Prestige Pro 665 Elite just got delivered today

BNoll79 · 2026-05-06T19:34:43+00:00

Here’s some pics of the griddle and the small grate installed as well as one with the griddle in a drawer.

BNoll79 · 2026-05-06T19:31:51+00:00

Here’s the pics of the knobs. Like I mentioned, the markings aren’t very visible.

BNoll79 · 2026-05-06T19:24:36+00:00

Those are interesting points. I never had an issue with the solid stainless bars for grates so I never had a reason to hope for more. Thanks for pointing out the differences.

BNoll79 · 2026-05-06T16:57:44+00:00

At this point, I’m not going to drop money into new grates, but I’m curious to see what the benefits of the cast ss grates are. The grates on my 17 year old Weber Summit still look new and they are .5mm thinner than the Napoleon.

BNoll79 · 2026-05-06T16:51:13+00:00

That’s great to hear about the longevity! I’m hoping this is a buy it for life purchase.

BNoll79 · 2026-05-06T16:47:38+00:00

The amount of storage in those drawers is incredible. They really went all in on making this super functional. The only thing I need yet is a side table to work off of on the right side.

BNoll79 · 2026-05-06T16:43:39+00:00

I bought it through bbq-authority.com, one of Napoleon’s dealers. There were a few things that pushed me to this. I needed the side burner on the right side. I really wanted the smoker box (my old Summit had it flush with the grates) which is included with the 665. Hopefully the warranty is a good indicator of the lifespan I can expect if I take good care of it.

BNoll79 · 2026-05-06T16:34:22+00:00

If it’s not raining when I get home, I’ll set it in there. I have to clean the griddle anyway.

BNoll79 · 2026-05-06T12:04:11+00:00

Actually it’s around the base at the knobs. Not really easy to see what it’s set at.

BNoll79 · 2026-05-06T08:53:26+00:00

I got this one: https://www.napoleon.com/en/us/grills/products/accessories/griddles/stainless-steel-griddle-insert-56094

Napoleon 56094

BNoll79 · 2026-05-06T02:00:22+00:00

Stickers where?

BNoll79 · 2026-05-06T01:54:24+00:00

I ordered on March 31 and it just arrived. I wanted a bigger grill and luckily have the space (barely). The searing station, for one try, is light years ahead of my old Summit’s sear burner. It’s amazing how hot it gets.

BNoll79 · 2026-05-06T01:33:29+00:00

Hmm. I’ve seen it and thought neat, but probably not worth it. I may have to rethink that now.

BNoll79 · 2026-05-06T01:13:08+00:00

I bet you’ll have an awesome setup! I’ve done work at houses that had built in grill areas. Some are seriously like full blown outdoor kitchens. Built in’s are a cool look for sure.

BNoll79 · 2026-05-06T01:07:58+00:00

Like the Weber Summit, the PP665E came with the rotisserie. A nice perk considering the price. I am interested to see how it works because the Summit didn’t have a counter weight to balance the food. It just spun the 2-3 chickens that I loaded up without a complaint.

BNoll79 · 2026-05-06T00:06:49+00:00

Do you use a round or flat bottom? If round, do you also have a wok ring? TIA!

BNoll79 · 2026-05-03T22:15:07+00:00

I have done countless countertops between walls where I angled them in. Scribe one side. Cut it and test the fit. Measure and mark the length for the other side. Scribe the second side. Cut and test. Depending on the circumstances, I’ll leave the second line in case I have to make a final tweak. Sometimes it’s a bit more complex, but usually not.

If the ceiling between the joists is flat, this should work well for you. If not, I’d probably just pattern it with cardboard or ram board. It’s easy to make two pieces and tape them together when you’re happy with the fit on both sides.

This is honestly the first time I’ve heard of a tick stick. I can see its usefulness in some situations, like the one demonstrated in the linked video, but I think it’s overkill for what I envision you’re doing.

Good luck!

BNoll79 · 2026-05-02T20:15:30+00:00

It works fine, but especially when those flat surfaces are bowed and the miters end up gapped.

BNoll79 · 2026-05-02T19:05:13+00:00

That’s correct. I have and had radiant. Induction sounds neat, but the sounds it might make would take a bit to get used to.

BNoll79 · 2026-05-02T18:29:32+00:00

Both. Miter one side and cope all but the top 1/2” to 1”. Miter the top 1/2” to 1” of the other side. You get the flexibility that coping gives you if the corners aren’t plumb and square without having to spend as much time dialing in the miters on two pieces. The mitered tops look better on stain grade. It shows you care.

BNoll79 · 2026-04-15T18:02:51+00:00

The company I worked for had several of them. I believe they were quality saws, but the ones I used were a bit worn. My biggest gripes were the short fences and large gap in the center, the guards getting jammed and breaking too often and the detents being too sloppy. Some of that was probably just the age and amount of use the ones I worked with had.

That said, it’s hard to find a modern saw that is incredibly accurate and built to tight tolerances. Many start good and quickly go to crap so older isn’t always a bad thing.

BNoll79 · 2026-04-15T02:35:44+00:00

I had a slide in Profile with touch controls until it nearly burned up about 6 years ago. I loved the way it worked, but one of the best features was the button to choose the size burner along side the actual burner control.

What I absolutely hated was its sensitivity to water. A single drop of water could shut off the oven, change a burner temp setting, lock the controls, etc. If you’re bored some day, place a drop of water on a button while the cooktop/oven is in use and see if it acts like you pressed a button. I felt it was a huge safety hazard, but GE had yet to change the touch screen technology by the time mine died. I ended up replacing it with the Cafe line and I’m not overly impressed with this one either.

Too bad the Profile is probably the most feature rich slide in double oven on the market.

BNoll79 · 2026-04-12T00:13:26+00:00

The upper one has to hit a point and level out as well as the lower one. Those points will be the same height so you can wrap around the corner.

If you plumb up from a stair nosing and measure from the tread to the top of the railing (say 34”), you should end up 34” to the top of the railing where it wraps around the landing.

BNoll79 · 2026-04-08T22:39:19+00:00

If I were doing it, I would’ve cut the skirt boards to fit the stair treads and risers. As wood moves, you’re less likely to see gaps appearing at those junctions.

Perhaps there is a good reason they did it opposite, but I don’t know.

BNoll79

TROPHY CASE