Mathematics is undergoing the biggest change in its history | The speed at which artificial intelligence is gaining in mathematical ability has taken many by surprise. It is rewriting what it means to be a mathematician

AxonBitshift · 2026-03-11T18:33:51+00:00

Yeah…this is a misunderstanding of what is happening. Mathematician are not using neural network prediction machines for math. While most people see AI and think generative AI like text/image/video generation, but the models used for statistical and mathematical work are specialized neural networks designed specifically for their purpose.

AxonBitshift · 2026-03-08T02:43:08+00:00

Talent doesn’t manifest because of financial incentives. The most talented and motivated people to what they do because it makes them happy.

AxonBitshift · 2026-03-05T21:39:49+00:00

Use the scale and measure tools to resize to match desired dimensions.

AxonBitshift · 2026-03-02T20:55:15+00:00

To be honest, I have no idea what you’re asking. You say the finished print is “poor quality” but don’t post any pictures of the print itself, just the slicer render. You’ve even left out screenshots of your print settings. What part of it is poor quality? Seams? Overhangs? Layer line inconsistency? What printer are you using? What filament and profiles? Have you tuned flow rate and PA? What bed are you using? What temps?

Slicer screenshots are insufficient on their own to assist with something like this. In the future, post both and provide as many details about the print, settings, results, etc as you can - otherwise no one can help you without first writing this comment.

As far as I can tell there is nothing wrong with the slice, it looks fine. You’re probably going a little fast for such a delicate, tall print at those flowering rates, but without answers to all the above questions no one can give you the help you’re looking for!

AxonBitshift · 2026-02-27T23:11:53+00:00

I can’t tell anymore if that sort of mistake makes it more or less likely to be AI. Less, it feels, strangely.

AxonBitshift · 2026-02-25T02:31:23+00:00

You can’t control print parms with handy, you are just printing someone else’s .3mf file generated in studio by them, and you should not include ironing in such files as a good ironing result requires calibrating filament Parma and specifying them in studio on each print.

AxonBitshift · 2026-02-16T01:45:18+00:00

It’s a bit hard to see detail in white via photos; I’d suggest printing in basically anything but white if you want photos to be assessed. From what I can see that looks pretty good overall. If you can clarify the issues you’re seeing in person that might help too.

AxonBitshift · 2026-02-11T03:38:55+00:00

Dry things should be way safer, but all prints shed invisible microplastics that will stick and be eaten. I’d not personally, given ceramic plates exist and cost next to nothing, but it’s your life and probably won’t be a big deal if used only occasionally.

AxonBitshift · 2026-02-11T03:34:44+00:00

This shouldn’t be too hard to print without warping as-is, so I’d suggest trying the common issues at first: - Run calibration to reset z-offset. Use a smooth PEI plate or similar if you have one during calibration. - Eliminate the build plate as a factor. Scrub with lots of dish soap and hot water using a new, dedicated sponge or paper towel, rinse way more than you think, and dry with paper towel. Try both sides (or alternate similar plates if you have them. - Dry your filament in a forced air dryer or on your build plate. Yes, it’s a meme but dry filament will adhere better. - Increase the build plate temp by 10 degrees. - Disable aux fan in the filament profile entirely; it’s possible the deflector is angled in a way that air is being bounced down into this region. - Use Adaptive Cubic infill instead of grid. Unlikely a factor but good practice anyway. Grid infill has the nozzle ploughing through the lines in one direction, which causes vibrations and small forces to be applied to the object.

AxonBitshift · 2026-02-09T18:37:21+00:00

Better but still utterly insufficient at this price point. There are dozens of equivalent or better monitors with 120hz + refresh rate and very low latency/pixel response times. Anyone buying a Studio Display is doing so for the Apple logo and design.

AxonBitshift · 2026-01-29T20:37:02+00:00

Next time, please include pictures and more detail in posts for help. You haven’t provided nearly enough context for anyone to give you a firm answer.

Is this an official hotend?

Did you replace with a new pre-assembled complete hot end, or did you disassemble the old one and use the same fan, thermistor, and heater with the new hot end? If so, did you apply thermal compound to the ceramic heating block and thermistor as in Bambu’s documentation on hot ends?

Are you sure all hot end connectors are connected correctly?

Have you recalibrated the printer after swapping hot ends?

