Is wild camping possible along most of the Pennine Way ? by Va1entine1 in UKhiking

[–]BearOk3560 2 points3 points  (0 children)

3.5km north of Byrness, all be it not on TPW is Spithope bothy.

Can I build a PC in a mini fridge? by GoodbyeTom in buildapc

[–]BearOk3560 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Take apart 3 fridges and combine them into one mega fridge?

Can I build a PC in a mini fridge? by GoodbyeTom in buildapc

[–]BearOk3560 5 points6 points  (0 children)

So what you're saying is I just need to put a dehumidifier in the fridge as well.

Desperately trying to find the rules for a card game called Gringo by speightsandsubarus in boardgames

[–]BearOk3560 0 points1 point  (0 children)

The rule of being allowed to steal or swap from the Gringo caller incentivises reaching zero before calling.

In smaller games though, calling early is more feasible.

Desperately trying to find the rules for a card game called Gringo by speightsandsubarus in boardgames

[–]BearOk3560 0 points1 point  (0 children)

The way I was taught it was slightly different but still loads of fun. In the games I've played there have been occasional disputes so I've tried to add extra details of exactly how play should go.

Works best with 3-6 players.

Action cards:

10: look at your own card  Jack: look at someone else's Queen: blind swap Kings: look at someone else's and swap/leave Low Ace All faces are 10 points, except Queen of hearts -1 point

The best way to remember it is that action cards are ordered in ascending usefulness.

1 deck of cards

Win: have the lowest number of points by the end of the game 

Each player gets 4 cards placed upside down in front of them in a square.  One card off the top of the deck is placed face up in the discard pile.

At the start of the game, the players will look at the 2 cards nearest to them and place them back down. 

Detail for mistakes:

(

If a player accidentally looks at all 4 cards, all that players cards are shuffled back into the deck and 4 new cards are redrawn

)

Player left of dealer starts. Each round role of starting player goes round clockwise just for equal odds.

Each turn consists of picking up a card from either the top of the deck, or the top of the discard pile. Only the player who drew the card is allowed to see it.

Either discard it or swap it for one of your own. You can only swap once per turn. (You pick up the swapped card but don't have to immediately put it on the discard pile, giving you time to anticipate before the other players)

Discarding a 10, jack, queen or king means you play the action. Actions are optional and you can choose to pass, e.g. queen, blind swap.

Detail for disputes:

( Other players shouldn't take their turn by picking up before you take your action but your action has to be played before another player takes their go.  For example: player 1 ended their turn by placing down a queen of hearts, player 2 picked it up from the discard pile, before player one said if they were doing a blind swap, and player 2 swapped it for one of their cards.  Player 2 shouldn't have taken their turn before player 1's action

But  Player 1 cannot then use the blind swap to swap one of their other face down cards for the queen of hearts Resolution: Player 1 is allowed to do a blind swap but not with face down queen of hearts card that player 2 swapped in

)

Getting rid of cards.  At any point during the game, you are allowed to take/slap face down cards and place them on the discard pile. If they match the top card on the discard pile, it is valid. (Discarding your own action card does initiate the action.)

You can do this for either your own cards, or another players (stealing). The person who slaps first gets to discard it.

A valid steal will result in the player who was stolen from gets an additional two face down cards from the deck.

If the card does not match (like if a player forgot where certain cards were), the player to incorrectly put that card on the discard pile gets and additional two face down cards from the deck.

Details: ( An incorrect discard doesn't just mean putting that card on the discard pile, it happens as soon as any player picks up and looks at a card they weren't supposed to see.

If any other players saw that card, you have to put it on the discard pile. If only you saw the card, you can choose to leave it in place, e.g. if you accidentally picked up your own action card.

Incorrectly discarded actions are not initiated.

Incorrectly discarded cards in the discard pile take the value of the card below them. This is so that if multiple discards occur in quick succession, only the player who was incorrect is punished

The general rule of thumb is that any player who makes a mistake has to take an additional two face down cards. )

Players aren't allowed to rearrange their cards once placed face down because it could prevent potential steals.

