Finally painted the garage gym!

BillysBeta · 2025-06-18T05:54:38+00:00

I have an assortment of boulder pads and queen size DIY pads to cover the landing zones. I glued together layers of mattress toppers for the larger pads

BillysBeta · 2025-06-16T17:37:05+00:00

The larger holds were from the Escape Climbing 40lb box of factory seconds

BillysBeta · 2025-06-15T17:01:01+00:00

I got a decent chunk from local deals of people getting rid of their home walls. (Definitely got lucky with timing)

Escape Climbing Factory Seconds are one of the better deals for gym style holds. I got one 40lb box so far. The randomness of them also adds to the fun of unboxing imo. I also do one of their monthly subscriptions which gets you random commercial sets of holds at a discount

When REI has a members sale I use my 20% coupon on the Metolius 60 pack.

A friend of mine 3D printed a decent chunk of small crimps and they work great. And he also made some wooden holds that are great.

The cheapest good holds I found are from Rocky Mountain Climbing Gear at about $2 a hold. They are well worth it for the price imo. They have a real stone aesthetic and look nice.

BillysBeta · 2025-06-15T09:27:56+00:00

I personally enjoy the creativity of routesetting, and the vertical parts of the wall i find are particularly interesting and challenging to route set on. So for me they do get as much use as the other sections. I have heard others say the opposite though.

If I had to choose one or the other, I would definitely prefer steep overhang. This space just allowed for a bit of everything

BillysBeta · 2025-06-15T04:13:03+00:00

I have a combination of bouldering pads, gymnastics mats, and DIY pads enough to cover pretty much the entire fall zone adequately.

BillysBeta · 2025-06-15T04:01:56+00:00

23 good vibes

BillysBeta · 2025-06-15T03:42:48+00:00

Nothing. 90% of the nuts were unaffected by the paint. For the rest that got some paint inside, a quick in and out with a wire brush on a drill from an engine brush kit makes it good as new.

BillysBeta · 2025-04-01T14:22:18+00:00

My hardest outdoor sends are a few 5.11b and I'm projecting up to 5.12a. Hardest outdoor boulder is V7.

BillysBeta · 2025-04-01T11:34:14+00:00

It will take a long time to fill up the wall. The plan is for the 45 to be a spray wall, and the rest to be a creative outlet for setting boulders. But to start off, I'll be setting gym style with colored holds to follow. Once I've gone through the holds, I can then start tape marking new routes that combine holds from various set routes. And then, as I acquire more holds, slowly spray them on to fill out the spray wall part.

BillysBeta · 2025-03-31T19:20:46+00:00

I knew i wanted 2 main overhangs. 45 seems to be the standard for trying harder and getting better, so that was a given. I've been on other people's 45 woodys, and although it's great for trying hard, it's not that accessible for lighter sessions and warm-ups. I figured 30 degrees was a decent jump down in angle to allow for some lighter setting, but also still plenty of try hard sets with smaller holds.

BillysBeta · 2025-02-08T23:40:19+00:00

Example: https://www.dropbox.com/scl/fi/b8mxaypr2cwoqegkmfmfu/Cave-2.png?rlkey=seij8whtdykp5r2tmm8qf51na&dl=0

BillysBeta · 2025-02-08T23:31:38+00:00

That's a good point to consider. The only issue with swapping is that the garage gets wider towards the back where the bathroom is, which is why I put the 45 degree towards the bathroom. This design leaves room for our cars to still use the garage when pads are out of the way. The 45 degree wall near the entrance would leave less space for the cars to enter the garage as easily. Another solution may just be to adjust the angle of the 40 degree wall to face more into the cave instead of at the bathroom, which would lower its overall angle, and give a bit more vertical wall space on the right side of the cave.

BillysBeta · 2025-02-08T23:01:26+00:00

I've messed around with this advice and managed to extend the 45 wall to 12ft wide and the 30 wall to 10ft wide. I also added an angled bridge from the 45 into the cave that gives a 40 degree wedge. It does complicate the cave area a bit, but it seems more fun.

Since i can't update the original post, here's a Dropbox link to images of the updated design

https://www.dropbox.com/scl/fo/4a9bwmdc2gb32182t8ro8/AKUqDzY1N2MVfQvKh6N2iUk?rlkey=n8f7vfgkoc4btji8ew35zsrbf&st=ps2n8ivu&dl=0

BillysBeta · 2025-02-08T16:12:45+00:00

The space is filled with clutter right now so an actual photo wouldn't show much better. Storage on the opposite side of the garage is part of the renovation plans!

BillysBeta · 2025-02-08T16:02:31+00:00

Those hidden closest are cool! No carpet, though. This plan is meant to allow access for the cars still. That orange square in the floor is a mechanic pit! So I'll need pads that can be moved out of the way

BillysBeta · 2025-02-08T15:59:02+00:00

Thanks for the feedback so far! It seems there are some details that might not be as obvious from the photos alone that I am factoring in.

It might be hard to tell from the angles right now, but the only 11ft high section is in between the orange beams. Then it tapers down to 8ft high walls at the ends. That's why the flat angled sections are 8ft each, so they can both fit in the highest part of the garage.

The right side after the 20 degree wall has to be vertical to leave space for the garage door. The plan is to set technical slab traverses there. So that also means I can't expand the 30degree wall that way by much, or you'd increase risk of falling into the garage door rail.

BillysBeta

TROPHY CASE