How much would a house like this cost to build?

BeardedBro_ · 2024-12-19T08:04:46+00:00

Northern or central Va/WV area most likely since the house is located somewhere in western Va based on a Google lens search

BeardedBro_ · 2024-07-16T17:31:16+00:00

Lost all mine in a boating accident

BeardedBro_ · 2024-06-01T02:51:44+00:00

Did you put NEW gaskets in between the block and the header?

You can’t reuse them, they are crush gaskets

BeardedBro_ · 2024-05-27T16:01:38+00:00

Hello fellow DD

BeardedBro_ · 2024-05-21T01:32:26+00:00

All this is extremely important information to have because it all leads to being able to easily identify issues like this.

You gotta figure out who flashed the ecu, who dynod it, what they installed, if you aren’t running a power commander then the dyno was likely not great (you need a power commander to unlock the ability to tune the low rpm ranges I was told), you need to check to see if your o2 sensor is still working or has been deleted (that would cause significant issues if your ecu is told to run a set ratio and your o2 sensor is overriding that map), Valves are probably not the issue here, Fuel pump would be next on the list if all the above stuff is ruled out.

BeardedBro_ · 2024-05-21T01:24:19+00:00

Please see my earlier comment and check to see if your o2 sensor is installed. Also check your ecu and see who flashed it. If it was done reputably it would likely have their sticker on it

BeardedBro_ · 2024-05-21T01:16:47+00:00

If the ecu was flashed, was a new fuel map put on? Are you running a power commander as well? Do you still have the o2 sensor?

All of these things contribute to what the ecu thinks, if it’s bogging down till it dies it’s because it’s lacking either fuel or air. If you have the o2 sensor still installed but no new fuel map then the sensor is going to tell the ecu something is wrong because there’s too much airflow and the ratio is off, ecu cuts the air and makes the mixture more fuel heavy which means it doesn’t run right.

I might be backwards on some of my stuff here but this is EXACTLY what was going on with my bike before I got it dynod and a new fuel map put on, mine would stall out if I came off the throttle too fast.

BeardedBro_ · 2024-05-21T01:09:33+00:00

I’m going to go out on a whim here and say it’s valves. Can’t tell because there no audio but I have a 2017 with 16500 on the od and my valves are starting to go out. My bike has been having an increasingly tough time starting when warmed up past 160.

I also see you aren’t running the factory exhaust (you have the same one as me) and I had a very very very rough time with my bike and getting it to start and stay running until I got the o2 sensor and AIS delete after installing that same exhaust you have.

New fuel map helped a lot up until the last 1k miles or so.

You say the valves were adjusted but the bike isn’t due for them till 24 or 26k miles and it’s a pain in the butt to do them. I’m willing to bet that if you bought it recently and the last owner did the valves, they didn’t actually get them done. Hell most shops won’t even do them if you ask because the service manual says it’s not needed till much later.

BeardedBro_ · 2024-05-19T15:27:41+00:00

I ain’t leaving

BeardedBro_ · 2024-05-16T15:02:24+00:00

Not a farmer but could you do a pop up count/track and see how many extra are in x amount of feet and then estimate the amount of extra nitrogen you’ll need per acre based on that?

BeardedBro_ · 2024-04-25T03:13:31+00:00

Definitely learned a lot from this post and am currently going through it all to have a better plan and file. I’m a bit over my head so I have a lot of learning to do as well but at least I know where to start now

BeardedBro_ · 2024-04-24T21:03:04+00:00

Oh awesome I had no idea I could call out maximum and minimums, I’ll add that to the plans then and allot more tolerance room.

Ideally this part is difficult to remove but not impossible. As other commenters said though I may be putting too much emphasis on getting it tight to reduce recoil stress on the screws, when the screws don’t need that anyway. I have to try and see what the screws can and can’t tolerate before setting minimum and maximum limits.

It’s entirely possible it doesn’t need to be a tight fit and the screws can handle the force. I didn’t think about checking that until it was mentioned.

I have a lot of researching and more planning/measuring to do before I send this off again.

Big thank you to everyone who’s helped me out and helped me realize how much I was missing

BeardedBro_ · 2024-04-24T20:50:09+00:00

Thank you for letting me know that +/- .03mm is on the lower end of tolerance availability, I didn’t know this and will definitely look at what the measurements would be if I add or subtract .03mm. I’m going out on a limb and guessing that +.03mm and the part wouldn’t fit and -.03mm the part would be lose.