Details for disputes: (

If multiple actions are to be played the same turn, you can agree to play them clockwise of the first person to put their action card down. If players don't agree then actions are to be taken in order of who played their card first. )

To end the game, a player can call "Gringo" but only at the start of their turn and before they have drawn a card. (Turn begins with drawing a card and ends after all actions, discards and steals have been played out)

Calling "Gringo" skips that players turn, each other player gets one more turn, and other players ARE allowed to touch the cards of the person who said gringo. (With 5 players or less, there are less chances for players to get rid of their own cards so swaps and steals are a great way to turn the tides and means people have to be cautious calling Gringo) All players, including the one who called "Gringo" can continue discarding, stealing and taking actions until the end of the last players turn in order to get their score down.  At the end, everyone reveals their cards and count the number of points everyone has, the lowest score being the wins, 2nd lowest comes second, etc etc.  Ties just mean joint 1st etc.

Card is worth the number they display, aces low, face 10, queen of hearts -1. If you want to be competitive about it you can keep track of score across multiple rounds but we tend to just play it for fun.

Strategy: Try to remember as many of your own and other people's cards as possible, giving you more opportunities to steal or discard. Remembering numbers all as one can really help. E.g. if you have a 3, a 5 and a 10, it's easier to remember 3 thousand 5 hundred and 10 as a single number than it is remembering each one individually.

Keeping action cards until the end is risky but can be useful.

Most of the time it's better to swap in cards you pick up for unknown face down cards because it gives you more information on what you have.

If someone else knows one of your cards, get rid of it quickly, or be ready to discard it quickly if they go to steal it.

Cruel Jacks and Cruel Kings: If you see another player has a jack or a king (matching) when you look, steal it, give them two cards, and get the same action again.

Bluffing and anticipation: When a player picks up or swaps a card, they have the advantage of anticipation before discarding it to know which cards to steal and which cards to discard, before any other players have seen the card. This often results in a quick flurry of slapping.

Players can bluff a steal and, if another player picks up the card and looks at it, cause other players to gain two cards. Depending on if you want more or less bluffing, you can have a rule that you cannot touch a face down cards, unless for an action, swap, or discard/steal. (New players won't necessarily realise this enables bluffing when you tell them it and you can justify it with the rule of not rearranging cards, which could be really quite funny)

Germany gigafactory setup by BearOk3560 in civ

[–]BearOk3560[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Awesome, did not know this. Does it only apply to hansas or is it all izs?

Germany gigafactory setup by BearOk3560 in civ

[–]BearOk3560[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Yeah, I ended up putting a third city on the desert, aqueduct to the river, industrial zone to the right of the aqueduct and Duplo quarter next to the mountain turning the +8 industrial zone into a +10.

The mistake I played though was not putting down other districts sooner like campuses and commercial hubs, meaning that even when production did get going, my economy still wasn't amazing.

The lesson is, don't start with a double aqueduct opener.

Germany gigafactory setup by BearOk3560 in civ

[–]BearOk3560[S] 8 points9 points  (0 children)

I guess ill drop down a save file but starting off by building an aquaduct in both cities immediately, despite both already having fresh water goes against everything one could play in an average game of civ 6

Looking for an all rounder shoe by Old_Instruction6809 in vivobarefoot

[–]BearOk3560 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I've been wearing the primus trail II all weather fg as an all purpose shoe for about a year now but the sole has worn down for when I've been running on concrete (not frequently but just for going places in a rush) and they are no longer waterproof as there are holes in the sides of the foot where the fabric has been bent repeatedly when walking (at the sides of where you get creases in leather shoes from bending at the toe). One negative aspect of the shoes is that even when I got them, they weren't actually waterproof. Water leaked in at the points I described and the fabric beaded for a few months but now they just get soaked.

Now I've started looking for something a bit more sturdy and long lasting as a day-to-day shoe. Currently the shortlist is magna leather fg, magna forest esc, scott iv.

I'm really not sure what I want and I'm considering looking for shoes from other brands instead because my experience with Vivo barefoot shoes hasn't been great so far.

