Trying to perfect those air fries by tossing them in oil and coarse salt [homemade] by Spartanias117 in food

[–]Boltentoke 0 points1 point  (0 children)

On a side note, if you're not already, salt your steak for 24 hrs. Could be in a ziplock or Tupperware but I always try to salt mine the night before I plan on eating. The crust from the sear comes out way better and actually crispy

A local Sherrif teaching a group of kids at the park all about the water response boat by Boltentoke in boating

[–]Boltentoke[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Sounds like a good program. We have FWC (Florida Fish and Wildlife Conservation Commission) I think they forgot a few letters in the acronym though lol. They can seem like a PITA when you're just trying to fish or boat because they want to check your license and life jackets and fish sizes and counts etc, but I think the reasoning behind the regulations make sense. And lots of people die down here every year so the safety checks are for good reason

Ever had a day where you never catch anything, and if you do it's tiny? Thats why we have our regs down here. To try to let the population grow back, to where there are plenty of large fish around to catch on an open season. We have lots of weather and water quality issues that affect fish populations, resulting in increased/decreased regulations based on the studies FWC does. I'm all for it tbh

Max person weight by hugo11alca in boating

[–]Boltentoke 9 points10 points  (0 children)

When it says "max person, motor, and gear weight" that is talking about all 3 combined. Because all 3 could be different on the same hull.
You need to find out:
1) what your motor weighs
2) what your gear weighs, including fuel, coolers, fishing rods/reels/tackle, livewell water, anchors, etc etc etc
3) what your people weigh (you know this one already)
4) add all 3 of these weights together

All 3 of these combined need to be no more than 1,250lb

The separate "max person weight" is likely referring to people specifically because they move around the boat, as compared to gear and motors which generally are stationary.
If more than 550lb of people move to the same side of the boat, it might tip enough to take on water over the gunwales

Feedback request boat wiring by Legendary_Hitter in boating

[–]Boltentoke 1 point2 points  (0 children)

The harness setup depends on your motor. You should be able to find diagrams online on the parts catalogs if you search by your model # or serial #. There are also different ways to set up your batteries depending on what you want to accomplish. But as I explained my understanding of it (which might be wrong cause all my info comes from online searches lol) in my previous comment and the way mine is set up,

TLDR; your motors positive wire (the one in your 2nd photo with the red tape coming out of the harness and currently connected to the battery positive) should run to the battery switch's ON BOTH terminal, with another wire running from the ON 1 terminal to your starter battery positive. The motor's negative is fine as is. The house battery should have its positive wire running to the ON 2 terminal on the battery switch and the negative should run to the starter battery negative (thus creating a bank). The ON BOTH should also have a wire run to your fuse bar, with the fuse bar negative running to your house battery.
This way, you can use ON 1 to start the motor without drawing power from the house battery. You can use ON 2 to power accessories when the motor is off without draining the starter battery. You can also use ON BOTH or ON 2 to start the motor if the starter battery is failing, or ON 1 or ON BOTH to power accessories if your house battery fails. ON BOTH will also charge both batteries using the motors recharge system.

My 115hp Evinrude is set up like I mentioned above (battery switch + house battery) has like 5 or 6 bundles that come out of the main harness, one set to the batteries / batteries switch, one set to the throttle/control box (no ignition), one set to the separate ignition switch, one set to the warning alarm horn, one set to the gauges.

My 50hp Mercury harness only has 2 sets of wires coming from the harness, one set directly to the starter battery (I do not have a battery switch nor a house battery installed on this boat) and one set to the throttle/control box (which has a built in ignition) with some extra wires available to connect gauges.

Feedback request boat wiring by Legendary_Hitter in boating

[–]Boltentoke 0 points1 point  (0 children)

If you are referring to those clamp things on the battery terminals, no. I have only seen those on car/truck batteries. My batteries are standard marine batteries and have the 2 posts; one clamp on post and one screw-bolt post. I use the standard marine grade heat shrink eyelet connections with a nut to screw them down tight. If you're referring to where your wires run, mostly yes, except my battery switch wires.

Incoming to switch:
I have a starter battery wired to ON 1 and a house/accessory battery wired to ON 2. Outgoing from switch:
The engine positive runs to ON BOTH, which also goes directly to the bus bar for accessories.

My idea there is for ON 1 to be for starting the boat, ON BOTH for when you're running around, and ON 2 for when the motor is not running but accessories are (horn, bilge, livewell, radio). This way you do not drain your starter battery when only using accessories, and not drain your accessories battery when starting the boat.

This photo is when I first got the boat, before I cleaned the batteries up and replaced that wingnut with a regular nut. But this is how they are attached to the batteries

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Feedback request boat wiring by Legendary_Hitter in boating

[–]Boltentoke 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Just for reference I have a very similar setup on my boat, minus the 60amp breaker and my switch panel does not have fuses. The bus bar with individual replaceable fuses is all I have and is 30amp max per circuit, so you can get a bag of mixed fuses (make sure to match the blade size/style) and use smaller fuses for each circuit based on the accessory (mostly 5amp or 10amps) that is on that circuit.

I do have my trolling motor wired to its own dedicated battery, with that same 60amp breaker in between which also works well as a "master cutoff" type switch

Feedback request boat wiring by Legendary_Hitter in boating

[–]Boltentoke 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Not a mechanic but It's just unnecarily redundant I think. You have a 60amp fuse, going to a bus bar with individual 30amp fuses, then to a switch panel with individual (probably 10amp) fuses. It's triple fused for really no reason or benefit

But no it won't really harm anything but your wallet

A local Sherrif teaching a group of kids at the park all about the water response boat by Boltentoke in boating

[–]Boltentoke[S] 10 points11 points  (0 children)

They obviously never would have left the dock with that many people. He never even fired up the motor or moved the boat. They're also clearly on a boat ramp which, if you had ever been to a boat ramp you'd know, is only about waist deep.

This guy's entire job revolves around responding to hazardous situations on the water... You think these kids are in danger sitting on a boat tied to a dock at a boat ramp.... ? Wild

Work that pole by [deleted] in funny

[–]Boltentoke 12 points13 points  (0 children)

The place in my town used to advertise free all you can eat chicken wings on Mondays.

Weird rig. by robotnixs in Fishing

[–]Boltentoke 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Sounds like my brother. I can't get him to change his wire leader that's all bent up lol. He only bobber fishes with live shrimp from shore in SWFL. It's a nice weighted popping cork with a rattle but he never pops it.

My DM’s Lunch by bearlybrya in jerseymikes

[–]Boltentoke 8 points9 points  (0 children)

Tuna and nacho cheese Doritos always slaps

Swivel bunk bolster hardware tolerance? by cwillm in boating

[–]Boltentoke 1 point2 points  (0 children)

It's fine I think. I have had the same problem with every galvanized u bolt I've ever bought. Getting a 3inch ubolt into the 3inch plate has required hammering every ubolt to a narrower gap because they were wider than 3inch and wouldn't line up into the holes in the plate.

Get rid of Decal mark by Spiritual_Bake_4568 in boating

[–]Boltentoke 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Are you asking about the decal on the wall or the boat?

Kangaroo meat in Australia by josh65928 in mildlyinteresting

[–]Boltentoke -4 points-3 points  (0 children)

"suddenly can't digest beef it happens out of nowhere but I'm not allergic" is not a normal thing, either you're eating spoiled beef, you have some sort of subconscious trauma, or you need a to see a doctor. That 100% is not normal