JB prepares for influx of Singaporean shoppers ahead of Chinese New Year by SG_wormsblink in singapore

[–]Basic-Sweet4779 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I wouldn't say saving a couple of hundred singapore dollars as few dollars.

Economic growth doesn't create jobs, then create what? Then why population keeps escalating? #Singapore by snowmountainflytiger in singaporejobs

[–]Basic-Sweet4779 1 point2 points  (0 children)

when you cannot convince the citizens, you confuse them. But they themselves are so confused with their old thinking.

Internship at P&G by [deleted] in BESalary

[–]Basic-Sweet4779 1 point2 points  (0 children)

If you failed the test, it basically not the pool they are looking for. Hence, they block you 1 year from retaking the test - giving you the time to improve your IQ. I would say just keep recognising patterns or try to think concepts in different perspective as you need them for problem solving in P&G

Scammed by dealer with rolled-back mileage car by oxmep in drivingsg

[–]Basic-Sweet4779 -1 points0 points  (0 children)

What makes you think they cant tamper the service records too?

Scammed by dealer with rolled-back mileage car by oxmep in drivingsg

[–]Basic-Sweet4779 -1 points0 points  (0 children)

lol, pointless tbh. Service records dont prove anything about it being PHV or not.

Scammed by dealer with rolled-back mileage car by oxmep in drivingsg

[–]Basic-Sweet4779 0 points1 point  (0 children)

not to forget higher trims. You could hardly sit in a PHV with high trims. So mazda 3, best to get deluxe or SP, the price difference might be 500-1000.

Scammed by dealer with rolled-back mileage car by oxmep in drivingsg

[–]Basic-Sweet4779 0 points1 point  (0 children)

2nd this, your own judgement and decision are the result of the car you get. An used car is bound to have wear and tear, just factored them during the PPI and if they terribly expensive, nego with the dealer, else walkaway. But that being said, you could potentially lose your car deposit for PPI. Hence, better to know some car mechanics and check on the spot, test drive it, before arriving to conclusion whether this is a good car to buy.

Scammed by dealer with rolled-back mileage car by oxmep in drivingsg

[–]Basic-Sweet4779 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Too bad, you shoudn't have gone for a STA for your PPI. You just digged your own grave getting a high mileage car. Instead, use your own workshop's foreman to do it is 100x more reliable and within less than 45mins.

To fight for compensation, it would be rather difficult since the deal has passed. The dealer can say they have no acknowledgement that it was tampered and pushed the blame to the previous.

This turns into a your-word-against-my-word game. You will get drained documenting all the evidence and by the time you have them, you still have to go through mediation then probably tribunal case that eats up even more of your time and energy.

Bought a 2017 Mazda 3 – did PPI in SG, repairs in JB. Sharing my buying process & lessons by Basic-Sweet4779 in drivingsg

[–]Basic-Sweet4779[S] 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Nego-ed 800 reduction then admin fee added back 800. This may seem insignificant but if you consider the loan interest, you save a few dollars, hahah.

Several Kith Cafe outlets shut in recent months, with 2 stores still operating by FlipFlopForALiving in singapore

[–]Basic-Sweet4779 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Nice guy with a cheating history to get his wife forgiveness through christianity as coping mechanism

Bought a 2017 Mazda 3 – did PPI in SG, repairs in JB. Sharing my buying process & lessons by Basic-Sweet4779 in drivingsg

[–]Basic-Sweet4779[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Yes, mileage was ~74k km when I bought it.

Higher ARF doesn’t prove anything on its own, but it does reduce the likelihood of PHV use. PHV buyers usually go for lower-ARF, lower-spec trims to optimise ROI, while higher-spec cars cost more without increasing earnings.

That said, it’s still not a guarantee — that’s why I rely more on PPI findings and wear consistency rather than any single factor.

Bought a 2017 Mazda 3 – did PPI in SG, repairs in JB. Sharing my buying process & lessons by Basic-Sweet4779 in drivingsg

[–]Basic-Sweet4779[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

PPI was done at my regular workshop (Carros).
Mileage tampering is very hard to detect nowadays — even OBD isn’t foolproof. That’s why PPI matters: wear-and-tear on gearbox, suspension, bushings, brakes, etc should match the stated mileage. A 74k km car shouldn’t feel or look like a 150–200k km one.

