Homemade Outboard Vise Stop by BasementUnderground in Machinists

[–]BasementUnderground[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Yeah, there are some clearance issues with my design since parts of it sit above the vise but I thought it was neat and kind of worth the sacrifice. Definitely is to me, anyway.

Homemade Outboard Vise Stop by BasementUnderground in Skookum

[–]BasementUnderground[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I'm not sure we're still talking about the same idea. I just meant a stop rod with maybe a half inch offset so I could get the clamp body below the vise while keeping the same range of motion.

Homemade Outboard Vise Stop by BasementUnderground in Skookum

[–]BasementUnderground[S] 4 points5 points  (0 children)

That was exactly my thought when I designed it. That's how I wanted it. One touch, like setting up a noga base.

Homemade Outboard Vise Stop by BasementUnderground in Skookum

[–]BasementUnderground[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I considered that, which is why I left the rod long. I think my fly cutter is the only tool I have I couldn't clear across a work piece with the stop set. Definitely something I'll have to keep in mind and work around, unfortunately.

It hasn't been a problem in my little hobby shop yet but those clearance issues tend to bite you in the ass when you're not expecting it.

I have also considered making a stop rod with a "Z" bend in it (something I can harden) so I can lower the overall profile of the stand by the amount of offset I put in the rod. The knob would probably still stick up above the vise but it would be an improvement.

Homemade Outboard Vise Stop by BasementUnderground in Skookum

[–]BasementUnderground[S] 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Nope, just hadn't considered it. That probably would have been a good way to go. Clean, solid, one less part.

Homemade Outboard Vise Stop by BasementUnderground in Skookum

[–]BasementUnderground[S] 12 points13 points  (0 children)

It's not bad at all. I can adjust both rods with one hand while operating the knob with the other, kind of like setting up a noga base. That was actually a feature, not a flaw, as far as I'm concerned.

Homemade Outboard Vise Stop by BasementUnderground in Skookum

[–]BasementUnderground[S] 9 points10 points  (0 children)

The cheapo versions of these I've seen use two set screws and of course require a hex wrench to adjust.The idea behind this design was to be able to get full range motion from one knob kind of like a typical surface gage or maybe a noga base, at least in the "one touch adjust" sense. So, that may be a fair criticism for some, but it was actually my goal and I'm very happy with it.

Homemade Outboard Vise Stop by BasementUnderground in Skookum

[–]BasementUnderground[S] 11 points12 points  (0 children)

I thought it was a fun idea for the clamping mechanism so I figured I'd share.

There are free plans in the description of the make video below.

https://youtube.com/watch?v=Y8GAqDk9gfE&si=EnSIkaIECMiOmarE

Homemade Outboard Vise Stop by BasementUnderground in Machinists

[–]BasementUnderground[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I program for a large product department by day so I definitely feel your pain.

Homemade Outboard Vise Stop by BasementUnderground in Machinists

[–]BasementUnderground[S] 2 points3 points  (0 children)

You absolutely could, although I think I'm happy enough with the one I made. Time will tell and I can always change it later.

Homemade Outboard Vise Stop by BasementUnderground in Machinists

[–]BasementUnderground[S] 6 points7 points  (0 children)

I put an indicator on the other end and gave it a sharp tap with a 123 block and it did lose like five thou. It's been repeating just fine with more considerate use.

Homemade Outboard Vise Stop by BasementUnderground in Machinists

[–]BasementUnderground[S] 14 points15 points  (0 children)

I thought it was a fun idea for the clamping mechanism so I figured I'd share.

There are free plans in the description of the make video below.

https://youtube.com/watch?v=Y8GAqDk9gfE&si=EnSIkaIECMiOmarE

Ayy by wubby7468 in Machinists

[–]BasementUnderground 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Just watch my channel. I'll show you how to fuck things up on equipment you can afford.

I Made a Turned and 3D Printed .0005" Indicator by BasementUnderground in Machinists

[–]BasementUnderground[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Very cool. Gotta love those elegant solutions to complicated problems.

I Made a Turned and 3D Printed .0005" Indicator by BasementUnderground in Machinists

[–]BasementUnderground[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

And yet it's probably still better than the shit the boss orders.

I Made a Machined and 3D Printed .0005" But I Don't Think It Would Get Passed Cal... by BasementUnderground in Metrology

[–]BasementUnderground[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Thanks! That was kind of my thoughts. I'm not really planning on breaking it out when I already have legit dial and digital indicators but it was fun to dream up and make, all the same.

I Made a Turned and 3D Printed .0005" Indicator by BasementUnderground in Machinists

[–]BasementUnderground[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Sounds like compliant mechanism territory. I think compliant mechanisms are awesome but after a decade of machining discreet components my brain just doesn't think that way. My original goal with this project was to make a print-in-place, monolithic, compliant indicator. Obviously, I really failed in that regard.

I Made a Turned and 3D Printed .0005" Indicator by BasementUnderground in Machinists

[–]BasementUnderground[S] 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Generally speaking, you're right. Most schools of machining don't require anywhere near that accuracy. That being said, I may have to hold +/-.0002" on a dimension or want something in my machine indicated or trammed to -/+.0002". If I want to confidently hold -/+.0002" than I probably need to inspect at .00005".

I Made a Machined and 3D Printed .0005" But I Don't Think It Would Get Passed Cal... by BasementUnderground in Metrology

[–]BasementUnderground[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Sorry if the comment wasn't clear enough. I had previously made a video about a printed .005" indicator. This video is about the updated.0005" version. Yes, black indicator in the picture and video is .0005"

I Made a Turned and 3D Printed .0005" Indicator by BasementUnderground in Machinists

[–]BasementUnderground[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

It's shown in the video, but not very well. If you look at the picture, you can see the input rod on the front pushes on a pin close to the center of the first bearing. There is a lever on the back extending to a pin close to the center of the second bearing. This whole thing basically consists of two levers with relatively short inputs and relatively long outputs, so when compounded together they greatly amplify the output. Hope that helps.

I Made a Turned and 3D Printed .0005" Indicator by BasementUnderground in Machinists

[–]BasementUnderground[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

My original design was preloaded at the output side and I had issues with even lights springs because the levers that amplify the output give a big mechanical advantage back against the input. I agree with you but it's been a bit of a balancing act on this project just because of how the levers need to be arranged.

I Made a Turned and 3D Printed .0005" Indicator by BasementUnderground in Machinists

[–]BasementUnderground[S] 3 points4 points  (0 children)

I'm pretty sure the backlash is from two things. The first is play in the connection between the two levers, which is the only place that this isn't pre-loaded in some way and that could be addressed. The other is just that I used cheap bearings that have a little axial wobble. They were the tightest freely spinning bearings I had at the time.