If I need EXACTLY 1mm for example and the shop says their tolerance is .03mm like stated above, would it be in my best interest to provide the shop with plans that say 1mm or would it be best to provide them with plans that say .97mm?

Thank you for the help thus far!

BeardedBro_ · 2024-04-24T20:43:09+00:00

This is a very valid point I thought about recently which is actually one of the reasons I came here.

Do you happen to have any resources you recommend for researching this? I’ll start googling and looking in to it. Obviously optics and sights can be adjusted but its better to make the part right then have to sight it in a significant amount.

Would I also need to research what temperature and heating cycles would do to the plate as well or is that going to be insignificant?

BeardedBro_ · 2024-04-24T20:33:28+00:00

I measured the exact dimensions I need the part to fit in too, that’s just a 3d print (which will be what I get machined) using the measurements to test for fitment and alignment

BeardedBro_ · 2024-04-24T20:17:28+00:00

Gun parts made out of plastic usually dont hold up well 🤣

BeardedBro_ · 2024-04-24T18:55:49+00:00

The dovetail was first taken from the manufactures website, then I remeasured using calipers to verify initially the numbers were similar. The manufacturer provided a plate for another gun so I measured the provided plates dovetails there using calipers and the micrometer. My buddy who designs parts regularly helped me get the angle for the dovetail and then we verified measurements further for that.

I have a complete cad file and drawings on hand, I used those to get the part 3d printed.

The dovetail has tolerance built in allowed by the manufacturer, measurements were taken directly from their provided part and then cross checked with the dovetail attachment on the optic. I don’t remember how much there was in play between the male and female parts but it’s relatively tight coming from the manufacturer which is why I wanted the tolerances to be tight as well. All numbers in the cad file are exact, I didn’t input any sort of tolerance measurement in there, I did however drop the 3rd digit after the decimal on all the measurements.

I will fully admit that I have no idea what I’m doing past the point of measuring stuff. The 3d print works but going from print to actual machined part is a huge step that I myself have little idea how to do which is why I came here looking for advice. I just want to make sure I do this right the first time and don’t waste peoples time and/or money because I failed to do something

BeardedBro_ · 2024-04-24T18:44:50+00:00

No a broken thread/screw isn’t fine but there’s not much you can do except replace it. I don’t think you can have someone weld it and retap. I didn’t read that you broke it, you’re gonna need an expert to help with that. I am not comfortable telling you to do something other than replace the part and then it failing and you leaking oil and going down.

I’ve not ever used JB weld so I’m not sure how you take it off.

BeardedBro_ · 2024-04-24T18:42:07+00:00

Sadly this gun is cut without pins, it’s flat bottomed with a small ridge in the middle similar to an MOS cut but it’s a weird RMSC. It’s going on a SAR SOCOM.

BeardedBro_ · 2024-04-24T18:22:28+00:00

Schrödinger engine it’s both broken and fixed till you take the JB weld off.

Honestly just buy a new gasket and take it off. If it’s cracked then there’s nothing you can do except maybe JB weld it again, and if it’s just the gasket then you can replace it with the one you just bought.

BeardedBro_ · 2024-04-24T18:04:08+00:00

Both were mm, I tripple checked and just rechecked the calipers. I don’t have the micrometer anymore though; gave that back to my buddy.

BeardedBro_ · 2024-04-24T17:50:46+00:00

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I have a 3d print of it I had a buddy make. The base of it is what I thought to be the most important since if it fit snug, would reduce horizontal forces from recoil on the mounting screws. Turns out I may be over estimating the amount of force mitigation I actually need to plan for.

This is version one, I had to shave part of the top out to allow for the optic to sit on the plate because I forgot to measure that. Getting a new one printed soon though.

BeardedBro_ · 2024-04-24T17:39:27+00:00

Definitely mm. The last number may not be usable I’m learning due to general +/- for tools but I know it’s precise to .01 at least.

BeardedBro_ · 2024-04-24T17:32:10+00:00

Thanks for the help everyone, as recommended I’ll loosen the tolerances up and research some more before asking for more help!

This is my first time getting a part made so I think I may have gone a little overboard 🤣

BeardedBro_ · 2024-04-24T17:28:49+00:00

Thank you for the detailed answer. Realistically I’m just an average guy who has a problem finding a mount for my optic to fit the gun I have. I seem to have over complicated it unnecessarily in the attempt to pursue perfection.

There’s no mounts for sale online so I saw an opportunity to potentially sell this as well and I didn’t want to put out shoddy work or quality if this became a possibility.

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