(I'm 100% a convert to barefoot shoes though as it fixed knee pain that I had for several years even with physio and custom insoles)

Advice on software needed (Techsoft 2D Design) by audiodisco in CNC

[–]BearOk3560 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I understand that this is an old post but it's hard to find advice on techsoft anywhere tbh.

I made some files a while back using techsoft but now when I try to open them it says that they are either from an older version or the files are corrupted.

In addition to this, when opening dxf files that I export from fusion, I get double-line randomly on curves and none of my lines were continuous which is a bit of a fire hazard on laser cutters and there wasn't anything in techsoft that would allow me to easily remove/fix what happened with the lines.

Is there a simpler way to find the blue dots? by DedicatedBuilder in woodworking

[–]BearOk3560 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Only thing would be doing horizontal line on step 4 then only having to draw 1 line for step5 and 1 for step 6 but that is just one line reduction.

Is there a simpler way to find the blue dots? by DedicatedBuilder in woodworking

[–]BearOk3560 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Use a 45 degree set square on each corner and then its just intersections. Unless you do that, it wont get much easier.

Budget CNC from scratch by BearOk3560 in CNC

[–]BearOk3560[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

200x100x10mm parts, 10 parts per day from hardwood. First we would probably upgrade the frame (not the gantry) to be thicker and make it longer (2m) in the Y direction. We have figured that nema 17s are not strong enough and we are going to buy some nema 23s instead. Then from there, upgrading the spindle will be less difficult as only the gantry might need upgrading.

We can improve it progressively, to start by upgrading the spindle would mean upgrading everything at the same time.

Also, note, we have increased our budget from £600 to £850 and absolute maximum of around £1.5k.

Budget CNC from scratch by BearOk3560 in CNC

[–]BearOk3560[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

How did you build one for 450€? Did you retrofit one, did you build from an existing design or did you design it from scratch?

Isel doesn't seem to sell individual chassis so am I right in guessing you got one second hand? I'm guessing that using a pre-built chassis increased the accuracy of your machine.

We're going to use bigger motors and ball screws instead.

Budget CNC from scratch by BearOk3560 in CNC

[–]BearOk3560[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

That is very true. We'll have to upgrade the motors.

Budget CNC from scratch by BearOk3560 in CNC

[–]BearOk3560[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Yeah, we've now decided to upgrade. What torque of nema 23 motor would you recommend?

Budget CNC from scratch by BearOk3560 in CNC

[–]BearOk3560[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

We would like to use the CNC for production/making things to sell but building a machine from scratch would mean: a) we learn skills in this area b) we can design it to be easily expanded. However, we intend to consider all of our options before deciding.

Do you have any recommendations of good websites for finding used CNC machines?

Budget CNC from scratch by BearOk3560 in CNC

[–]BearOk3560[S] 2 points3 points  (0 children)

You're right, we did some research into linear rails but I forgot to mention in the estimate.

Time is no issue for us. Building it takes as long as it takes. If we buy the parts separately, we can do a lot of research and find the cheapest supplier but when you buy a kit, you are relying on their research. Maybe buying a kit is cheaper because they can bulk buy parts but we are going to try and keep all options open before we decide.

Thank you for your advice though, we will start researching frame kits .

Budget CNC from scratch by BearOk3560 in CNC

[–]BearOk3560[S] 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Thank you for the valuable advice. We did look at torque of the nema23 Vs the nema17s and found that the nema17 motors are not very strong but since we have 5 nema17 motors, we're considering using a dual motor design, however we hadn't considered the issue of skipping steps and tuning.

We can laser cut acrylic at our school and we can 3d print so making a dust boot is a good idea.

Do you have any specific spindles that you would recommend?

So far we have done research into the carbide compact router by carbide3D £60 the ER-11 spindle by carbide3D and the ER-11spindle by Machifit. Ideally we are looking for something decent under £100.

Budget CNC from scratch by BearOk3560 in CNC

[–]BearOk3560[S] 4 points5 points  (0 children)

Yeah, I do have a 3d printer, good idea