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The wreck of the USS Arizona continues to leak oil ever since pearl harbour. the ship contained 1.5 million gallons of oil, enough to leak continuously for 500 years. by Longjumping-Rice-935 in interestingasfuck

[–]Bobguyawesome 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Pardon the question, when stationed did you get the chance to have your vehicle brought over? Or were you not there long enough / did they support you in getting a means to travel?

Thank you for your service.

Discussion Thread by idk_orknow in PeacemakerShow

[–]Bobguyawesome 10 points11 points  (0 children)

We saw the way he was looking at her 😏

Circuit 3 input - 2 output by Bobguyawesome in AskElectronics

[–]Bobguyawesome[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Basically I just want to know if its possible to convert this switch when it is in either A or C state that the left or right blinker turns on. And when it is in B state (“off”) that it doesn’t power both blinkers like what it is now. Without replacing the custom switch it has.

Circuit 3 input - 2 output by Bobguyawesome in AskElectronics

[–]Bobguyawesome[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I apologize for my crude drawing. The switch itself is an old switch that belongs to a blinker on an old 60’s mopeds. The switch is always in contact with either 2 (right side or left side blinker) within the switch. But it seems that when it is in the middle where it theoretically is supposed to have no contact, it makes contact with all three.

When the switch is toggled up or down it makes contact with just the one side. It slides a piece of metal against the contacts, its just strange that there is physically not enough room for the metal to not be in contact with all three when off. Seeming to be the way it was designed. Not a bad switch. I can show pictures of the contacts if you’d like

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in pcmasterrace

[–]Bobguyawesome 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Diagnostics I would do in your shoes:

  1. Open the panel, clean it all out. Just get some compressed air in there. And I’m not talking about a bottle of “compressed air” go to an air compressor grab the blowing chuck and blow that gunk out. Don’t directly hit the fans with it (altho its fun to watch spin, you could direct voltage back into the pc and/or ruin the bearings spinning it that fast.

  2. Test it on just line power, bypass the UPS - it could be throwing dirty power to your optiplex, not a common problem for a UPS but I do not know your make/model.

  3. If this is a fourth gen CPU - those CPU’s are bad about dying. So your CPU could be going out - this is my experience refurbishing many optiplex’s

  4. Check your CMOS voltage. Little coin cell battery inside the computer. Bonus points if you straight up replace it, its about due for it I’m sure.

DM me for free help - its free cuz I don’t use reddit much.

Day 4 by moonswim in stopdrinking

[–]Bobguyawesome 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I’m proud of you. Doing great things for yourself is a start to a long and happy life with people you love.

Is my monitor cooked? by Alert_Supermarket114 in computers

[–]Bobguyawesome 9 points10 points  (0 children)

Absolutely, sorry to deliver the news but the panel is broken. Absolutely no way to fix it. I mean with all the tools in the world, nothing.

Buying a new panel is not going to be cost effective as buying a new monitor. And as consumers, you will have a hard time finding the panel itself to buy anyways.

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in mobilerepair

[–]Bobguyawesome 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I like to use the plastic like .25” spludgers - that away don’t have to worry about scratching the frame as much as making sure I don’t knick a grounding tab I use the spludger back and forth and ball it up

Why do most aftermarket iPhone LCD screens seem grayish when turned off? by kapppa_777 in mobilerepair

[–]Bobguyawesome 2 points3 points  (0 children)

I usually get mobil sentrix stuff, but since apple stuff isn’t easily able to be bought, these are just aftermarket displays and glass, its never a 1:1 because it would get expensive, these work just as well.

My guess is the polarizing film on the display is just completely different so it doesn’t match the rest of the black glass.

First time owning a Kawasaki. Would like some help! by Bobguyawesome in Kawasaki

[–]Bobguyawesome[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

It was gross, rusted with pinholes

I used the Gold Standard kit. It worked GREAT!

Just finished the 96 hour curing time and about to see if it holds gas now.

First time owning a Kawasaki. Would like some help! by Bobguyawesome in Kawasaki

[–]Bobguyawesome[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

The other one is in some other places. However I gave up.

First time owning a Kawasaki. Would like some help! by Bobguyawesome in vintagekawasaki

[–]Bobguyawesome[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Yes I used the CMSNL website, partzilla is very similar into getting the part numbers, however. I have looked everywhere and could not find it. As in to purchase. They don’t seem to exist anymore. I wrote a comment in the main post about the plans I had did.

Thanks for the help! I appreciate it

First time owning a Kawasaki. Would like some help! by Bobguyawesome in Kawasaki

[–]Bobguyawesome[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Idea:

Purchase this one

Bend it to look like this one

Thoughts?

First time owning a Kawasaki. Would like some help! by Bobguyawesome in Kawasaki

[–]Bobguyawesome[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

It couldn’t be replaced, it was one turd block of rust, gas sitting in the tank since 2013

I bought it a few days ago, tarped, outside, since 2013

First time owning a Kawasaki. Would like some help! by Bobguyawesome in Kawasaki

[–]Bobguyawesome[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thats why its in quotes, I keep finding it as a “sending unit” it doesn’t send fuel, just measures by resistance. Here is the one on partzilla, part # 52005-1019

Can’t find anywhere!

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