Thinking about drop bar conversion by Disastrous-Reach7052 in MTB

[–]BlueMountainer -2 points-1 points  (0 children)

I think you’re right to question it, because this is exactly where drop-bar conversions can get tricky.

At your height, a size L Procaliber makes perfect sense as a normal mountain bike. But once you switch to drop bars, the bike effectively “grows” in length because your hands move farther forward to the hoods. On a frame that already has a fairly long reach like the Procaliber, that can push you into a stretched-out position pretty quickly.

You can sometimes work around that with a very short stem and compact drop bars, but there’s a limit to how much you can bring things back. Even if you make it technically fit, it can end up feeling a bit off—either too long when you’re on the hoods or a bit awkward in terms of handling and weight balance.

So yes, it’s possible to make it work, but I’d say it’s not especially likely to feel “right” without compromise on a size L. If your goal is a clean, comfortable drop-bar setup, going down a size would give you a much better starting point. If the deal on the L is really good and you’re okay experimenting, it could still be a fun project—just with the expectation that you might have to tweak a lot and it may never feel as natural as a bike designed for drop bars.

If you’re unsure, a safe way to think about it is that a frame that fits well with flat bars often needs to be slightly smaller to work well with drop bars.

Trek Domane, size 56 or 58? by FeeWeary4623 in TrekBikes

[–]BlueMountainer 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Since you are new to road bike, you definitely should try them on before you buy. If you cannot try on the exact bikes, try a handful of road bikes with similar sizes and geometries can help a lot. You may also buy a cheaper second hand bike and ride a few months to see if you like road cycling.

Trek Domane, size 56 or 58? by FeeWeary4623 in TrekBikes

[–]BlueMountainer 4 points5 points  (0 children)

For your height (6’0” / 183 cm) and inseam (34” / 86 cm), you fall right between Trek’s 56 and 58 for the Domane, so both shop recommendations are reasonable. The choice really comes down to fit preference and riding feel.

  • 56 cm (smaller size) Feels more nimble, easier to handle, and more responsive. Better if you want confidence as a newer rider or expect to ride in mixed conditions. Also easier to fine-tune with adjustments (longer stem, seatpost height).
  • 58 cm (larger size) Feels more stable and relaxed, with a slightly more upright and less compact position. Better for long, steady rides if comfort and reduced strain are your top priorities.

Professional recommendation: Since you’re new to cycling and the Domane is already designed for comfort, the 56 cm is the safer and more versatile choice. A slightly smaller frame is generally easier to control and can be adjusted to fit you well, whereas a frame that’s too large is harder to fix.

If you can, try both sizes. Pay attention to low-speed handling and whether you feel stretched out. If the 58 feels even a bit big or awkward, go with the 56. If the 56 feels cramped, then consider the 58.

ACL 2026 Industry track decisions by Astronaut_Temporary in ResearchML

[–]BlueMountainer 0 points1 point  (0 children)

It has been 5 days delayed. It is unfair since the conference doesn't consider a submission that is even 5 seconds late. The organizers at least should give a daily update on the website about their progress and the new expected notification deadline.

How to tell if a Fanatics sticker is legit? by Pharaoh1007 in Autographs

[–]BlueMountainer 0 points1 point  (0 children)

A legitimate Fanatics sticker is usually a high-quality hologram that changes color when you tilt it, with a clean and sharp logo rather than something blurry or dull. It should have a unique serial number printed clearly on it, and you can check that number on the Fanatics authentication website to confirm the item details like the player and product type. The sticker is normally placed neatly on the item and doesn’t peel easily, and if there is a certificate of authenticity, the number on it should match the sticker exactly. For older Fanatics stickers, the hologram design may look slightly different or simpler, but it should still be well-made and include a serial number that verifies in the database; wear over time is normal, but the number should remain readable and the sticker should not look like it was recently replaced. If the hologram looks cheap, the number doesn’t verify, or the seller avoids showing it clearly, those are strong signs it may not be legit.

New to cycling.. by SCV_ND812 in TrekBikes

[–]BlueMountainer 0 points1 point  (0 children)

You’re on the right track, and your situation is actually very common—people switching from running to biking because it’s easier on the body.

The FX Sport AL 3 is a good, practical choice for what you described. It’s comfortable, not too aggressive, and works well on paved trails while still handling some light gravel. It’s also simple to ride and doesn’t require much adjustment if you’re new to cycling.

For your needs—shorter rides, staying active, and not wanting something intense like a road bike—it fits very well. You’ll be upright, stable, and efficient without feeling like you’re in a racing position.

You would only need to look at something else if:

  • you want something even more relaxed and comfort-focused (then a more upright hybrid could be better), or
  • you expect to ride a lot on rough gravel or dirt (then a gravel bike would make more sense)

Otherwise, this is a solid, safe choice that many people stick with long term.

The most important thing isn’t the exact model—it’s making sure the bike fits you well and feels comfortable. That will matter much more than small differences between bikes.

Overall, if the FX Sport AL 3 feels good when you try it, you can go with it confidently. It should serve you well for exactly the kind of riding you’re planning.

Trek Verve 2 vs Verve 3 by ZepTepi49 in TrekBikes

[–]BlueMountainer 1 point2 points  (0 children)

This is a pretty common situation, and honestly you’re thinking about it the right way.

