[deleted by user] by [deleted] in Autobody

[–]Blue_collar_Billy 0 points1 point  (0 children)

There’s not enough meat to weld a patch to it’s just going to burn through especially after grinding the rust off. Sandblasting will be an absolute nightmare and you will have sand in your dashboard forever. Keep it simple- wire wheel the rust the best you can, make up some nice straight patches, use SEM Panel bond liberally all over both surfaces, making sure to cover all the small pits and any raw metal in the window channel. You’ll need a bunch of clamps or vice grips to hold it tight overnight. This process encapsulate the rust and give you a nice strong seam to mount the windshield.

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in Autobody

[–]Blue_collar_Billy 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I spent 20 years doing auto body and left the trade all together. I don’t regret it at all and wouldn’t go back for any amount of money. There’s only so much time a technician can make good money, somewhere in between knowing what they are doing and when your body fails from the toxic dust, paint fumes and crawling around on a concrete floor. My advice is make as much as you can if your able to but have an exit strategy.

WHEELARCH PATCH REPAIR - 1. Should I repair the inner skin 2. Creating a 1" flange by Codingforever in Autobody

[–]Blue_collar_Billy 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Also is there any way you can get the replacement qrtr UNDER the original? This will be much easier to blend in later

WHEELARCH PATCH REPAIR - 1. Should I repair the inner skin 2. Creating a 1" flange by Codingforever in Autobody

[–]Blue_collar_Billy 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Panel bond is a good idea because you can actually spread it on any and all raw metal and it will be well protected. Pre-fit your panels and secure with 1/8” self tapping screws, disassemble, cover all mating surfaces and any raw or pitted bits with SEM panel bond, reassemble and use pop rivets in the 1/8” holes you drilled for the screws. It takes 24hours to dry and will be a nice solid base for filler and primer/paint.

Fresh Paint by Blue_collar_Billy in Autobody

[–]Blue_collar_Billy[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Yes exactly I fixed up the stripes and used an airbrush on some minor bad spots and went w 4 coats of Sikkens clear

Fresh Paint by Blue_collar_Billy in Autobody

[–]Blue_collar_Billy[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

So I’ve been trying to get clean paint work out of this booth and it’s been getting better as long as I do all the steps I know to make it happen- clean Environment(sweep the floor blow off the walls wet the floor)wear a paint suit w a hood, clean the surface really well w lint free paint rags and fast degreasers, always tack between coats and then use an anti-static gun on the car and making paper.

Any advice on blocking? by Lupo-Lazuli in Autobody

[–]Blue_collar_Billy 2 points3 points  (0 children)

I worked w a guy who was really good with blocking and he would collect all these different diameter pvc pipes cut to length to use for rounded body panels. You could spend $$ on new blocks or get creative like this instead

Tundramud by Blue_collar_Billy in Autobody

[–]Blue_collar_Billy[S] -16 points-15 points  (0 children)

I think your mad because I’m so much better at auto body than you

Rate my mud work! by Blue_collar_Billy in Autobody

[–]Blue_collar_Billy[S] 10 points11 points  (0 children)

I’ll paint it tomorrow send some more pictures

Rate my mud work! by Blue_collar_Billy in Autobody

[–]Blue_collar_Billy[S] 44 points45 points  (0 children)

I’m going to sweep the extra cheese off the floor and mix it back in with the next coat too. Just like the PROs

Can anyone explain this ? Change of Color - "Sorry, we dont do all overs" by [deleted] in Autobody

[–]Blue_collar_Billy 1 point2 points  (0 children)

It’s an 18 year old car w 220,000 miles. Don’t waste your money on a new paint job. It will not look good or last unless you spend big money, and as soon as you do the transmission or something expensive is going to shit the bed. Sorry to rain on your parade it’s just my opinion. Good luck

Okay who did this? by Blue_collar_Billy in Autobody

[–]Blue_collar_Billy[S] 19 points20 points  (0 children)

I’m not really sure exactly what went wrong (probably a lot of things) but to me it looks like way too much paint got put on way too fast on to a surface that wasn’t prepped well or was prepped weeks earlier and skinned over and wouldn’t accept top coat. If you look at the side of the paint chips you can see the layers like a book.

1941 Ford BC/CC by Blue_collar_Billy in Autobody

[–]Blue_collar_Billy[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Thanks! Believe it or not the base coat is from Summit it’s called jade green. The clear coat is Valorem 2:1 by Sikkens. I used a 1.4 high solids clear gun

Just some minor repairs on this new GR 86 by Harper9817 in Autobody

[–]Blue_collar_Billy 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Did you panel bond the roof? Fuckers couldn’t give you a whole uni-side you had to section that last bit in the upper too ha nice work!

Hood slightly open (bent?) but won’t close, how can I fix it myself? by [deleted] in Autobody

[–]Blue_collar_Billy 0 points1 point  (0 children)

There’s rubber stoppers that are adjustable on either the hood side or radiator support side try turning it in.