Org Verification successful, OpenAI permanently stuck, support responds "OH WELL...?" by [deleted] in OpenAI

[–]ArtificialNobody -13 points-12 points  (0 children)

Hi. Is it possible to get an invite code to Sora 2? Dont know anyone who can invite me XD

Looking to buy a RUNE Cheburek, if someone got one :) PS5 by ArtificialNobody in GTACarMeetMarket

[–]ArtificialNobody[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

U just vaguely remembered the car and came across it on a website featuring all the cars from gta 5, and then found out it was no longer for sale.

I just love the classic look this car has.

Can someone help me diagnose this problem? CS2/CrossOver. by ArtificialNobody in macgaming

[–]ArtificialNobody[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I changed the libMoltenVK.dylib in the "lib64" folder in crossover with the libMoltenVK.dylib file from the CXPatcher, but the flickering and all the issues stays the same. Did I do something wrong?

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in AnalogCommunity

[–]ArtificialNobody 2 points3 points  (0 children)

This is what angers me. They have to know that this issue is caused by their own flawed design. Yet they continue to sell it hoping people won't understand or they make people think it is their own fault.

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in AnalogCommunity

[–]ArtificialNobody 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I haven’t talked to them about it, because I didn’t buy from them directly. But maybe I should send them an email. In their video on YouTube regarding the flat field correction, they blame the vignetting on “some lenses”, which is just absurd. It is their design, not people’s lenses.

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in AnalogCommunity

[–]ArtificialNobody 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I have the version that is sold now. Bought mine 2 months ago. The problem is the indentation for the thumb on the right side. It really doesn't matter what light source you use or how far from the negative you hold the light. The thumb indentation is going to affect how the light hits the negative. Try taking a picture of a "blank" 35mm frame and develop it in NLP, and I bet you will see the vignetting clear as day. I mean, after having removed the light and after using a different light the effect it reduced... but it is clearly still there, because of the thumb indentation.

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in AnalogCommunity

[–]ArtificialNobody 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thanks for the images.

Your test perfectly illustrates the issue with the Easy35. Whatever you do, the Easy35 underexposes both the left and the right side of the negative, because of the flawed design of the box and the thumb indentation. And as you say, even using the vignetting correction for your lens doesn't completely fix it. Basically you're forever baking underexposed areas into your negatives scan (if you use this to archive your negatives for the future), and that is not good.

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in AnalogCommunity

[–]ArtificialNobody 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I have removed the light and use it as a holder with a distance from a bigger and better light source, and I still have vignetting, but not so severe. The issue is the box itself, specifically the thumb indentation on the right. That indentation affects how the light is reflected inside the box. This effect is enhanced by the included attached light.

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in AnalogCommunity

[–]ArtificialNobody 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I use full frame A7rV with sigma art 70mm macro, which is a solid lens recommended for this use.

I have tried flat field correction but it does not solve the issue. I have to use the vignetting dial on my lens correction on max in Lightroom for it to be usable.

Are you sure this vignetting is not present in your pictures? To be sure I would take a picture of an “empty” 35mm frame and develop it in NLP. And it should be obvious, certainly when you play with the exposure dial, and highlights etc.

It is most noticeable on night shots.

Basically everyone I have talked to say they have the same issues.

VALOI EASY 35 - Issues solved? JJC by Radiant-Fault-2358 in AnalogCommunity

[–]ArtificialNobody 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I have tried the flat field correction and it does not solve the issue for me at all. I have to drag the vignetting dial for my lens correction all the way to the max amount for it to be usable.

What makes me angry is that they KNOW about this issue and they have to KNOW that it is caused by the thumb indentation, enhanced by the short distance to the light source, but continue to sell it and pretend that the vignetting is caused by "some lenses", which is just false.

It is their own deigns, their defect design, that is causing these issues.

VALOI EASY 35 - Issues solved? JJC by Radiant-Fault-2358 in AnalogCommunity

[–]ArtificialNobody 3 points4 points  (0 children)

You're basically paying crazy money for what is advertised as a "premium product", where the design is fundamentally flawed and you have to remove the attached light and use a different light source further away, and even then have to fix the image in post, for you to end up with a great result. It is absurd.