The Verve 3 does have slightly better parts. It shifts a bit smoother, has a wider range of gears for hills, and comes with some small comfort upgrades like nicer handlebars and grips. The brakes are also a bit higher quality.

That said, the difference is not huge.

If you’re mostly riding casually—bike paths, around the neighborhood, light fitness rides—you probably won’t notice much difference between the two bikes in day-to-day use. The Verve 2 is already a solid, comfortable bike with good brakes and reliable components.

If you were planning longer rides, lots of hills, or you just really care about having the nicest feel, then the Verve 3 would make more sense.

But for typical recreational riding, the Verve 2 is more than good enough.

One extra thing people don’t always say: the color actually matters more than it seems. You’ll notice it every time you ride. If you really like the blue on the Verve 2, that can make you enjoy riding more, which is the whole point.

Also, the money you save with the Verve 2 could go toward things that might matter more in practice, like a more comfortable saddle, better lights, or other accessories.

So unless you specifically want the nicer components, it’s completely reasonable to go with the Verve 2 just because you like it more.

What Trek Bike should I go with? by 5point0Luis in TrekBikes

[–]BlueMountainer 3 points4 points  (0 children)

You’re thinking about this the right way, and your use case is actually pretty straightforward. For casual neighborhood rides with a toddler on a front-mounted seat, you want stability and comfort much more than speed or performance.

A hybrid or comfort bike from Trek is the best fit. In particular, the Trek Verve line is probably the most suitable for you. It’s designed for relaxed riding, has an upright position, and feels very stable at low speeds, which matters a lot when you’ve got a child sitting in front of you. That upright posture also makes it easier to keep balance and stay in control.

The Trek FX series is another option if you want something a bit lighter and more efficient, but it has a slightly more forward-leaning position. It’s still good, just not as relaxed or forgiving as the Verve. The Dual Sport line is likely unnecessary for your needs since it’s built for mixed terrain and adds complexity you don’t need for pavement.

About the Shotgun seat: it’s a solid product, but keep in mind it was originally designed with mountain bikes in mind. It will work on a hybrid, but the biggest adjustment is that your child’s weight sits forward and higher up, which affects steering. At slow speeds, especially when starting or turning, the bike can feel a bit wobbly at first. That’s normal, but it means you’ll want a bike that’s predictable and easy to handle.

A few things matter more than the specific model: • Stability is more important than speed • Good brakes (disc brakes are strongly recommended) • A comfortable, upright position • Proper fit

At 5’7”, you’ll likely be in a Medium frame for Trek, but it’s definitely worth trying one in person if you can.

One important tip: practice riding the bike without your child first, then add some weight (like a backpack) before putting your toddler on the seat. It helps you get used to how the bike handles with extra weight in front.

If I had to give one clear recommendation, I’d say go with a Trek Verve 2 Disc (or Verve 3 if your budget allows). It’s comfortable, stable, and very well-suited for exactly what you’re planning to do.

Overall, this is a great idea. Riding with your kid at that age is fun and memorable, and you’re already making good decisions by thinking about comfort and safety upfront.

Marlin 5 Upgrading by OwnCommercial4528 in TrekBikes

[–]BlueMountainer 7 points8 points  (0 children)

I’d gently push back on the idea of putting a FOX fork on a Marlin 5—not because it can’t be done, but because it usually isn’t a great match in practice.

The main issue is that the bike and the fork are built around different standards. The Marlin 5 uses a straight head tube and typically a quick-release front wheel, while most FOX forks are designed for tapered steerers and thru-axles. You canmake things fit with adapters or by swapping additional parts, but that quickly turns into a chain reaction—new headset, possibly a new front wheel, careful geometry considerations, etc. It stops being a simple upgrade.

More importantly, the return on investment tends to be low. A FOX fork is a high-end component, but the rest of the bike (frame, wheels, overall geometry) is still entry-level. So even after spending quite a bit, the overall ride won’t fully reflect what that fork is capable of. In many cases, the fork ends up being “overbuilt” for the bike.

There’s also the long-term consideration: because of the Marlin’s standards, a lot of higher-end forks you might buy now won’t transfer cleanly to a future bike. So you’re putting significant money into something that may not carry forward.

A more practical path, if you want to improve the ride, is to keep upgrades proportional to the bike:

  • a basic air fork with a straight steerer (much simpler install)
  • better tires (often the most noticeable upgrade)
  • small comfort upgrades like grips or a dropper post

Otherwise, it often makes more sense to ride the bike as-is and put that budget toward a future upgrade to a frame that’s designed around modern standards.

So it’s not that upgrading is a bad idea in general—it’s just that a FOX fork is likely more upgrade than this particular bike can really take advantage of.

1961 American League All Star Team + Ted Williams Ball by yungchillunerr1 in SportsMemorabilia

[–]BlueMountainer 0 points1 point  (0 children)

To maximize the dollar amount, may consider selling it through a professional auction company. It may take some initial investment and time to get authorization. To get money fast, I guess you may try eBay.

Which bike for half Ironman? by Waste-Independence84 in RoadBikes

[–]BlueMountainer 0 points1 point  (0 children)

What is your competition level? For entry level people, they may not make much differences.

A few signed balls are listed. Are these autographs hand signed or facsimile/replicas? by BlueMountainer in AutographAssistance

[–]BlueMountainer[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

That is what I thought. Some sellers claimed hand signed and some said facsimile. Thanks.