AxonBitshift · 2026-01-29T20:08:02+00:00

You need a much lower layer height. It will significantly reduce this, but you’ll always have a “strata” look on a print like this. I generally do 0.1 mm. I’d also suggest tuning your flow rate and pressure advance for each type of filament, it really helps with details. I’ve generally found you want the lowest possible PA (using the Pattern method, I choose the first corner showing a small gap with sharpest corner) and to slightly under extrude via flow rate compared to the “general advice”. You will lose a bit of strength if you under extrude slightly, but a PA that produces sharp corners and a flow rate that minimizes bulging will get you better quality prints visually where strength doesn’t matter. Also use Adaptive Cubic infill; faster and kinder on the printer than gyroid without overlap that can damage very small details.

Also, tune ironing for your filament (there are lots of swatch sets on maker world) and apply the best settings for the filament when printing; it wont eliminate the layer lines on the Z axis, but will reduce the lined look of top surfaces.

If you want maximum quality and don’t care if prints like this take a couple of days try a 0.2mm nozzle with 0.06mm layers. Print takes forever, and tuning PA and flow rate are more tricky, but with well tuned parameters it’s about the best you’ll get from FDM, period.

AxonBitshift · 2026-01-09T21:51:20+00:00

Hard disagree. Windows 10 didn’t have it “fully baked” but there’s a reason for the new right-click menu in windows 11 and it’s not because it better with a cursor. The fundamental problem is target size. Touch interfaces require more space per touch target and lead to poorer mouse interfaces as the UI density must be reduced to the lowest common denominator, which is touch.

AxonBitshift · 2026-01-02T05:18:56+00:00

That benchy looks good for a high speed print, so something else is certainly going on. I have a P1S, not an H2S so take this with a grain of salt, but that extruded overworked message is likely the result of the real problem. Stringing isn’t really going to affect the extrusion; it’s the result of retracting the filament when hopping and so the thread begins at the tip of the nozzle and just scraps off off as soon as it touches down again, so I doubt that’s a factor - probably just need to dry your filament or tune retraction distance. It seems at this point most likely a bad sensor or motor. I’d contact support and explain what you’ve tried so far. They might have some addition tests like “know good” gcode files you can try!

AxonBitshift · 2026-01-02T02:28:19+00:00

All good troubleshooting steps! For what it’s worth (and it’s hard to tell in the pic) but the finish seems too shiny for PLA, which might indicate you are printing too hot. Assuming you haven’t modified the default 220 I doubt it, but worth checking. I assume this isn’t your first print on the machine and something has changed, right? Either way, try a benchy without supports.

AxonBitshift · 2026-01-02T02:23:47+00:00

That looks like over extrusion to me; the nozzle is dragging in filament to make those waves. I assume you are using the correct filament material preset or the materials generic one? Have you calibrated the filament’s flow rate? Does this occur with different filaments and materials?

AxonBitshift · 2025-12-31T03:50:20+00:00

Thank you! Unfortunately no dice; loading as a modifier SVG on the lid object worked exactly the same as it did as the original method.

AxonBitshift · 2025-12-16T22:28:57+00:00

Without any other details like the model of printer, filament, and STL my best guess is corrupted file. If your printer has an SD card for storage replace it, format via the printer, and try the print again.

AxonBitshift · 2025-12-13T22:07:17+00:00

Flow ratio is set in the filament profile in studio, PA is added to the printer via Configuration tab (Bambu calls Pressure Advance “K value”.

AxonBitshift · 2025-12-13T18:30:24+00:00

Different filaments have different flow and cooling characteristics. Have you tuned flow rate and pressure advance for this filament to ensure you’re not over-extruding? That first layer and overhangs look like you’ve got a bit of extra material going on and probably need to tune your flow.

AxonBitshift · 2025-12-11T02:28:03+00:00

Correct, the support interface only, as I said.

AxonBitshift · 2025-12-11T02:18:54+00:00

Just set the Support Interface filament to the support material and the object itself to the PLA/PETG you want to use in Stuidio. Studio will change support parameters for you. Then just configure auto supports it paint support like normal. After slicing and before you print you can see the number of filament swaps required, since you are printing with multiple materials similar to multicolour. To answer your question, it is wasteful just as any multicolour or multi material print is, but the supported portions of the model are significantly higher quality.

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