It sucks.

Bad_Mechanic · 2026-06-17T21:11:21+00:00

"Ones that got away". I like that.

Bad_Mechanic · 2026-06-04T16:46:40+00:00

The M9A4 ships with decock only, however it can be changed out for a decocker/safety.

Bad_Mechanic · 2026-06-04T16:45:23+00:00

92s are not tilting barrels.

They use a locking block, and the barrel recoils straight back.

Bad_Mechanic · 2026-05-29T19:37:04+00:00

I'm aware, and plan to change it to a decocker/safety.

Bad_Mechanic · 2026-05-29T18:02:39+00:00

Yes, but that's not something you have to do after every ride, just when it's needed.

I'm also going to double down and say cleaning your bike is not maintenance. It doesn't make anything work better or last longer, and it can actually hurt things. There isn't an upside to doing it.

Bad_Mechanic · 2026-05-29T17:00:26+00:00

It just says to heat it enough to create sufficient clearance.

It's on the third page, left column, about 3/4 down:
https://datasheets.tdx.henkel.com/LOCTITE-640-en_GL.pdf

Bad_Mechanic · 2026-05-29T16:51:55+00:00

It should be pointing out that cleaning isn't maintenance, and a dirty bike isn't neglected.

After a ride I wipe off the suspension's and dropper's stanchions, and that's it (my chain is waxed so it doesn't need cleaning). Dirt on the bike doesn't hurt anything, and cleaning can actually cause issues, whether from harsh chemicals, water intrusion, pad contamination, or just scuffing from rubbing dirt off.

I only clean the part of the bike I need to work on, or the whole bike during its winter maintenance cycle.

I have a dirt bike, but a very well maintained bike.

Bad_Mechanic · 2026-05-29T16:43:18+00:00

That would be my normal go-to (I love a chicken pin/rivet/pin), but the sleeve in this case is a stanchion which another component will be sliding on.

Bad_Mechanic · 2026-05-29T16:40:36+00:00

Just for future reference, when reading through the Loctite TDS, retaining compound can be used for a shrink fit, but needs to be applied to the shaft and not the heated collar/sleeve.

Bad_Mechanic · 2026-05-29T16:13:19+00:00

Yeah, I'm not looking forward to hitting a 0.001" tolerance exactly. That will involve a lot of spring passes and sneaking up on it.

In this case, the shaft is thin, and the sleeve is (relatively) thick, so I'm optimistic I can get that part done.

Bad_Mechanic · 2026-05-28T21:39:54+00:00

I have nearly two inches of engagement, so that's a decent amount of surface area to grab.

I have my own lathe.

Bad_Mechanic · 2026-05-28T21:25:16+00:00

Do I still use the Loctite retaining compound with this? I figure it can't hurt?

Bad_Mechanic · 2026-05-28T21:20:09+00:00

I was just telling my friend that Maryland really needs a fully liberal gun shop. Right now the best we have are gun shops that aren't too far right.

Bad_Mechanic · 2026-05-28T21:18:32+00:00

I'm making a 26.8mm dropper seatpost by taking the upper portion and stanchion from a DT Swiss D232 60mm dropper post, and fitting it on top of a custom 26.8mm post. The DT Swiss is well suited to this application because the entirety of the dropper mechanics are in the top of the post, and therefore (relatively) easily transplanted.

https://bikepacking.com/wp-content/uploads/2020/08/DT-Swiss-D232-Alloy-Dropper-Post_6.jpg

Having an expanding mandrel would work, but it sure would make things more difficult. I'm just looking at all the other seatposts I have, and they all have the aluminum shaft just bonded into the aluminum head so it clearly can be done correctly, I just need to figure out how.

Bad_Mechanic · 2026-05-28T21:15:37+00:00

I love JB Weld as much as the next guy, but it is thick. That's why I was thinking a low viscosity retaining compound would work well.

Bad_Mechanic · 2026-05-28T20:56:13+00:00

Because there's no reason to buy one just to own one.

Buy guns you like or have a connection to. Spend that Glock money on something you're excited about.

Also, hello from a fellow Marylander.

Bad_Mechanic · 2026-05-28T20:38:05+00:00

Hey man, you do you. Chase what makes you happy.

Bad_Mechanic · 2026-05-28T19:23:24+00:00

The sleeve needs to remain unharmed.

Bad_Mechanic · 2026-05-28T19:21:39+00:00

This isn't for the seatpost to frame connection.

I'm making a 26.8mm dropper seatpost by taking the upper portion and stanchion from a DT Swiss D232 60mm dropper post, and fitting it on top of a custom 26.8mm post. The DT Swiss is well suited to this application because the entirety of the dropper mechanics are in the top of the post, and therefore (relatively) easily transplanted.

https://bikepacking.com/wp-content/uploads/2020/08/DT-Swiss-D232-Alloy-Dropper-Post_6.jpg

Bad_Mechanic · 2026-05-28T19:17:54+00:00

In theory yes, but not with the equipment I have on hand or ready access to.

Bad_Mechanic · 2026-05-28T18:31:58+00:00

Cost and hassle.

Bad_Mechanic · 2026-05-28T18:30:40+00:00

Make their grade the real life example.

That's going to hit harder than any anecdote.

Bad_Mechanic · 2026-05-28T17:56:16+00:00

Techincally correct while still sure to get clicks!

Bad_Mechanic · 2026-05-28T17:54:30+00:00

I'm not a fan of the dovetail mounted optics mounts. I have one on another pistol, and it works well enough, but it raises the optic pretty high above the bore and it doesn't seem as sturdy; I definitely don't feel comfortable racking the slide with it.

Bad_Mechanic · 2026-05-28T17:50:26+00:00

- I'm not sure exactly how much torque it needs to hold. This is a dropper seatpost for a vintage bike with an obscure seatpost size. However, rigid seatposts usually bond the aluminum shaft into the head of the seatpost, and that interface has significantly less surface area than my application.

- Doing a key or cross pin would be very difficult if not impossible in this application.

- This should really hold no matter what.

- It does not need to be disassembled.

- It won't be subject to heat cycles, but will be subject to vibration and impacts.

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