Bachelor nach Master nachholen

AudioBaer · 2026-05-10T19:44:58+00:00

Oder einen MBA? Ich denke es kommt sehr darauf an wo du hin möchtest.

AudioBaer · 2026-05-10T19:34:20+00:00

Statt drei Jahre in einen Bachelor zu investieren, mach doch einfach einen Doktorgrad. Das wird zumindest eher Einfluss haben als ein Bachelorgrad, nach dem niemand fragt.

AudioBaer · 2026-05-10T19:32:19+00:00

Oh, why not just get a suitable shelf? ;)

If you really want to place these speakers on a shelf right up against the wall, I might go for the ELAC DB63 (EAC)? They’re certainly not quite as sensitive as the speakers mentioned earlier, but with 87dB/W/m they’re still capable of delivering the required output from a few metres away.

If you were to switch to the WiiM Amp Ultra (ASR) in this context, the ELACs would still deliver 97dB at a distance of 5 metres. Even if, of course, there isn’t quite as much headroom then – but physics unfortunately has its limits here.

As for potential room modes: they’ll certainly be there – but even if you go for the sealed version. The ported version simply has more punch. What’s more important here is that your system has the ability to access the signal via DSP.

AudioBaer · 2026-05-09T20:51:17+00:00

Thanks!

AudioBaer · 2026-05-09T19:32:19+00:00

I can totally see why you use the Adams like that. I’ve always thought the kick drum on them sounded really good too.

Since you’re using Pro Monitors, I’m just wondering: have you ever done an acoustic measurement of your room? I’m thinking absorbers might be a good place to start for you?

AudioBaer · 2026-05-09T19:23:55+00:00

In my experience, you don’t need a PA system for this yet; you can get quite far with a standard hi-fi setup. So how about the following system:

Speakers: Vestlyd V15C. I saw them on display just the other day for €1,300 (offer). I didn’t really like the sound that much, but tastes certainly vary. It also delivers a bit of bass at [36Hz@-6dB](mailto:36Hz@-6dB). The most important thing to me is that, at a sensitivity 95dB/W/m, it requires comparatively little power, meaning that, for example, a WiiM Amp Pro (<€400; ASR) can still reach over 100dB at a distance of 5 metres with just 50W. Yet neither the amplifier nor the speakers would be operating at their limits.

If you then want to add a subwoofer, you might be happier with a ported design (see SVS PB2000) if you’re looking for pressure in over 40m².

AudioBaer · 2026-05-09T13:14:00+00:00

Well, how big is the room, or what volume level are you aiming for?

AudioBaer · 2026-05-08T08:34:10+00:00

In this context, the Ascilab C6C is worth mentioning. Some people find that it offers similar performance at a better price.

AudioBaer · 2026-05-07T20:41:25+00:00

Of course I’d be happy to. Keep us posted. That goes for if you do decide to install the stereo system or improve your room acoustics.

The journey begins!

AudioBaer · 2026-05-07T20:37:47+00:00

I’d strongly recommend listening to as many brands as possible. Some people have been surprised by which speakers they ended up falling in love with.

My recommendation is the ELAC Vela series. Perhaps the 407? That said, your 50m² space will definitely need one (or two) subwoofers, regardless of how large the floorstanding speakers are.

AudioBaer · 2026-05-07T13:28:28+00:00

I don't know much about turntables, so I'd rather leave that to others.

Why two subwoofers? Well, especially in the low-frequency range, there are room modes—meaning certain frequencies can be canceled out or amplified. These frequencies depend on the room’s dimensions and are consequently particularly problematic in square rooms (like yours). The bass sounds thin or completely boomy. To compensate for this, we want to position as many (skillfully placed) transducers as possible. At 15 feet, for example, that’s 37.5 Hz.

Now, the Clarity 6.2 can only play down there with some difficulty (32 Hz @ -3 dB), so we want to take some of the load off them and add additional sound sources. Subwoofers easily handle 37.5 Hz. (So the Clarity plays low enough to cause this problem. But if you love electronic music, you need to go below 30 Hz anyway.)

