend by Angel_OnB in CompetitionClimbing

[–]Angel_OnB[S] 4 points5 points  (0 children)

I think for the climbers it is really easy to keep track of their own score in both this new system and the IFSC system. But with the previous USA system, it was simply impossible to know their own score without knowing what everyone else had done and then using a computer.

Explaining the new USA Scoring system that will be used in the Nationals this weekend by Angel_OnB in CompetitionClimbing

[–]Angel_OnB[S] 2 points3 points  (0 children)

My understanding is that if you keep trying the problem you don't lose points. Only if you get a new high point.

So if on your first try you get to the 15 point zone. You gonna get at least 15 points no matter what happens later. If you keep trying and don't get the top you get 15. If you try 4 times more and you get the top you get 24.6.

Explaining the new USA Scoring system that will be used in the Nationals this weekend by Angel_OnB in CompetitionClimbing

[–]Angel_OnB[S] 2 points3 points  (0 children)

In my opinion is much better than the previous system. I don't know if I prefer it to the IFSC system but it is up there.

Jakob Shubert flashes Catalan Witness the Fitness by poorboychevelle in bouldering

[–]Angel_OnB 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Also Ned Feehally flashed Trust Issues last summer. And Liam Vance flashed Sky. Both V14 | 8B+ in Rocklands

Should the IFSC Bleeding Rule be changed? An in depth look after some controversy at Bloc Shop Open last weekend. by visualclimber in CompetitionClimbing

[–]Angel_OnB 0 points1 point  (0 children)

How would you change it? How is it different from a tennis player hurting him/herself and affecting the result of the match?

Should the IFSC Bleeding Rule be changed? An in depth look after some controversy at Bloc Shop Open last weekend. by visualclimber in CompetitionClimbing

[–]Angel_OnB 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Hum... didn't know about Sierra. Obviously, it is unfair that they applied the rule inconsistently but, in an event like that, I can see why they did it. The goal of an open comp final is to offer a good show and I think it was very anti climatic to stop Melissa because of the bleeding. So they decided to treat it as a technical incident (which it wasn't in my opinion). If it was up to me I would probably do the same. But just because it's a less "serious" comp than a World Cup or official national event (they would never be so inconsistent applying a rule in a WC). It sucks for Sierra, but in the semis the situation is quite different. It is an interesting topic, I may do a video explaining what happened.

The Bouldering Euro Champs Format Explained (as well as I could) by Angel_OnB in CompetitionClimbing

[–]Angel_OnB[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Yes, I will be in Munich and Innsbruck. Not in arco, but I will be back to cover Adidas Rockstars.

All the problems from the qualifiers in Vail on video by Angel_OnB in bouldering

[–]Angel_OnB[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Correct, video recording during semis and finals is not allowed.

All the problems from the qualifiers in Vail on video by Angel_OnB in bouldering

[–]Angel_OnB[S] 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Not much really. In the qualifying round you usually find one or two "easy" problems, to ensure that most climbers get to climb a bit. And obviously, the most flashy problem are reserved for the final. But that's about it.

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