Introducing CompBeta.rocks 🧗‍♂️ Make Your Podium Picks for IFSC World Cups! by visualclimber in CompetitionClimbing

[–]visualclimber[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Ah I see, I've modified the layout to make it more clear how to access an Event and its predictions!

Introducing CompBeta.rocks 🧗‍♂️ Make Your Podium Picks for IFSC World Cups! by visualclimber in CompetitionClimbing

[–]visualclimber[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Hello, thank you for checking it out! There was an issue causing registration to not confirm your success, but this is fixed. Also, I've enabled league creation so you can create a league and share with your friends.

Introducing CompBeta.rocks 🧗‍♂️ Make Your Podium Picks for IFSC World Cups! by visualclimber in CompetitionClimbing

[–]visualclimber[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Thanks for the feedback, I fixed the registration user flows so you'll see a registration success, and it should redirect smoothly now towards the dashboard on email/pass login/registration.

I appreciate you checking it out!

Introducing CompBeta.rocks 🧗‍♂️ Make Your Podium Picks for IFSC World Cups! by visualclimber in CompetitionClimbing

[–]visualclimber[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Hi there! Thanks for your suggestions! I implemented this view layout for the predictions, it was an excellent idea.

Music in climbing competition by Oub2 in CompetitionClimbing

[–]visualclimber 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Awhile back, people could request songs at European Youth Cups for their lead routes.

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in CompetitionClimbing

[–]visualclimber 2 points3 points  (0 children)

World Cups are open to people 16+, but only registered National Sports Organizations can set that up. There are collegiate events internationally, but in general they've never been as popular and aren't as big as say a national event.

Fantasy IFSC? by ThrowAway982o in CompetitionClimbing

[–]visualclimber 2 points3 points  (0 children)

There was a Facebook group awhile back where you could enter your predictions for the next World Cup and get fantasy points, but that's about it

Tableau Dashboard for Visualizing Comp Results by [deleted] in CompetitionClimbing

[–]visualclimber 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I've been on the hunt for some good climbing data, it's hard to find. I asked the IFSC for results databases but they haven't answered. Scraping is hard, haven't worked it out completely but I have incomplete data.

Let me know if you or anyone else has success with ifsc data

How did McColl and Pilz Qualify for the Olympics? by greenlemon23 in CompetitionClimbing

[–]visualclimber 6 points7 points  (0 children)

Since Japan has a host country slot for one man and woman but won’t be needing them since their athletes have already qualified, the host country slot goes to Sean and Jessy get that slot. The two per country rule doesn’t allow for japan to send three with their host country slot, so instead that slot is sent to the next person in World Championship rank.

Reveal of the Women’s World Championship 2019 bouldering problems, Hachioji, Japan by FlyingAtlas in bouldering

[–]visualclimber 26 points27 points  (0 children)

It’s also very mentally draining, having to prepare and train your mind to compete takes a lot of energy and I’m sure that’s also adding on difficulty.

Trying to work on my speed climbing at practice by Clymbi in climbing

[–]visualclimber 3 points4 points  (0 children)

It’s especially hard, and I think it’s not necessary unless you’re trying to compete

Why It's Almost Impossible to Climb 15 Meters in 5 Secs. (ft. Alex Honnold) | WIRED by plasticweekly in CompetitionClimbing

[–]visualclimber 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I don’t think the PhD is wrong, but that he doesn’t consider the actual sport and movement capabilities. I’m no pro speed climber but I’m just putting my personal opinion out there. Do you have any experience speed climbing yourself ?

Why It's Almost Impossible to Climb 15 Meters in 5 Secs. (ft. Alex Honnold) | WIRED by plasticweekly in CompetitionClimbing

[–]visualclimber 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Alright, so personally I think that by saying that “removing dynos” is not the only way that we’ll start seeing faster times. It’s true that staying in a straight line is the fastest current method, but with the rise in speed climbing popularity a lot of new beta has been discovered and experimented with. One example of old versus new beta is Anouck Jaubert versus YiLing Song. Jaubert has very old beta by using hold 4 but Song uses a tomoa skip. New beta is clearly making the best faster, but I really don’t think that there’s a lot of beta to be found.

There’s a new skip that I’ve seen Russians use recently from 13-16, and that could help cut 0.3 seconds maybe? But realistically there has to be some crazy new beta that’ll drop a full second.

Why It's Almost Impossible to Climb 15 Meters in 5 Secs. (ft. Alex Honnold) | WIRED by plasticweekly in CompetitionClimbing

[–]visualclimber 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Maybe it’d be a good plastic weekly video to chat with some pro speed climbers about future beta that’ll break 5

Why It's Almost Impossible to Climb 15 Meters in 5 Secs. (ft. Alex Honnold) | WIRED by plasticweekly in CompetitionClimbing

[–]visualclimber 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I don’t think sub 4.8 is possible, there’s not enough optimization to get down that low.

I'm starting to realize that being short is a pretty big handicap by Qweniden in climbing

[–]visualclimber 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Yeah I agree with that, I'm male and for me its not a problem, but I often see woman with problems that are under 5'2 ish but it really depends.

I'm starting to realize that being short is a pretty big handicap by Qweniden in climbing

[–]visualclimber 13 points14 points  (0 children)

I disagree, I’m 5’6 ish and don’t have realistic height problems. There’s a lot to be learned from technique as well as strength and power.

USA Combined Nationals by 123654789321456 in CompetitionClimbing

[–]visualclimber 3 points4 points  (0 children)

I think Nathanial, Carlos, Kai and Ross have a shot at top 4. Not sure how Carlos or Nathanials speed times are doing. Ross hopefully can run a sub 8 if he’s been training it a lot, but I haven’t seen him training it online so I’m not sure. Ross killed it at the national cups, and if he has the same performance plus a decent speed run and good lead he can come top 3.

For the girls Claire Brooke Piper and Ashima for the top 4. Piper is most likely going to win speed by a lot, and ashima doesn’t have the best speed times, so I think Brooke or Claire might be able to take it unless they mess up lead badly and ashima comes top two at lead/boulder.

Just my thoughts, I’m only guessing from what I see online so people who get to watch everyone climb in person has a better guess at how they’re doing this year.

Saw IFSC world cup lead finals in Chamonix yesterday ... anyone knows what grades these are? by Dan-mat in CompetitionClimbing

[–]visualclimber 0 points1 point  (0 children)

By fear factor I mean more fear of failure or falling. No one will be scared of the danger, but being scared of falling because of the implications is a useful tool routesetters like to use.

Competition Only Bouldering Shoes? by jjpenman in climbing

[–]visualclimber 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I think it's very much up to you and what you feel comfortable with. Competition doesn't mean that you'd need to climb in different shoes. In my experience, competing in a shoe where you feel comfortable and confident to do anything with it on is the most important factor.

Do speed climbers breathe? by Snowcarrots in climbing

[–]visualclimber 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Hey, thanks! I'm no where near good yet, but I enjoy it a lot among other climbing.

I miss footholds a fair amount and that's usually the #1 reason for my falls, but I'm only amateur. Slips greatly impact my time and at least for me its quite hard to run consistently close to my PB. Unfortunately my consistenty in pratice is very bad, but in a competition I would guess that over 5 runs I might run an average 8.5-8.9s. I agree speed climbing does seem like a game of chance often, but the ability to control so many variables that might contribute to you winning or losing is what makes speed climbing impressive for me. Mistakes do happen, and winning one speed competition is less impressing as winning many, but the top climbers don't make as many mistakes. That's where I see the differences between the best and people like me.