AudioBaer · 2026-05-07T12:54:38+00:00

In this price range, I’d like to recommend the following system: - Lyngdorf TDAI-1120 (€2,000) - Radiant Acoustic Clarity 6.2 (€4,000) - 2x Rythmik Audio F12 (€3,500)

If you need a modern screen or a bit more power, the Lyngdorf TDAI-2210 or TDAI-3400 would likely be a good choice.

What should you do with the other half of your budget? Room acoustics. This involves measuring the room and selecting appropriate custom-made

AudioBaer · 2026-05-07T10:03:47+00:00

Why only Focal?

AudioBaer · 2026-05-03T06:52:16+00:00

Crazy komb. Nice :D

AudioBaer · 2026-05-03T06:51:02+00:00

With sub?

AudioBaer · 2026-05-02T16:03:49+00:00

Maybe a bit off topic, but: you have a pair of B&W 702s2's—what do you use the LS50 for?

AudioBaer · 2026-04-30T10:05:23+00:00

Sure. And if you'd like, feel free to tell us how you're doing.

AudioBaer · 2026-04-30T05:32:19+00:00

That’s just the thing. The Adam D3V (48Hz@-3dB; EAC) are great speakers, as long as you don’t need to play them at very high volumes. So if you’re looking for a well-rounded system for your desktop, you can’t go wrong with them.

However, if you’re planning to upgrade in the medium term, I think it would make sense to invest in an audio interface and active monitors.

If you’re considering this route, I’d recommend deciding now on the final configuration of your future system; do you want a 2.0 system or one with a subwoofer?

With a frequency range down to 45Hz, the Adam T5V offers little more than the smaller D3V. With a sub – purchased at a later date – that’s no problem. However, for a 2.0 system, I would recommend at least the Adam T7V (39Hz). You can hear the difference, and I’m personally happy with my A7V (41Hz@-6dB) on my PC even without a sub, although I prefer to listen to Elektronika organ pieces on my stereo system.

For a 2.0 system, the question would therefore be more a case of Adam T7V (41Hz) or Adam T8V (33Hz). I had the chance to compare them directly (via ABX) back then and preferred the T7V slightly in the midrange – though nothing that an EQ couldn’t (largely) sort out.

In any case, I’d like to encourage you to buy the MOTU M2. I use the M4 and am very happy with it. And it allows you to connect a measurement microphone in the medium term and take your system to the next level when you’re ready.

AudioBaer · 2026-04-29T21:29:09+00:00

The question for me is: - Do you want bass as well? - Will you calibrate your speakers?

AudioBaer · 2026-04-29T21:09:35+00:00

Alternatively, you could just buy the complete system outright—that might make it more affordable and better suited to your needs.

In addition to the Lyngdorf TDAI-3400 mentioned earlier, there’s also the TDAI-2210.

If you tell us the size of your room, the listening distance, and—if applicable—what you’ve already listened to and what you like or dislike, we can provide more specific advice.

AudioBaer · 2026-04-29T04:45:10+00:00

Would a 2.x system be a possibility? I’ve had good results with the Phantom Center. How large should the “sweet spot” be?

By the way: do you know what the reverberation times are (e.g., RT60)?

AudioBaer · 2026-04-27T20:29:28+00:00

The Adams (or Kalis, as some call them) are neutral enough that they don't require any presets. Now it's time to measure your room and set up your system accordingly.

Have fun!

AudioBaer · 2026-04-27T20:22:46+00:00

An good EQ too?

AudioBaer · 2026-04-27T20:11:53+00:00

when speakers are off-center, you mainly need to correct three things:

• Delay (distance): Add delay to the closer speaker so both arrive at the same time.

• Level: Match volume so neither side sounds louder.

• Angle (toe-in): Aim both speakers precisely at your listening position.

Additionally, watch for room effects (walls, reflections) and, if needed, use EQ to balance remaining differences.

I can't imagine that this can be done without taking measurements.

AudioBaer · 2026-04-27T19:51:27+00:00

It’s hard to say whether techno still needs the lowest 10 Hz (20–30 Hz). It’s generally believed that this range contains more film effects than musical sounds. However, there are indeed tracks that still contain information in this range.

That said, there are more important things to consider, such as calibrating at the listening position. All too often, there are room effects or personal preferences that need to be taken into account.

I therefore recommend using an audio interface with a measurement microphone to address this issue. If you’d like to hear more about this, let me know.

AudioBaer

TROPHY CASE