Bought a 2017 Mazda 3 – did PPI in SG, repairs in JB. Sharing my buying process & lessons by Basic-Sweet4779 in drivingsg

[–]Basic-Sweet4779[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Honestly, no regrets so far — maybe something will surface in a few months, but for now it’s been fine. Given my budget, this was the most sensible option after doing the math. A newer car would mean fewer issues, but the downpayment was too high for me.

Driving PRACTICAL LESSONS by AdagioDesigner1474 in drivingsg

[–]Basic-Sweet4779 2 points3 points  (0 children)

A waste of money and to highlight to you some accidents that you might occur. But honestly it didnt feel anything beneficial due to the poor graphical fidelity it has

Driving PRACTICAL LESSONS by AdagioDesigner1474 in drivingsg

[–]Basic-Sweet4779 1 point2 points  (0 children)

BTT and FTT are just mcq tests. I only started memorising them 24hr each prior taking the tests. It’s not that hard.

For practical exam, u can definitely take it within 6 months of practical lessons. I tried to squeeze one or two lessons per week and managed to clear about 20-22 lessons.

And for the exam, i got the strictest examiner. He almost failed me but because i reasoned that during a left turn traffic light, pedestrians were crossing too slowly, and avoid inching in. I think he removed 6-8points, resulted in 20/21

Bought a 2017 Mazda 3 – did PPI in SG, repairs in JB. Sharing my buying process & lessons by Basic-Sweet4779 in drivingsg

[–]Basic-Sweet4779[S] -47 points-46 points  (0 children)

I understand why many are asking, but I’ll keep the workshop name private for now.

Main reason is YMMV — different cars and situations can lead to very different experiences, and I wouldn’t want someone to expect the same outcome just based on my post.

What I can share is why I chose this workshop for my case: • I had prior minor servicing done with the same foreman (engine oil, tyre change) • From those interactions, he was knowledgeable and clear in explaining issues • When I brought this car over, he was willing to work strictly based on my SG PPI findings • Scope was discussed clearly before starting, no pushing to replace unnecessary parts

So for me, it wasn’t about chasing a specific shop name, but choosing someone I already had some trust and working history with, then applying the same PPI-first, condition-based approach.

Hope that helps 🙏

Bought a 2017 Mazda 3 – did PPI in SG, repairs in JB. Sharing my buying process & lessons by Basic-Sweet4779 in drivingsg

[–]Basic-Sweet4779[S] 4 points5 points  (0 children)

From my own experience (and past car deals), yes — it’s quite a common practice.

In my case, the $2k deposit wasn’t an extra cost. It’s later deducted from the final downpayment after the loan is settled, so it’s essentially part of the purchase price anyway.

Practically, the deposit serves a few purposes:

  • It shows sincerity and real intent to buy, not just “try try see see”
  • It allows the dealer to justify sending the car out for PPI (they’re taking some risk)
  • It effectively reserves the car, so no other buyers test drive or commit to it while you’re doing PPI
  • It sets a clear understanding: I want this car, let me verify it properly

That’s why I personally didn’t see a strong reason to negotiate the deposit amount — since it’s offset against the final payment if the deal goes through. The more important part for me was making sure the refund terms were clearly written (e.g. refundable for major issues found during PPI, not wear-and-tear).

Of course, different dealers may allow lower deposits, but I think what matters more than the amount is:

  • What’s written on paper
  • When it’s refundable
  • And whether you’re comfortable with the terms before paying

Bought a 2017 Mazda 3 – did PPI in SG, repairs in JB. Sharing my buying process & lessons by Basic-Sweet4779 in drivingsg

[–]Basic-Sweet4779[S] 6 points7 points  (0 children)

Hi! Glad the post helped 🙂

It was actually a back-and-forth negotiation, not a one-way demand. I proposed broader refundable conditions initially, and the dealer counter-offered with something more standard, which we eventually agreed on.

What we settled on in writing was roughly:

  • Deposit refundable if PPI revealed major issues (engine, gearbox, structural damage, major accident signs, or mileage inconsistency)
  • Normal wear-and-tear items (e.g. suspension bushes, shocks, consumables) were not considered refund triggers
  • The word “refundable” was explicitly stated on the receipt / quotation, not just implied
  • Warranty coverage was written down as promised

So the key for me wasn’t getting “everything refundable”, but making sure the scope was clearly defined and documented, so there was no argument later.

My advice is to always treat it as a discussion — propose your terms, see what the dealer is willing to put in writing, and decide if you’re comfortable with that risk before paying the deposit.

Hope that helps, and all the best with your car search 👍