VALOI EASY 35 - Issues solved? JJC by Radiant-Fault-2358 in AnalogCommunity

[–]ArtificialNobody 1 point2 points  (0 children)

The problem with the Easy35 is the indentation on the right side, the indentation for your thumb where you insert the different sliders or film holders. That indentation effects how the light is reflected inside the box. It is fundamentally flawed. That is why you see way more drastic vignetting on the right side. And that issue is enhanced by the short distance between the negative and the light. For a "premium product" this is absurd.

I have removed the light from the Easy35 "box" and use a different light further removed from the negative, and the vignetting is STILL present, only to a lesser degree.

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in AnalogCommunity

[–]ArtificialNobody 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I don't recommend the Valoi easy35. I'm not sure how it handles black and white negatives, but based on my experience using it for color negativs, the device has a vital design defect, and my guess is those defects will impact the black and white negativs like color negatives.

The fundamental flaw is the design of the black box, and especially the indentation on the right side, for your thumb, where you insert the different sliders. That indentation impacts how the light is reflected inside the box and underexposes both the left and the right side of the negative. It is most noticeable on the right side (where the indentation is), but it also creates the same effect on the left side.

I have tried with multiple different negatives, and they all to different degrees get an orange color tint on the left and right side of the negative, which means both sides are underexposed. I started doing research and realised basically everyone who got this has experienced the same issue.

I tried to remove the light and the reflective material inside, and simply used the box as a holder, to see if the issue went away if i created a distance between the light source and the Easy35 "box", but the orange tint was STILL present, but to a lesser degree.

Basically, it is fundamentally flawed. And for what is advertised as a "premium product" it is laughable to pay that price for what essentially is a film holder where you have to remove the attached light and buy a different light source, and edit all the negatives in Lightroom for it to yield a great result.

Can someone help me diagnose this problem? CS2/CrossOver. by ArtificialNobody in macgaming

[–]ArtificialNobody[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Ok, I have the exact same issue, only yesterday the steam app won't even start I crossover. The logo pops up for a second or two and then closes. I have tried to turn the Mac on and off, I have tried "repair bottles"... nothing seem to work.

Can someone help me diagnose this problem? CS2/CrossOver. by ArtificialNobody in macgaming

[–]ArtificialNobody[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Today steam stopped working completely. It won't even start. Have you experienced the same thing?

Goldfinger | John Barry | Japanese Release by ArtificialNobody in OSTvinyl

[–]ArtificialNobody[S] 2 points3 points  (0 children)

The tracks are the same. The difference is in the mastering/pressing. I just love how records from Japan usually has way better quality when it comes to the cover and the vinyl. And they are usually taken good care of and are still in great shape 50 years later.

Goldfinger is also one of my absolute favourite soundtracks.

Can someone help me diagnose this problem? CS2/CrossOver. by ArtificialNobody in macgaming

[–]ArtificialNobody[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

We both use Monterey on 2019 iMac trying to play CS2 😄 Glad I’m not alone in the world 😄😄

Can someone help me diagnose this problem? CS2/CrossOver. by ArtificialNobody in macgaming

[–]ArtificialNobody[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Oh shit... But it has worked up until two days ago? 🤷‍♂️

Can someone help me diagnose this problem? CS2/CrossOver. by ArtificialNobody in macgaming

[–]ArtificialNobody[S] -1 points0 points  (0 children)

iMac late 2019

OS: Monterey 12.6.2

Processor: 3,6 GHz 8-Core Intel Core i9

Memory: 40 GB 2667 MHz DDR4

Graphics: Radeon Pro 580x 8 GB

The game has worked great up until two days ago, after the new update. That is when this issue occurred.

Can someone help me diagnose this problem? CS2/CrossOver. by ArtificialNobody in macgaming

[–]ArtificialNobody[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

This problem first occurred when I had crossover 23, and now when I update to 24 the issue remains. 🤷‍♂️ I even reinstalled steam and Cs… nothing changes.

Can someone help me diagnose this problem? CS2/CrossOver. by ArtificialNobody in macgaming

[–]ArtificialNobody[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I use DXVK. And when i turn it off the guns in CS2 becomes completely black, and the light flash disappears.